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Solution to Sticky fuel/temp guages

NOGEN 3

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Yes, if any1 does this can they put pics up? The Statesman dash has no circuit board under the guage, unless it's under the speedo, and my fuel guage is sticky...
Maybe I have to pull out the speedo, if I find anything, I'll lets ya's know, if your interested....
Looks like I'm the 1st to have a sticky fuel guage on a L3 dash...???
 

holdenrules

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Yes, if any1 does this can they put pics up? The Statesman dash has no circuit board under the guage, unless it's under the speedo, and my fuel guage is sticky...
Isn't this problem fixed by tightening the nuts and/or cleaning the contacts on the back of the speedo cluster (on the outside)? :unsure:
 

NOGEN 3

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Isn't this problem fixed by tightening the nuts and/or cleaning the contacts on the back of the speedo cluster (on the outside)? :unsure:
Could be, for all I know? When I bought it, the guy said the fuel guage was sticky? So I thought I'd sort it out b4 I put it in the car.....
 

badger__rox

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i did this the temp gauge works good but the fuel one is still a bit sticky but it will do
 

maglok

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i am goin to try this tomoss hope it works
 

caminsa

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is there a place that can do this for me??? i dont have a soulder and it seems difficult??
 

IvegotaCommy

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Thought I would give this a try as a possible cure for a 'dead' temp gauge. In retrospect, I don't like the method suggested by the first poster. I have the 91 VN which has the (small) tacho. Problem is with pulling the needles off. You run a very real risk of bending the shaft. Even if you do manage to remove the needle without damage, the calibration will be severely effected if you put the needle back on in anything but the original position. Those needles are pre-loaded.
I would not recommend doing it that way. First, the steering wheel does not need to come off as the pod will come out without removing it. Then, with pod out, proceed:

91VNInstpanelfrontsmall.png


Start as said with the 4 torx screws holding the curved panel in.

91VNinstpanelrearsmall.png


Remove the 3 nuts and washers holding the tacho from the REAR of the unit. Then the 4 nuts and washers from the Fuel/Temp gauge. Now the 4 torx screws from the Speedo. You will have to disconnect the connector from the Speedo. To do this, insert a small screwdriver into the small slot on top of the connector and apply pressure between the two connector halves as you gently pull the cable. Taking care to hold the gauges turn the unit over then slide out the 2 plastic dress strips from between the face panels. Now lift out the gauges

91VNInstremovedsmall.png


Once you have the gauges out, the regulator board is on the left behind where the tacho was. I think the earlier ones were a bad batch as mine seemed to not have the dry joint problem.

91VNInstpanelintsmall.png
 
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Lost_Pete

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Nice photos IvegotaCommy.

I did mine when I fixed the odometer. The joints look fine but I resoldered them anyway. Anyway the gauges work more often than not now as opposed to hardly ever before but I did drop the cluster onto the carpet by accident as well.
 
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ThaJFactor

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Did this today and it worked a charm.. No more bouncing all over the place!!.. Only problem, my fuel tank isn't as full anymore cos it actually reads correctly now..
 
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