[SOLVED] Vacuum reading interpretation

[sundaydriver]

Googling this is like googling 'head ache' - lots of different results.
So, hoping some of you knowledgeable people can help me out.

From what I've read, the low (13-14 inch) reading is indicative of off/bad engine/valve timing?

And the steady 1+ inch drop/return is likely a sticky/burnt valve?

I am hoping neither is the case, because I've no idea where to start to fix either (and don't want to pay a mechanic - I want to learn!)

Note that the entire ignition system has been replaced recently (so probably nothing to do with ignition timing) - tough I am curious - there's at notch on the metal dizzy housing that looks like it's mean to align with the rotor? Mine doesn't and I physically can't align them by hand - rotor just won't turn. Is this a thing? Should the rotor and that notch align? (like this.)

Also note that all the vacuum lines and connections are new and solid. So unlikely a leak. I've checked the head gasket with the usual tests, and it's fine. Only thing I haven't replaced is the manifold gasket - tested it for leaks with he spray test, but it didn't show anything.

So thoughts?

On other side note. You'll see there are two tracks on the hand vacuum gauge. Outside shows 35-40 reading. Inside shows 13-14. Thing is, my dash vacuum gauge shows the 35-40 too. I thought this was very high for a vacuum reading... unless it's a different unit of measurement or something?

Sorry for the vertical video...

 

[sundaydriver]

Since the above, I have adjusted the idle down to ~800RPM. This has made the swing more frequent and doubled drop/return.
The swing is now 13-15 and happens steadily but constantly.

 

[whats up]

Googling this is like googling 'head ache' - lots of different results.
So, hoping some of you knowledgeable people can help me out.

Googling this is like googling 'head ache' - lots of different results.
So, hoping some of you knowledgeable people can help me out.

From what I've read, the low (13-14 inch) reading is indicative of off/bad engine/valve timing?

And the steady 1+ inch drop/return is likely a sticky/burnt valve?

I am hoping neither is the case, because I've no idea where to start to fix either (and don't want to pay a mechanic - I want to learn!)

Note that the entire ignition system has been replaced recently (so probably nothing to do with ignition timing) - tough I am curious - there's at notch on the metal dizzy housing that looks like it's mean to align with the rotor? Mine doesn't and I physically can't align them by hand - rotor just won't turn. Is this a thing? Should the rotor and that notch align? (like this.)

Also note that all the vacuum lines and connections are new and solid. So unlikely a leak. I've checked the head gasket with the usual tests, and it's fine. Only thing I haven't replaced is the manifold gasket - tested it for leaks with he spray test, but it didn't show anything.

So thoughts?

On other side note. You'll see there are two tracks on the hand vacuum gauge. Outside shows 35-40 reading. Inside shows 13-14. Thing is, my dash vacuum gauge shows the 35-40 too. I thought this was very high for a vacuum reading... unless it's a different unit of measurement or something?

Sorry for the vertical video...

From what I've read, the low (13-14 inch) reading is indicative of off/bad engine/valve timing?

And the steady 1+ inch drop/return is likely a sticky/burnt valve?

I am hoping neither is the case, because I've no idea where to start to fix either (and don't want to pay a mechanic - I want to learn!)

Note that the entire ignition system has been replaced recently (so probably nothing to do with ignition timing) - tough I am curious - there's at notch on the metal dizzy housing that looks like it's mean to align with the rotor? Mine doesn't and I physically can't align them by hand - rotor just won't turn. Is this a thing? Should the rotor and that notch align? (like this.)

Also note that all the vacuum lines and connections are new and solid. So unlikely a leak. I've checked the head gasket with the usual tests, and it's fine. Only thing I haven't replaced is the manifold gasket - tested it for leaks with he spray test, but it didn't show anything.

So thoughts?

On other side note. You'll see there are two tracks on the hand vacuum gauge. Outside shows 35-40 reading. Inside shows 13-14. Thing is, my dash vacuum gauge shows the 35-40 too. I thought this was very high for a vacuum reading... unless it's a different unit of measurement or something?

Sorry for the vertical video...

Hi there,from memory on the old girl the notch should line up with #1 piston at top dead centre.
Once this is established there should be no need for any more adjusting.

 

[sundaydriver]

Cheers mate.

Two questions -

1. Is there an easy way to find TDC (once you've remove the distributor - entirely - replaces and now can't start... just get a loud 'PUFF')
2. Do you mean the rotor should align with the distributor housing notch, when #1 is at TDC?

 

[strgas]

TDC can be found be removing #1 plug disconnect coil postive lead so engine wont fire or spark rotate or crank engine over with finger over plug hole feeling for compression as engine rotates over once pressure is felt check timing marks and set toTDC remove dizzy align mark on dizzy body with rotor button .
rotor button will rotate when refitted to engine block will need to adjust the rotor button position to allow the marks to align either advancing or retarding one tooth .
rotor button and dizzy mark should line up when dizzy is seated in the block .

vacum reading will move up and down recheck iginition timing .
compresion test of cylinders wet and dry .

 

[greenacc]

Not sure what the question is now?
If you replaced dizzy and engine won't start check rotor button points to #1 lead when timing mark is near zero degre on compression stroke. Set timing with timing light and start her up. If no go or backfire rotate dizzy cap half a turn or pull out dizzy and turn rotor 180deg as you've probably set it to TDC on exhaust stroke rather than compression.
Check rotor button turns while cranking engine.

 

[sundaydriver]

TDC can be found be removing #1 plug disconnect coil postive lead so engine wont fire or spark rotate or crank engine over with finger over plug hole feeling for compression as engine rotates over once pressure is felt check timing marks and set toTDC remove dizzy align mark on dizzy body with rotor button .
rotor button will rotate when refitted to engine block will need to adjust the rotor button position to allow the marks to align either advancing or retarding one tooth .
rotor button and dizzy mark should line up when dizzy is seated in the block .

vacum reading will move up and down recheck iginition timing .
compresion test of cylinders wet and dry .

You just said a lot.
I've read about the thumb test over the #1 spark plug hole. Problems are I can't get a tool on anything to turnover the engine manually, so 2, need a second person to turn the key, which I also don't have

 

[sundaydriver]

If you replaced dizzy and engine won't start check rotor button points to #1 lead when timing mark is near zero degre on compression stroke. Set timing with timing light and start her up. If no go or backfire rotate dizzy cap half a turn or pull out dizzy and turn rotor 180deg as you've probably set it to TDC on exhaust stroke rather than compression.
Check rotor button turns while cranking engine.

Apologies if this all basic stuff for everyone - I'm just learning as I go with it all.

So that's the first bit - Should the rotor button, dizzy-hosing notch, and #1 all line up? Or is just something to help get your bearings? I can't find anything that explains the relationship between the 3, why (or if) they should line up, and what impact that has on the engine.

Then you say set the timing with the timing light and then start the car. I thought you had to have it going to use the timing light? And at the moment, it's not going because I pulled out the dizzy and didn't put it and the rotor back in the right way - so It won't start. Instead I just get the 'Puffs' from the exhaust.

So now I'm thinking I've lost TDC, and because the engine won't start (and I can't turn it over manually - there's no bolt on the crank shaft...it just a hole...) I can't do the thumb-over-the-spark-plug-hole test to find roughly where TDC, or find zero degrees on the harmonic.

I know - I'm hopeless!

 

[greenacc]

How is there no bolt on the crank pulley?
Can you poke finger in the hole and feel threads? If yes I think the bolt has been lost and you need a new one urgently!!
There are 2 types of timing light, the gun type only works with engine running.
But you can get a simple little pen light probe thingy to use with engine off. The light comes on when the points open as you turn engine over manually with a spanner or socket bar on your new sexy crank shaft bolt!
Got a Gregory's manual?

 

[bennyssv]

Hello

i have a vf 2 ssv redline

long story short had a deep scratch on my front window had it replaced , went to the dealer multiple times because the outside trims where not matching and the foam on the dashboard was not matching up i Lost count how many times i have been there they had tried there best but still no luck, i cbfed any more.

i would like to know:
has any one had there front window replaced in a VF 2 or VF
cost of installed and window
any issues with installation

second part dealer scratched my paint and i noticed it a few weeks later i guess it is what it is ?