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[SOLVED] Vacuum reading interpretation

greenacc

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I see what you mean that cap on the spring doesn't look cantered. Is it loose, can you move it side to side more than the others?
Well at least all the rockers are rocking that's a good start.
Does it look like oil is flowing up to the rockers? The pushrods should be hollow and from memory oil flows up the pushrods to the rocker at the top?
If you wish you can undo the 'bridge' piece on top of that funny valve, another 2 bolts, and have a look at it. Best to do that while both valves are closed so no pressure on the rockers and nothing will jump out... Rotate engine by hand until valves are closed.
Don't know how that will help though.
Nice vid too mate.
Very hard to say if those rockers are rocking as much as they should or not ( that would determine if there's any issue with the lifters)
Does car have good power when you give it some? That would suggest valves are opening ok too.
Ever services the transmission ?
 

sundaydriver

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I see what you mean that cap on the spring doesn't look cantered. Is it loose, can you move it side to side more than the others?
Well at least all the rockers are rocking that's a good start.
Does it look like oil is flowing up to the rockers? The pushrods should be hollow and from memory oil flows up the pushrods to the rocker at the top?
If you wish you can undo the 'bridge' piece on top of that funny valve, another 2 bolts, and have a look at it. Best to do that while both valves are closed so no pressure on the rockers and nothing will jump out... Rotate engine by hand until valves are closed.
Don't know how that will help though.
Nice vid too mate.
Very hard to say if those rockers are rocking as much as they should or not ( that would determine if there's any issue with the lifters)
Does car have good power when you give it some? That would suggest valves are opening ok too.
Ever services the transmission ?

Nah, everything's tight - no rattle/give at all, on any of them.
Apart from the issue at low speed, I'd say power is what you'd expect from a stock one of these. Nothing spectacular, but OK.
I think the transmission may have been looked at in the past once or twice. I can tell you that it rolls back kind of easy on hills when in gear - not sure if that's an indication of anything other than needing a recondition or fluid top-up/change?
Will see how I go rotating the engine - it's note easy though.
Can't I loosen them slowly until they rattle a bit? so not having to rotate engine for every cylinder when I look at the lifters? Not sure how much pressure the spring hold - look strong though.
 

greenacc

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Autos will roll back unless you hold the revs up high enough to hold it on the hill, no issue. Was just wondering if the jerking could be coming from the box not the engine. No idea what happens to an auto if not used enough.
At any time when engine is off most of the valves are closed so I would undo all them first then turn engine a bit and undo the rest. Probably not an issue even if you unbolt them while valve open it should just close as you undo the bolts but it sounds a bit dodgy to me so I'd rather avoid that. Valve springs are strong yes and you wouldn't want to bend anything.
 

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OK - rocker off. Only think I noticed that looked out of place (not that I'd know) was the #2 exhaust valve spring. It looks bent or off-centre to me - all others are uniform. Check the picture and vid below (don't worry about the paint flakes - vacuumed them up right-quick). Think this would be causing the vacuum issue, or still worth taking a look at the lifters?

Around the 1:25 mark, you get a good view of the spring in the picture too.

View attachment 190246

The collets need to be repositioned correctly because if the valve goes (which could be anytime) it will drop into combustion chamber and cause untold havoc (expensive)
This can be fixed without head removal by pumping air into spark plug hole and using a valve spring compressor
I would say this is what your problem is,valve not closing properly.
You might as well do the valve stem seals while the cover is off as the have a tendency to deteriorate quickly on these engines.
 

sundaydriver

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The collets need to be repositioned correctly because if the valve goes (which could be anytime) it will drop into combustion chamber and cause untold havoc (expensive)
This can be fixed without head removal by pumping air into spark plug hole and using a valve spring compressor
I would say this is what your problem is,valve not closing properly.
You might as well do the valve stem seals while the cover is off as the have a tendency to deteriorate quickly on these engines.
Cheers. Picked up a spring compressor, torque wrench, valve stem seals and some degreaser. Going to be a busy weekend! Will check in if (when) I get stuck or when she's done. Fingers crossed those collets/fasteners are the issue!
 

greenacc

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What type of Spring compressor ?
Grandpas gonna be getting excited about now I reckon!
 

sundaydriver

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What type of Spring compressor ?
Grandpas gonna be getting excited about now I reckon!
I got the little overhead style, like this one down the right side of the page. Didn't want one of those massive lever ones.
Couldn't find them online through a store site, but luckily found one at Total Tools, when I was getting the torque wrench, so I bought it - $81. Then found they had them at Autobarn (Logan) for another $90. Autobarn one was probably a bit better - had a tap screw (like in that link) instead of a bar. But I wasn't about to go back.
 

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I got the little overhead style, like this one down the right side of the page. Didn't want one of those massive lever ones.
Couldn't find them online through a store site, but luckily found one at Total Tools, when I was getting the torque wrench, so I bought it - $81. Then found they had them at Autobarn (Logan) for another $90. Autobarn one was probably a bit better - had a tap screw (like in that link) instead of a bar. But I wasn't about to go back.


Don't forget to pump air into cylinder b4 undoing the valve
You might struggle to do #6 piston because of the clearance
But I'm not too sure,you might be ok.
My compressor is shorter
GL
 

the_boozer

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wind the piston you want to take the valve collet off to the top be you try remove the collet old blokes used to feed heaps of fine rope into the pot to keep the valve in place I've never bothered to remove the valves with the head on I don't think your problem is valves it didn't sound too bad in the video .
 

sundaydriver

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And so it begins. I must have misunderstood, but I thought I'd be able to take the push-rods out, and use a magnet down the push-rod hole to get the lifter out/up. doesn't seem like that hole is big enough to slide the lifter through?
The Gregory's manual just says take of the rocker cover, pivots, take out push-rods then use a magnet to pull out lifters... did I miss something do you have to take off the side panel? And does that mean draining anything first? coolant? sump? :(
 
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