B
burnoutboy
Guest
your prices seem to be quite high guys....
My Coventrys prices:
Coil pack (BOSCH) $71.00 inc
DFT Unit (BOSCH) $148.00 inc
My Coventrys prices:
Coil pack (BOSCH) $71.00 inc
DFT Unit (BOSCH) $148.00 inc
Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.
B
blacki
Guest
Good thing I didn't have to pay for it!
That was nearly three years ago.
Just double checked, the key switch in the glovebox is for the immobiliser.
If you are going to replace your coil pack, apparently the VP-S coil packs will fit in VN and they're more reliable.
VP Coil (3 required) - Part Number 10472401
So if it's not the immobiliser, coil pack or DFI, the fuel pumps stop sometimes and you just hit the tank near the pump and it'll start going again. Mine actually didn't do that when it went out, but my housemate's did.
But of course you'd be slapping yourself if you didn't notice that.
That was nearly three years ago.
Just double checked, the key switch in the glovebox is for the immobiliser.
If you are going to replace your coil pack, apparently the VP-S coil packs will fit in VN and they're more reliable.
VP Coil (3 required) - Part Number 10472401
So if it's not the immobiliser, coil pack or DFI, the fuel pumps stop sometimes and you just hit the tank near the pump and it'll start going again. Mine actually didn't do that when it went out, but my housemate's did.
But of course you'd be slapping yourself if you didn't notice that.
jules
we like the bun
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QUOTE (burnoutboy @ Feb 13 2004, 02:49 PM) What the hell does back-probe mean? Which pin and where? i dont have a service manual, all i have is a listing of the error codes.
The signal comes from the DFI? well there must be some sort of signal coming from the CAS
i don't have the manual with me right now, i can't remember which wire it is.
the CAS does not have a direct input to the ECU, where it is easiest to backprobe the wire. backprobing means sticking the multimeter probe into the connection at the ECU. you pull out the plastic insert thingy (the blue and grey things) to gain access.
again, if you can verify that the DFI output to the ECU is working, that is only possible if the CAS is working too i'd say.
The signal comes from the DFI? well there must be some sort of signal coming from the CAS
i don't have the manual with me right now, i can't remember which wire it is.
the CAS does not have a direct input to the ECU, where it is easiest to backprobe the wire. backprobing means sticking the multimeter probe into the connection at the ECU. you pull out the plastic insert thingy (the blue and grey things) to gain access.
again, if you can verify that the DFI output to the ECU is working, that is only possible if the CAS is working too i'd say.
Garth
Your guess is as good as mine......
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sorry about the dealy, but time to settle this once and for all
there is a set way of checking the cas, you need to disconect the pin's from the cas, and measure the resistance. if it goes over a certain value it's buggered. a cas is a hall effect swtich, what does is pic's up when piston no one, is comming around. it then tells the ecu, and the rest is history.
if you dont have injector pulse,and dont have spark, and it' strying to start, you can safely assume it's the cas.
i not to long ago replaced a member of this site's cas for her. it gave the following symptons.
no spark
no injector pulse
tested the injectors, they were fine (that was just for my own sake)
t ested the cas using a multi meter, (set on the ohm's scale only, a auto ranging meter would be a better option, saves you converting k ohms or m ohms back to ohms.
i replaced the cas and it started and died, (it died from a different problem, fuel problem.)
you cant check the cas with a cro. cas dont put out a signwave, it's a magnet, it's called a hall affect switch. all it does is picks up changes in magnetic relaionship to the harmonic ballancer.
you can test if the dfi and ecu are talking to each other, on the series one vn and 2, look for the very last slotted pin spot on the dfi connector. it' scalled pin "j" you stick your multi meter in there and put it on a good earth. (independent from the dfi moduel, like the alternator body, you should get the battery voltage, if you have it, the ecu is fine.
like jules said, backprobing is the easieest thing out there to do, i would have to say, i dont know why it's called back probing, it is more a continuity test to make srue there is no cable dammage or anything else amiss there.
should you require any futher info, email [email protected] and ill be more than happy to make up the resistance value's for you for the vn series 1 and 2 commodore cas.
but my money is on the cas
cheers
garth
there is a set way of checking the cas, you need to disconect the pin's from the cas, and measure the resistance. if it goes over a certain value it's buggered. a cas is a hall effect swtich, what does is pic's up when piston no one, is comming around. it then tells the ecu, and the rest is history.
if you dont have injector pulse,and dont have spark, and it' strying to start, you can safely assume it's the cas.
i not to long ago replaced a member of this site's cas for her. it gave the following symptons.
no spark
no injector pulse
tested the injectors, they were fine (that was just for my own sake)
t ested the cas using a multi meter, (set on the ohm's scale only, a auto ranging meter would be a better option, saves you converting k ohms or m ohms back to ohms.
i replaced the cas and it started and died, (it died from a different problem, fuel problem.)
you cant check the cas with a cro. cas dont put out a signwave, it's a magnet, it's called a hall affect switch. all it does is picks up changes in magnetic relaionship to the harmonic ballancer.
you can test if the dfi and ecu are talking to each other, on the series one vn and 2, look for the very last slotted pin spot on the dfi connector. it' scalled pin "j" you stick your multi meter in there and put it on a good earth. (independent from the dfi moduel, like the alternator body, you should get the battery voltage, if you have it, the ecu is fine.
like jules said, backprobing is the easieest thing out there to do, i would have to say, i dont know why it's called back probing, it is more a continuity test to make srue there is no cable dammage or anything else amiss there.
should you require any futher info, email [email protected] and ill be more than happy to make up the resistance value's for you for the vn series 1 and 2 commodore cas.
but my money is on the cas
cheers
garth
T
troy5.7
Guest
Sorry i dont have enought time to read the whole thing i had to breeze through it. Have you tried the fuel pump when you are trying to kick it over hit your fuel tank and it might start, i have seen this happen many times
B
burnoutboy
Guest
well it fixed (HOOOORAAAAAYYYYY)
but no-one guessed what it was - so no beer.
the dfi unit was faulty, but when it died, it caused part of the witing harness to melt... when i replaced it i must have bumped the wires or something as a few were shorted together... i found this mess and re-wired it all (what a prick of a job that was) and VROOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!! off it went
the cas is fine
but no-one guessed what it was - so no beer.
the dfi unit was faulty, but when it died, it caused part of the witing harness to melt... when i replaced it i must have bumped the wires or something as a few were shorted together... i found this mess and re-wired it all (what a prick of a job that was) and VROOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!! off it went
the cas is fine