My VZ R8 Clubby build

[Ddridan]

Just thought I'd show my VZ R8 build to you all, after seeing some damn nice cars on here.
I picked up my clubby in August 2015 in Melbourne, then drove it back to Darwin in 4 days. when I bought it was cammed, shaved heads and exhaust, making a touch over 300rwkw.
after enjoying it for a few months I noticed a slight oil leak from the sump gasket and decided to pull the engine out and not put it back in until its mental. Basically what I have so far is:
-LQ9 Cast iron block
-Scat 4340 forged crank (4.00")
-Scat 4340 forged H-Beam rods (ARP2000 rod bolts)
-SRP pro forged pistons (4.030")
-ARP main studs
-Custom grind Comp camshaft
-double row timing chain
-high volume Melling oil pump
-LS3/L92 heads
-Morel tie-bar lifters
-Manley dual valve springs
-Improved Racing sump baffle and oil cooler adapter

That's the main parts of it, the short block was built by Racetec Industries in Yatala QLD, who did an unreal job and communicated during the whole build.

The engine is being set up for boost, the original plan was for a whipple 2900 or similar but am now leaning toward a single turbo setup likely with an BW S480.

Behind the engine will be a built and transbraked TH400 and around a 4000rpm stall.

As soon as I figure out how to upload photos I will haha.. Let me know if you've had any experiences with a similar build. I'm eager to here some tips and tricks people have.
Cheers,
Darcy.

 

[JoshlikesCalais]

Maaaaad!

 

[Surfwagon]

Very nice and powerful.

 

[Sandman]

You don't mess around, decent shopping list there. Keen to watch this progress.

 

[Drawnnite]

Very nice, and also quite jealous
Am keen to see how this thing goes.

 

[Ddridan]

Cheers guys, ordered some more parts on the weekend to get the ball rolling a bit quicker after a good week of overtime:
-LS3 anodised fuel rails
-4AN stainless braid steam vent lines
-Tuff Mounts
-catch can
-10AN fittings for sump (turbo drain) and rocker covers
Also did a bit of work yesterday arv with a beer (or 6) to get the sump to fit properly, had to modify the 4.00" stroke windage tray to fit over the ARP main studs and a bit of massaging for the sump.

Will post more pictures up when I get the bottom end all sealed up.

 

[Ddridan]

Finally able to find some time to get back on to the forum.
Got a heap of things ordered and fitted but most importantly got the engine in the Clubby on it mounts.
After the sump all I had to do was slap on all the accessories and the valve springs. Valve spring swap was a breeze, using the Manley .660" dual valve spring kit.

I got my Coan Racing Th400 rated at 800hp, Coan Racing 3500 Rpm stally, and flex plate with spacer for LS to th400 swap. They're sitting in the shop waiting to be put in once I get the rest of the car done.
Also got the B&M Pro Ratchet ordered, some -10AN stainless steel braid and fittings for the engine oil cooler and will be ordering trans cooler and lines next week, then it's just the tailshaft I have to track down or get a local shop to make one up. It won't let me post photos from my phone so I'll try and figure it out soon!

 

[Ddridan]

Here's some more photos.

 

[super vy 666]

G'day mate, going through a similar build on my cluby just with an lm7 over ls2 and keeping it manual. Just wondering what rims you went and how wide you've gone on the rear? All the concave rims I've found need to be 9.5 inch or wider and without a lift doesn't look like they'll fit. Love the look of yours mate, keep up the good work.

 

[Ddridan]

Sounds good man, the LM7s are stout engines too, real good for boost. I was going to stay manual but I went for a ride in PROGTS and that sold me on the th400 haha
I went with the Koya CR Tek wheels, Koya lets you do custom offset so to fit 18x9.5 I went with +30ET offset. The reason I went 18" wheels is because Mickey Thompson makes an 18" drag radial haha. If I did it again I'd do +25 offset just to give a bit more clearance with the front shock so I can run a bit more camber. It's a bit daunting at first to see the poke but it worked out well.