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RECALLS: VE & WM Series Holden Vehicles

Discussion in 'VE Holden Commodore (2006 - 2013)' started by vy_storm, Oct 16, 2006.

  1. red truck

    red truck New Member

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    just left of hell
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    VY one tonner / gen3 / 6speed
    And I thought my VY was a bucket of bolts, which it is.
    I won't be rushing out to my local (arrogant & incompetent) dealer to buy a VE.
     
  2. sportsmodelsaustralia

    sportsmodelsaustralia New Member

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    i have had strange clunk noises as well everynow and then when getting in the car and driving off when its cold. the clunk also comes from the right front. i have a service on my VE SV6 on saturday so i will see what they say about it
     
  3. disorganise

    disorganise Member

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    I was getting a clunking noise from the front since around October last year on my SS-V. The dealer from which I bought the car basically treated me like an idiot twice, as if the noises are in my head!
    In December I went to HunterHolden - they initially tightened some stuff and lubricated something and said if it comes back they'll delve deeper.
    Well eventually, last month I got the thing sorted. The sway bar bushes and front suspension bearings were swapped out, and some rubber insulators (?) fitted. All under warranty - took em two days due to not having all the parts.

    the best part is, the steering it now sooooo much better - tight, like the clubsport I test drove in April. I had complained about slight play in the steering at the 15k service (original dealer) and was told it was due to the new steering columns being able to crumple safely in an accident (my previous car was pretty old).

    And today I got the rear springs replaced under warranty 'cos they were making a creaking noise - apparently for a certain VIN range it's a know problem with how the spring sits. SO now my car is like new and is my faith is much restored. Guess where I'll be buying my next Holden?
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2009
  4. JC_VE6

    JC_VE6 New Member

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    I also have a clunk noise on front right (VE OMEGA 06) - only when i start in morning and is cold. does it a couple of times when i go over small holes such as drop off from driveway to road, Ive been told its in my head basically - its not,.
    One place said it was coz i dont have spring insulators on the springs, and that will fix it... im not entirely convinced ill say that.

    Id be keen to know if others have found a solution other than "sway bar bushes and front suspension bearings were swapped out, and some runner insulators (?) fitted"... seems kinda weird.

    I should mention i swapped my omega factory springs with SS springs... maybe related??

    JC.
     
  5. BOY1236

    BOY1236 Crazy dude in a V8

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    I have the front right clunk too ..

    the dealer still says that it's nothing
     
  6. freddyfinn

    freddyfinn New Member

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    I found the best way to diagnose these problems is to go to Pedders and pay for the safety check. When they give you the readout they should also supply a breakdown of parts that need attention.
    Use the list and revisit the dealership for repairs.

    My mate had a Suzuki Swift with a frontend knock. The Suzuki dealer said there was nothing wrong so I told him to take it to Pedders. Needless to say Pedders had no problem finding the knock and urged him to take it back to Suzuki ASAP as the bearing caps on top of the front struts were completely gone and it was a danger to drive.
    Sometimes it's better to consult a specialist than a dealership.
     
  7. MySV6

    MySV6 New Member

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    I too have the clunk in my MY10 SV6 - It's only 4 weeks old & not been back for its 3000K service, but it's one thing I'll get them to have a look at.
     
  8. SV6SidiUTE

    SV6SidiUTE Vroom?

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    Hmmm, now that you've all mentioned it I do have it too. I am very happy with the car otherwise, but that noise does happen occasionaly. Mainly when i park the car or right after take off. I just assumed it was normal....
     
  9. The X Man

    The X Man Donating Member

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    Sounds like spring slap which is when two parts of the coil spring compress so much they actually hit one another and cause a clunk noise. If it is the easy fix is to put some spiroband or rubber tube around the top and bottom coils.
     
  10. Lean Back

    Lean Back Banned

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    mad
    why do you spend 41k on a car when you can't figure out what to do when it breaks down?

    shocking.
     
  11. SV6SidiUTE

    SV6SidiUTE Vroom?

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    why buy a 200 K Merc and not service it yourself? sounds like a stupid question? "shocking"
    not everyone is a mechanic, or has mechanical knowledge, but does like to own a good car.

    edit - the ban seems appropriate, thanks admin.
     
  12. sssmechanicholdenbrisb

    sssmechanicholdenbrisb mechanic

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    6 cylinder fuel hose rework consists of a zip tie..... not a big problem so dont worry. By the way all are you aware that soon no more outsource building ve's!!!!! plant in australia open soon and this will correct most "i couldnt read english and fittefd rodeo belt to ve" faults. something i have noticed recently though is only seeing Modded commodores when they are on a tow truck, there is a recommended fix for this, get every second or third service done at holden GET ONLY oil change, inspection (which we would do anyway) and dtc code check for any electronic faults. when fault will cause errors to the electronics will it turn the engine light on e.g. ecu KNOWS that tps sensor faulty but until OUT OF RANGE wont set engine light on but code is already stored...... so check your 20's tyre pressure weekly (dont even ask me why), and get a check AT HOLDEN every now and then, we are more expensive "sometimes" than others because we know your car better ESPECIALLY VE & WM!
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2010
  13. sssmechanicholdenbrisb

    sssmechanicholdenbrisb mechanic

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    sorry more to reply to i see,
    clunk in front of VE can "possibly Be (thats POSSIBLY)"
    front linkpins (loose ball joints not dangerous), strut coil spring COVERS (like a rubbger hose on spring, not dangerous), wheel bearings (if had hit, dangerous),
    loose wheel nuts(not like falling off but ve/wm nuts supposed to be 170nm very tight), shroud under wiper arms(plastic on rhf under glass), engine mounts (split in v8's if driven REALLY HARD, A LOT and will normally feel thud in floor), exhaust shields (rattle on some ve's for no apparent reason), breather outlet on floorpan near transmission(taps on floorpan on take off if banged up into floor by road debri i've found), or sway bar d-shackle bushes (not normal now was found in VERY VERY EAARLY VE's only).

    Normally in this order
    there is of course other causes but this will be up to your dealer's technicians to diagnose.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2010
  14. HoldenCanMan21

    HoldenCanMan21 New Member

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    Hello fellow G8/VE owners.

    Seems like we have the same problems ...
    Maybe this TSB (techinical Service bulletin) can help ....
    in exchange when someone figures out how to fix the BACK SUSPENSION NOISE ... PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!

    GM USA/GM CANADA

    #09-03-08-008: Knock Clunk Or Click Noise From Front Suspension Over Small Bumps (Replace Front Lower Control And Caster Arms) -


    Attention: This bulletin is intended to correct a condition for front end knock, clunk or clicking. Vehicles previously repaired as part of Campaign #09203A are to follow a different repair procedure as outlined under the Correction section below.



    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a clunk, knock or click noise from the front suspension over small bumps.

    Cause
    The rubber "boot" over the front end lower control arm ball joint may have become dislodged or torn compromising the seal. Moisture inside the ball joint seal may cause corrosion, shortening the service life of the component.

    Correction
    Notice: Before replacing any components under the terms of this bulletin, you must confirm the past service history of the vehicle. Please use GMVIS to confirm if the vehicle was previously repaired under Customer Satisfaction Campaign #09203A. If the vehicle was repaired under this service action, ONLY replace the front control arm found to be the source of the noise and claim the applicable Labor Operation for that part as outlined in SI and the labor time guide.

    Vehicles not identified in Customer Satisfaction Campaign #09203A (or not repaired during its duration) and found to have one or more of the rubber boots improperly sealing should have all four front control arms replaced.

    Front Lower Control and Caster Arm Replacement (Both Sides)
    The instructions below detail replacement of all four front lower control and caster arms.

    Danger: To avoid any vehicle damage, serious personal injury or death when major components are removed from the vehicle and the vehicle is supported by a hoist, support the vehicle with jack stands at the opposite end from which the components are being removed and strap the vehicle to the hoist.

    •Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.
    •Remove the front wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in SI.




    •Loosen the control arm to steering knuckle retaining nut (1) about two turns.




    •Using the J-42188-B Ball Joint Separator (1), disconnect the control arm (2) from the steering knuckle (3).




    •Remove the control arm to steering knuckle retaining nut (1).
    •Separate the control arm (2) from the steering knuckle (3).
    •Remove the control arm to subframe retaining bolt.




    •Remove and discard the front control arm (3) from the subframe (2).
    •Install the NEW front control arm (3) to the subframe (2).
    Warning: The existing control arm bolts and nuts may be reused for this procedure. You MUST remove all traces of the original adhesive patch on the bolt. Clean the threads of the bolt with denatured alcohol, GM Low VOC Brake Cleaner GM P/N 12378392 or equivalent, and allow to dry. Before Installation, apply threadlocker GM P/N 12345493 (in Canada, use 10953488) or blue, medium LOCTITE™ 242.

    Note: The NEW front control arm to subframe retaining bolt (1) must not be fully tightened at this stage.

    •Install the NEW front control arm to subframe retaining bolt (1).
    •Install the NEW control to the steering knuckle.




    •Install the NEW front control arm (1) to steering knuckle retaining nut (2).
    Important: Use the J 45059 Torque / Angle Tool when tightening the following:

    Tighten

    • First Pass: Tighten the nut to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

    • Final Pass: Tighten the nut an additional 60 degrees.





    •Loosen the caster arm to steering knuckle retaining nut (1) about two turns.




    •Using the J-42188-B Ball Joint Separator (3), disconnect the caster arm (1) from the steering knuckle (2).




    •Remove the caster arm to steering knuckle retaining nut (3). Mark keyway slot on the bushing relative to the cradle.
    •Separate the caster arm (1) from the steering knuckle (2).
    •Remove the caster arm to subframe retaining bolt.




    •Remove and discard the caster arm from the subframe .
    •Install the NEW caster arm to the subframe. Line up the keyway slot on the bushing to previous mark on the cradle.
    •Install the front caster arm to the subframe retaining bolt.
    •Install the new front caster arm to the steering knuckle.




    Note: The caster arm to subframe retaining bolt is not to be fully tightened at this stage.

    •Install the NEW caster arm (1) to the steering knuckle (2) retaining nut.
    Important: Use the J 45059 Torque / Angle Tool when tightening the following

    Tighten

    • First Pass: Tighten the nut to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

    • Final Pass: Tighten the nut an additional 60 degrees.

    •Repeat Steps 3-20 for the other side of the vehicle then continue below.
    •Install the front wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in SI.
    •Lower the vehicle.
    •Bounce the vehicle several times to settle the suspension.
    •Check and adjust the wheel alignment. Refer to Front End Alignment in SI.
    •Tighten the NEW control arm to subframe retaining bolt.
    Important: Use the J 45059 Torque / Angle Tool when tightening the following:

    Tighten

    • First Pass: Tighten the bolts to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

    • Final Pass: Tighten the bolts an additional 120 degrees.

    •Tighten the NEW caster arm to subframe retaining bolt.
    Important: Use the J 45059 Torque / Angle Tool when tightening the following:

    Tighten

    • First Pass: Tighten the bolts to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).

    • Final Pass: Tighten the bolts an additional 120 degrees.

    Parts Information
    Part Number
    Description
    Qty

    92244046
    Arm Asm -- Frt Lwr Control Frt Right
    1

    92244047
    Arm Asm -- Frt Lwr Control Frt Left
    1

    92244050
    Arm Asm -- Frt Lwr Control (Caster) Right
    1

    92244051
    Arm Asm -- Frt Lwr Control (Caster) Left
    1

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
    Description
    Labor Time

    E9505*
    Replace Front Lower Control & Caster Arms (Both Sides) - Perform Wheel Alignment
    2.6 hrs

    *This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.


    Note: If the vehicle was previously repaired under Campaign 09203A, ONLY replace the front control arm found to be the source of the noise and claim the applicable Labor Operation for that part as outlined in SI and the Labor Time Guide.

    GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

    WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
     
  15. Cocopopz

    Cocopopz New Member

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    Just had my VE SS MY9.5 serviced. Has a recall for faulty seals in the aircon system somewhere, sorry I cant supply many more details on this.
    Also having gearbox replaced as they have acknowledged a end float problem with the syncros.
    I was also talking to someone about the clutch not returning, Holden fitted a new master and slave, new pressure plate and a 427 clutch plate to resolve the issue. I'm not sure how far this will be taken by holden but the problems seem to manifest at around 40,000kms.
     
  16. smokyJ

    smokyJ New Member

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    Holden—VE Ute
    PRA number: 2010/11799
    Date created: 9th July 2010
    Product information
    Product description
    VE Ute
    Identifying features
    ISOVIN range:

    6G1E#42###L100048 - 6G1E#42###L458251
    6G1E#42###L923162 - 6G1E#42###L983869

    Target Number: 34,432
    Campaign Number: 10-H-04

    What are the hazards?
    The tailgate may unlatch when impacted rearwards.
    What are the defects?
    A condition can occur under specific operating conditions where the tailgate may unlatch when impacted rearwards with sufficient energy by unsecured objects placed in the rear cargo tray.
    Where the product was sold
    National
    Supplier
    GM Holden Ltd
    What should consumers do?
    If the Ute's cargo tray is loaded, owners should either use a Holden tonneau cover or ensure items are firmly restrained within the tray and not loaded against the tailgate.

    Contact your authorised Holden delaership for a free-of-charge rework (timing will be subject to availability of parts).


    ANOTHER ONE
     
  17. kunalraiker

    kunalraiker New Member

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    I'am not sure if anyone has heard about a faulty belt which caused some noise between the 2000-3000 rev mark ,I heard it was replaced with a thinner belt.
     
  18. single-pegger

    single-pegger New Member

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    Ford explorer - cruise control fail

    the ford explorer wasnt re-called for nearly a decade after manufacture !
    how many deaths are ford accountable for because of the cruise control failing to de activate ?
    woooooops!
     
  19. Johnsy

    Johnsy ★★★★★

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    My R8 has started to play up when i use the right indicator, it stars normal but after 3 flashes it doubles in speed. I first thought i had a blown globe but the front and side was fine and the back is LED so it doesn't have a globe. I have contacted my dealer who said it is a common problem with HSV's and they will install some type of relay in the wiring as the car cant tell the difference with the globes and led's which require a different voltage ? I thought it was all 12V anyway.... so why is my left one ok ? they couldn't answer me so i will see how i go...
     
  20. db_notso

    db_notso diagnostic technician...

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    tailights flash fast, i heard this is going to be or was fixed in production only a handful eventually developed the fault ( my neighbour has one :)
    his dealer said its to do with the amperage the leds use (not the voltage) of the tailights your dealer probably just got confused or didnt know [u get that sometimes :) ]
     

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