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replacing engine mounts on a VT

Discussion in 'VT - VX Holden Commodore (1997 - 2002)' started by Stue, Dec 9, 2006.

  1. Stue

    Stue New Member

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    Hi there,

    As anyone had the fun of replacing engine mounts on a VT V6? I have been advised that they sag and it is a "common problem" (dont know how true that is..).
    So after spending a whole f**king day trying to get the new mounts in, there was no way in hell I could get the mounts to line up and lower the engine into place.

    Can anyone who has been through the fun of replacing engine mounts on a Vt V6 advise how the hell you go about it?

    Many thanks!!!
     
  2. accentstencil

    accentstencil Well-Known Member

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    Are you talking about lowering the mounts into the crossmember? If so, don't do any nuts up tight until you've got them in place, just screw the nuts on a couple of turns so you've got plenty of movement to manouvre the studs into place. I hope you understand what I mean.
     
  3. TigerVX

    TigerVX New Member

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    How do you tell if your mounts need to be replaced?
     
  4. accentstencil

    accentstencil Well-Known Member

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    If the sump is very close to the crossmember is one way. Sometimes the mounts look OK but if you jack the engine up just a bit to take some weight off the mounts, you can see if they are cracked or broken. Don't forget to use a piece of wood between the jack and sump.
     
  5. Stue

    Stue New Member

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    Replacing VT engine mounts.

    Many thanks for your reply.

    I have found, it you loosely bolt the mounts to the chasis, they dont line up when the engine comes down, and if you loosely bolt the mounts to the engine, because of the angle of the bolts on the mounts, they wont even go close to going in the holes in the chasis.If you loosely bolt only one mount on (to both the chasis and the engine), when you try to lower the engine to line up the other mount, the holes will not line up due th the angle the engine is coming down at (as it is loosey bolted to one side).
    I have found it to be an extremely difficult job to manouvre the engine and try to line up the bolts. Every time I would lower the engine, the bolt holes would not line up.......:bang:
     
  6. accentstencil

    accentstencil Well-Known Member

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    I remember having the same problem when I did mine but unfortunately I can't really recall how I got around it. I think it was through sheer force, levering it with a bar. I do remember that I did the top part first and then dropped it into the crossmember. Get one mount in first and put the nuts on loosely and then work on the other one with leverage. It is easier to line up if you remove the engine brackets but it is also a lot more work.
     
  7. minux

    minux Infidel Bear

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    Or if when you hard accelerate your hear a bang on your right side when letting the accelerator off.

    They aren't that hard to replace, i did mine in an LS1 based VT while changing the headers.
     
  8. Stue

    Stue New Member

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    VT engine mounts

    Many thanks for your advice!

    I shall try again today (Day 2......), and it sounds like it is a 2 person job.

    To rmove the engine brackets must involve either removing the A/C compressor or the power steering......is this correct?

    Thanks again!!
     
  9. Doctor Bob

    Doctor Bob Grandpa

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    take the drivers side mount off the block,
    replace the lh mount & fit the nuts to it loosely,
    replace the rhs mount out of the car,
    drop the mount into the kframe
    bolt it back to the block, tighten everything up.
    about an hour

    Rob
     
  10. accentstencil

    accentstencil Well-Known Member

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    Yes it does involve removing the compressor and on the driver's side you will have to remove the knock sensor cover plate and possibly the steering pump for better access. Like I said it's a lot more work that way, but it can be done without removing the engine brackets. It is definitely easier with 2 people.
    I would try Doctor Bob's method, sounds easier.
     
  11. Stue

    Stue New Member

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    VT Engine mount - FINALL DONE!

    :yeah:
    Thanks for the advice fellas!! much appreciated. Took about an hour and a few swear words to get it done!

    I found (and heres for interest of those who may have to do this in future), it is best to hava a mate working the jack (which is under the sump), bolt very loosely on the driver side the mount to the engine, and bolt the opposite (passenger side) mount very loosely to the chasis. The lower the jack down to just about touching and use a suitable bar such as a drift to manouvere the sump.

    Because a jack tends to move the engine forward when raising the engine, and back when lowering, I found I had to (with care!) lever the sump forwards for the holes to line up. As the studs on the mount on the driver side are longer (as they are the ones going into the chasis) that the studs on the passenger side (these ones will be going into the engine), concentrate on getting the drivers side mount into place first. Just get the start of the studs through the chasis. Then lower very the jack slightly and using a breaker bar/ drift etc to manouvre the sump forward and use the jack to go either left or right (by just turnig the jack with the jacking bar). This gave enough manouvering to get the holes on the passenger side mount in line. Then lower just slightly and get all the nuts loosely on. Lower a little more and start to put the nuts more on. Then one person lower the jack, the other "wiggle" the engine from side to side from the top to ensure the mounts are sitting properly. Do the nuts up and your done!

    And if your as stupid as me....it will only take a day and a half to get done!!!

    Thanks to you guys who replied and assisted with advice!...Cheers.:yeah:
     
  12. accentstencil

    accentstencil Well-Known Member

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    Good to see you got it done. How bad were your old mounts, were they broken or just sagging?
     
  13. Stue

    Stue New Member

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    BOTH!, when looking at them on the car they looked fine, other than sagging of course, but when removed, both had huge cracks through them.....and the car has done 150,000 kms.

    Not happy Jan!
    But I appreciate very much your assistance!
     
  14. kick-bak-au

    kick-bak-au New Member

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    Cheers guys. Just did a motor swap on my VT and this thread helped a lot with those pesky engine mounts. An Engine crane plus jack under the trans did the trick for me.
    Removing the steering pump helps and unbolting the air con compressor from the engine gives lots of room to work with. Just swing the compressor out of the way and
    tie up with a piece of wire. Unless you wish to pay for a re-gas, do not undo compressor hoses.
     

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