VFSV6FORME
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2016
- Messages
- 2,603
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- Age
- 74
- Location
- Brisbane
- Members Ride
- WN Caprice V 6.0L, VE Anniversity V6 Series 1
VF SV6 HUD
After doing some digging around that the wiring harness was different from a MY15 SV6 Storm to a MY15 Redline and considering the cost of replacing the top trim plus the maid body of the dash plus buying the Heads up display projector plus a windscreen plus the head light Switch/hud unit plus the trim that holds the switch and other bits and pieces that were needed for a factory HUD install but after investigating and seeing the wiring harness had a missing plug for the HUD switch on the SV6 I decided to give this a miss.
Now after looking at all the aftermarket HUD I noticed that just about all of them if not all except for one the Echoman EM05 were bright enough and good enough (do a youtube on them) to be used during the day without to use of that ugly film that you use and stick it on your windscreen so you can clearly see the data on the windscreen during the day.
The Echoman EM05 has a sensor that detects a bright day and by this it brighten the LCD up as the day is brighter and dulls the LCD as the day goes into night.
Upon testing I noticed that this sensor was not working at 100% of its potential due to the positioning of the unit so what I did was dismantled the LCD and reversed positioned the sensor aiming high and out the windscreen.
Whilst the LCD was in pieces I studied how can I turn this unit off and on plus be able to control its menu by using the original Factory Holden HUD display control unit that I had to purchase. (I love my decade Box that I built at tech when I was 17 years old)
After about 3 days of testing and breaking tracks and resoldering connection on the LCD aftermarket HUD I was able once connected to the ODB2 port of the sv6 for testing purposes only to get everything to work YEAH!!!!!!!!!! So after the testing was finished Its install time and this is where the Nightmare Started. Arggghhhhhh F@#$%^&*(K, Sh@!#$%T. See the Factory HUD switch is long, I purchased the Redline trim so it could fit in it as it did, the 5 pins line up perfect on the sv6 dash panel but I FORGOT ABOUT THE STREERING LOCK BEING IN THE WAY and not allowing the redline trim with the switch to fit in.
Right I don’t give up as that not me so its back to the drawing board so I came up with the idea that if I can cut the last switch off that is used by the redlines for positioning the image on the screen where I used this for the menu up and down I might get away with it. So Off goes the switch on the left had side (cut it off) (It uses uses two mini chassis switches) and I used only the remaining rotary switch for all.
So here I go again ripping the Heads up Display switch apart again (interesting how the factory standard system works each switching position on that rotary switch has a bank of chassis resistors and each time you turn the knob clockwise it jumps to a resistor of higher value).
So the rotary switch now is my second attempt of attacking it for this project. If turned fully to the left on its final click the Echoman EM05 SWITCHES OFF. And turning it clockwise turns it back on then press the button in the middle activate the menu or I can use the radio freq supplied control unit up or down with OK in the middle (The unit is a bit bigger that your thumb) to activate and control the Echoman HUD unit.
The next job. The problem?
It seems that the Factory trim lower panel of the redline is a no go as hacking it to bits will end up being as mess so I decide to do the easy way out and that is Hack the original SV6 trim to accommodate the larger (but cut short) Redline switch and that was not the only problem as the Redline switch after I shortened it it was ok but had another problem as the switch was 3 mm wider at the middle point than what the SV6 switch was.
I.took my time (two days) and was able to do what I needed so after this it was testing time again plugging into the OBD2 port, measured with the steel ruler and all is ok and the best part about this is the only connection my after market HUD has with the SV6 is the OBD2 port and the modified Redline switch.
The Redline HOOD fitted on the SV6 perfect, The BEZEL after hacking anything below the top of the dash the original dash STAYS untouched so I can remove all if the Echoman failed and put the original HOOD back on and nobody would notice a thing as The Echman has only the data cable going to the OBD2 port and my added cable going straight to the Modified Factory shortened Redline switch with one less switch on the end of it.
The Echoman ripped apart for modifications.
Photo shows the standard SV6 switch and the redline full switch
The redline swtch about to be modified. Look at the cut redline fascia.
All modifications done and ready for re assembly.
Switch modified
My decade box can simulate resistances from 1 ohm to 20 million ohms and can be verified with a multi meter. Its reasonably accurate as If I select 8250 Ohms the multi meter will show 8245 or 8255 ohms or around that. (8.2K ohms)
The heads up sitting on its BEZEL and the tray inside it. It was important to glue the flat black tray to the bezel so the angles would be correct.. All is velpro'd. The HOOD is clicked into position by its factory pins. Notice the moved sensor looking out the screen to detect bright light (that little white thing looking forward)
Finished Job. Redline owners will pick the difference as one switch is missing. Pity you know it was better the way I had it before but tough titties as it would not fit in with that steering key lock in the way.
A closer look.
A closer look at the factory modified switch.
The heads up running. Photo taken a little high. The trick with these Heads up displays is to hit the windscreen close to 90 degrees so where you sit you will see little double vision.
Showing volts.
Showing KM Traveled on a single ignition turned on.
After doing some digging around that the wiring harness was different from a MY15 SV6 Storm to a MY15 Redline and considering the cost of replacing the top trim plus the maid body of the dash plus buying the Heads up display projector plus a windscreen plus the head light Switch/hud unit plus the trim that holds the switch and other bits and pieces that were needed for a factory HUD install but after investigating and seeing the wiring harness had a missing plug for the HUD switch on the SV6 I decided to give this a miss.
Now after looking at all the aftermarket HUD I noticed that just about all of them if not all except for one the Echoman EM05 were bright enough and good enough (do a youtube on them) to be used during the day without to use of that ugly film that you use and stick it on your windscreen so you can clearly see the data on the windscreen during the day.
The Echoman EM05 has a sensor that detects a bright day and by this it brighten the LCD up as the day is brighter and dulls the LCD as the day goes into night.
Upon testing I noticed that this sensor was not working at 100% of its potential due to the positioning of the unit so what I did was dismantled the LCD and reversed positioned the sensor aiming high and out the windscreen.
Whilst the LCD was in pieces I studied how can I turn this unit off and on plus be able to control its menu by using the original Factory Holden HUD display control unit that I had to purchase. (I love my decade Box that I built at tech when I was 17 years old)
After about 3 days of testing and breaking tracks and resoldering connection on the LCD aftermarket HUD I was able once connected to the ODB2 port of the sv6 for testing purposes only to get everything to work YEAH!!!!!!!!!! So after the testing was finished Its install time and this is where the Nightmare Started. Arggghhhhhh F@#$%^&*(K, Sh@!#$%T. See the Factory HUD switch is long, I purchased the Redline trim so it could fit in it as it did, the 5 pins line up perfect on the sv6 dash panel but I FORGOT ABOUT THE STREERING LOCK BEING IN THE WAY and not allowing the redline trim with the switch to fit in.
Right I don’t give up as that not me so its back to the drawing board so I came up with the idea that if I can cut the last switch off that is used by the redlines for positioning the image on the screen where I used this for the menu up and down I might get away with it. So Off goes the switch on the left had side (cut it off) (It uses uses two mini chassis switches) and I used only the remaining rotary switch for all.
So here I go again ripping the Heads up Display switch apart again (interesting how the factory standard system works each switching position on that rotary switch has a bank of chassis resistors and each time you turn the knob clockwise it jumps to a resistor of higher value).
So the rotary switch now is my second attempt of attacking it for this project. If turned fully to the left on its final click the Echoman EM05 SWITCHES OFF. And turning it clockwise turns it back on then press the button in the middle activate the menu or I can use the radio freq supplied control unit up or down with OK in the middle (The unit is a bit bigger that your thumb) to activate and control the Echoman HUD unit.
The next job. The problem?
It seems that the Factory trim lower panel of the redline is a no go as hacking it to bits will end up being as mess so I decide to do the easy way out and that is Hack the original SV6 trim to accommodate the larger (but cut short) Redline switch and that was not the only problem as the Redline switch after I shortened it it was ok but had another problem as the switch was 3 mm wider at the middle point than what the SV6 switch was.
I.took my time (two days) and was able to do what I needed so after this it was testing time again plugging into the OBD2 port, measured with the steel ruler and all is ok and the best part about this is the only connection my after market HUD has with the SV6 is the OBD2 port and the modified Redline switch.
The Redline HOOD fitted on the SV6 perfect, The BEZEL after hacking anything below the top of the dash the original dash STAYS untouched so I can remove all if the Echoman failed and put the original HOOD back on and nobody would notice a thing as The Echman has only the data cable going to the OBD2 port and my added cable going straight to the Modified Factory shortened Redline switch with one less switch on the end of it.
The Echoman ripped apart for modifications.
Photo shows the standard SV6 switch and the redline full switch
The redline swtch about to be modified. Look at the cut redline fascia.
All modifications done and ready for re assembly.
Switch modified
My decade box can simulate resistances from 1 ohm to 20 million ohms and can be verified with a multi meter. Its reasonably accurate as If I select 8250 Ohms the multi meter will show 8245 or 8255 ohms or around that. (8.2K ohms)
The heads up sitting on its BEZEL and the tray inside it. It was important to glue the flat black tray to the bezel so the angles would be correct.. All is velpro'd. The HOOD is clicked into position by its factory pins. Notice the moved sensor looking out the screen to detect bright light (that little white thing looking forward)
Finished Job. Redline owners will pick the difference as one switch is missing. Pity you know it was better the way I had it before but tough titties as it would not fit in with that steering key lock in the way.
A closer look.
A closer look at the factory modified switch.
The heads up running. Photo taken a little high. The trick with these Heads up displays is to hit the windscreen close to 90 degrees so where you sit you will see little double vision.
Showing volts.
Showing KM Traveled on a single ignition turned on.
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