TRIKKIs 03 VY V6 UTE BUILD JOURNAL THREAD

[VYFORI]

swaybars nothlane

You want to know what you're trying to achieve with swaybars, don't change the front/rear ratio just for the sake of it. Generally you increase front stiffness relative to rear to increase understeer (can actually be desirable in a some cases) and increase rear stiffness relative to front to increase oversteer. If you are happy with the handling balance, you can increase overall stiffness to reduce body roll, but there is such a thing as too stiff.

The front is a pain, you have to remove the front crossmember to get it out.

hence why i never bothered with the front one much - i enjoy the added oversteer.

it's a real pain in the arse to get under there. I know a fella who had to lift the motor out of his car just to swap it over.
Performance wise it'd probably be a good idea - the rear sway bar did wonders for oversteer.

Gday Everyone....

Right i get the picture avoid front if possible thanks for the feed back....
Since my ute sits on superlows Its pretty rock solid anyway.. it was manly for body roll stiffness.

That much labour intensive Motor Out !!! Crossmember too.. !! WOW the rear ???
Trying to achevie better turn in less body roll i think lol ....

My turn in is pretty good its the back that loses it for me i know its a ute sand bags over
axles in the rear they say but there has to be a better way...
I do like the oversteer but in the rain in ute its pretty hairy sometimes...

I was looking at a K-MAC Welcome to K-MAC, Camber Kits, Caster Kits, Springs, Swaybars.
Front '03VY - '06VZ part number 201811 for just a replacement bolt-on $295 adjustable $495 30mm
Rear part number 201821 replacement bolt-on $165 adjustable $395 16mm

Plus i will be getting the F/R enchancement kit aswell Nothlane !!

Have any of your people used K-MAC ?? Good Product ?? $$$ ???
What do you people have in your holdens ????

RIK..

 

[danja]

Right i get the picture avoid front if possible thanks for the feed back....
Since my ute sits on superlows Its pretty rock solid anyway.. it was manly for body roll stiffness.

No no, not saying avoid front's at all - I'm just saying you should know what you want to achieve before you jump into it. When I had a VT I did the front ONLY, because the car had a tendancy to oversteer, and the front sway helped settle it down a bit and make the steering more neutral. I found it a very worthwhile upgrade, but that was because that was how I wanted it.

You may want different, or you may be happy with what you have. Just make sure you know what effect changing your sways will have, don't just do them because you're looking for your next mod.

That much labour intensive Motor Out !!! Crossmember too.. !! WOW the rear ???
Trying to achevie better turn in less body roll i think lol ....

Yeah, I payed a shop to do it, cost more in labour than parts, but they did a good job of it and saved me the hassle, so money well spent IMO.

The rear is much less work, you basically put the rear on stands, get under and unbolt the thing.

My turn in is pretty good its the back that loses it for me i know its a ute sand bags over
axles in the rear they say but there has to be a better way...
I do like the oversteer but in the rain in ute its pretty hairy sometimes...

I'd start with tyres, then front sway. It might also be that your suspension is too aggressive.

 

[VYFORI]

Suspension info

No no, not saying avoid front's at all - I'm just saying you should know what you want to achieve before you jump into it. When I had a VT I did the front ONLY, because the car had a tendancy to oversteer, and the front sway helped settle it down a bit and make the steering more neutral. I found it a very worthwhile upgrade, but that was because that was how I wanted it.
You may want different, or you may be happy with what you have. Just make sure you know what effect changing your sways will have, don't just do them because you're looking for your next mod.
Yeah, I payed a shop to do it, cost more in labour than parts, but they did a good job of it and saved me the hassle, so money well spent IMO.
The rear is much less work, you basically put the rear on stands, get under and unbolt the thing. I'd start with tyres, then front sway. It might also be that your suspension is too aggressive.

Gday Everyone...

Thanks mate... Yeah i have all ready purchaced new set of rear tyres last week and it helped heaps.. i have superlow king springs they seem not to agressive.
Im looking for a racing stiff/solid kind of feel when i think about it with no oversteer and if anything on the side of understeer if you know what i mean...

I have read alot about suspension and this is what i understand
Oversteer the rear breaking traction and understeer the front braking traction.

As with understeer, both rigid and soft suspensions can cause oversteer With “roll oversteer” the car leans heavily, hitting the bump rubbers and causing a skipping action of the rear end,
often resulting in an inversion of the car. “Rigid oversteer” is brought about by a tight suspension set-up which does transfer sufficient weight to the wheel doing all the work.

Understeer can be caused by both too hard or too soft suspension. The hard suspension will have a tendency to “jump” on unsmooth surfaces, thus lessening contact
between tires and the road. With soft suspension the tendecy to accentuate centrifugal forces by excessive body roll.

Low Front tryre pressure increases understeer while high pressure increases oversteer.
High Rear tyre pressure increases understeer while low pressure increases oversteer.
Front Springs stiffer springs increases understeer while softer springs increases oversteer.
Rear springs softer increases undesteer while stiffer springs increases oversteer.

With the front sway bars the thicker the bar, the stiffer which increases understeer and the thinner the weaker swaybar which increases oversteer.
The rear sway bar is opposite to the front with a thinner rear the weaker which increases understeer while the thicker and stiffer the rear bar the more oversteer you get..

Trying to find a middle ground....

F/R Nolathane Enhancement Kit $752
Front Control Arm Lower Inner / Front Strut Mount / Strut bar to Chassis / Strut Bar to Control Arm / Sway Bar Upper Link
Rear Control Arm Outer / Rear IRS Camber adj kit / rear sway bar link

Plus a rear crossmember mount $190 and a front steering rack / pinion $22
Front '03VY - '06VZ part number 201811 for just a replacement bolt-on $295 adjustable $495 30mm
Rear part number 201821 replacement bolt-on $165 adjustable $395 16mm

Now i think i just need shocks ???? Nope No coilovers.... what shocks do you people have in your rides ??? HELP.

By the time i save up for these parts it will be Xmas lol

RIK....

 

[VYFORI]

Suspension info / Swaybars / Nolatlane

`Gday Everyone

I have been thinking over the weekend what sort of suspension upgrades and replacements im going to do...
As above i have Broken down the Nolathane F/R Enhancement kit in to individual parts for a better look.
Still not sure what to get and how much i want to spend ? Ideas ?
For anyone upgrading there suspension here is a beter break down.. Better than holden OEM.

44019 Front Strut Mount $225
45318 Front Control Arm Lower Inner $53
48166 Front Strut Bar To Chassis $194
48019 Front Strut Bar To Control Arm $36
42451 Front Swaybar Upperlink $17
46023 Rear Control Arm Outer $59
46138 Rear IRS Camber Kit $99
42174 Rear SwayBar Link $47

I also looked at Pedders Ill get a $$ for the Sports Ryder Front Shock Strut forgot that one..
4658 Strut Bar (Tower Bar) $200 dont know the ??mm
Gas Sports Ryder Shocks (Red) Pair Front $508 Rear $244

I looked and researched alittle bit more regarding VY holden Suspension.
I know most of you people would already know this but i like to keep it as a future reference for me and YOU.

The Camber is tyre edge wear / Caster is Hi-Speed directional stability / Toe alters wear position.
Holdens from factory and using Mcpherson struts have excessive play in most of the suspension points as alignment spec can vary.
Front and Rear crossmembers are not in alignment with the chassis which causes suspension wheel alignment adjustments to toe and camber
to be less accurate as they cannot make up for everything else being off alignment.
IRS on the Holden you cannot align and adjust rear wheel alignment like front, the Nolathane IRS kit is a must to align front and back.

Fitting a Rear sway bar with increase balance / under and over steer / body roll resistance and increases grip levels.
Most Factory holdens are biased towards understeer. Longer swaybar helps in providing a more netural characteristics in handling when a holden is at its cornering limit.
The rear is resisting more of the roll than the front does.
Installing swaybar in the rear roll stiffness is increased and chassis roll is reduced (reduces Roll"Camber").
Roll camber is the variation in the wheel/tyre camber setting due to chassis roll. during cornering usually results in outside wheels gaining positive camber.
By increasing roll stiffness and reducing roll camber effect, the wheel/tyre stays closer to its wheel alignment setting.
Can increase the cornering grip as the wheel/tyre does not loose much negative camber at the vehicles cornering limit.

The front radius bushes are made of rubber material which are one of the sloppiest points of the holden front end and he lies one of the biggest causes of poor
tyre wear because these mushy bushes effect the caster and the loss of camber gain in turns. Also effect braking as they allow front wheel to move in relation to the chassis.

I hope the above info heaps alot of people with there suspension.....

Since i have done 154,000km now im leaning towards getting
F/R H/D swaybars / IRS rear kit / Front strut mounts / Tower Bar and F/R Pedders shocks.
Because i have checked all my bushes since day one every service they seem ok for now wait until 200,000km if i make it lol.but being on Superlows thou would not help..

RIK....

 

[VYFORI]

VY V6 ECOTEC Performance Parts

F/R Nolathane Enhancement Kit $752
Front Control Arm Lower Inner / Front Strut Mount / Strut bar to Chassis / Strut Bar to Control Arm / Sway Bar Upper Link
Rear Control Arm Outer / Rear IRS Camber adj kit / rear sway bar link

Plus a rear crossmember mount $190 and a front steering rack / pinion $22
Front 03VY K-MAC part number 201811 for just a replacement bolt-on $295 adjustable $495 30mm
Rear part number 201821 replacement bolt-on $165 adjustable $395 16mm

44019 Front Strut Mount $225
45318 Front Control Arm Lower Inner $53
48166 Front Strut Bar To Chassis $194
48019 Front Strut Bar To Control Arm $36
42451 Front Swaybar Upperlink $17
46023 Rear Control Arm Outer $59
46138 Rear IRS Camber Kit $99
42174 Rear SwayBar Link $47

GDAY EVERYONE.....

As you can see from above posts i have being doing some resarch regarding handling performance parts for my VY UTE.
I phoned around today to get some prices on Performance Parts like Zorst, ECU and Manifold from places like MACE
Plus ill be going down the TURBO path so i saw a ASE V6 kit aswell....
Engine Stroker kits aswell.... here are some pics and info regarding these performance upgrades.....

Mace have discontinued the Twin Throttle Bodies .... One Left at $1500

The 25mm Plenum / Manifold Spacer $220
The 25mm Manifold Insulator $220

MACE PLENIUM MANIFOLD AND INSULATOR SPACERS

MACE 69mm THROTTLE BODY $220

MACE MAF 74mm $170

VY Manual ECU Upgrade..
HALTECH INTERCEPTOR ECU

HALTECH E6GMX ECU

The E6GMX Kit includes:
ECU Programmable Computer, Instruction Manual on CD, Programming Disk, Patch Loom,
Programming Cable, Haltech Stickers.
RRP: $1190 AUD

The 3 Options you have, a full wire in ECU (E6X)(E8)
Or Rewire the connectors and add a map sensor and you can run a E6GMX
Or You can wire a piggy back interceptor (this is the cheapest option)
The interceptor and E6GMX are two completly different units, they cant be upgraded to each other

The interceptor is a far cheaper option to get up and running than the E6GMX, but are mainly designed for guys going
the normal bolt on modifications, and will handle a small increase in injector size.

Depending on time frame of when your going to be doing different stages of the build, will depend on what computer
you want to use, if you started of with say the interceptor then and ran your low boost levels this will do for a while.

As soon as you wanted to build the stroker and step the boost levels up, you would want to be using the E6GMX.

CAPA Products...

VY IRS a New KAZZ LSD centre from CAPA is $1,975
VY CAPA Trans/Diff Electric cooler $1,425
VY TBS/HARROP Diff Sports Cover $500
VY TBS Diff Upgrade $850 includes gears (3.9.1) new crown wheel and pinon, oil bearings, labour in and out.
VY TBS Billet Adj Shifter $550
The Shifter has a 3 setting height and throw position reduction of 50%-60% so they say..

COME RACING V6 VY 4.2lt STROKER KIT..

COME RACING 4.2Lt STROKER KIT SPEC SHEET

PRO STROKE V6 VY 4.2lt STROKER KIT..

1 SET ARIAS CUSTOM FORGED PISTONS
1 SET ARIAS RACE MOLY RINGS
1 SET SCAT 5.627” H BEAM CONRODS WITH ARP 7/16" CAP SCREW BOLTS
1 SET ACL RACE SERIES CONROD BEARINGS
1 SET ACL RACE SERIES MAIN BEARINGS
1 BRAND NEW AUST MADE NODULAR IRON CRANKSHAFT 4.2 lt
THIS CRANKSHAFT HAS THICKER WEBING BETWEEN CONROD JOURNALS WHICH MAKES
THE CRANKSHAFT 40% STRONGER THAN THE STD CRANK.
ALL PARTS ARE BALANCED TO PRO RACE TOLERANCES.


ASE V6 VY SINGLE TURBO KIT $6,500

• ASE Manifold and Dump pipe
• Garrett GT4088 turbo
• Turbosmart/Tial 38mm Wastegate
• 600x300x75 intercooler
• 3 inch intercooler piping and silicone joiners with hoseclamps
• Oil drain kit including turbo feed lines
• Header tank relocation kit
• K&N pod air filter

This kit will exclude the exhurst system and you will need new fuel system too.

Here Are Some Links to Performance places

ASE
COME RACING
PRO STROKE
MACE ENGINEERING
BOOST OBSESSION
ENHANCED AUTOMOTIVE

I hope this helps people alittle bit when wanting to upgrade the ecotec...
Ill be heading down this track in the not to distant future Fingers Crossed...

RIK....

 

[VYFORI]

Ecotec info

GDAY EVERYONE.....

I thought i would give you abit of info that i found when researching our beloved taxi powered ecotec engines..
I know most of you would probably know more to this than me but i thought a good reference point for me and YOU to come back too when
rebuilding / bloweing / stroking N/A or supercharger/turbo low compression / High compression ecotecs like some people are doing now.
Plus alittle history aswell.

HOW IT ALL BEGAN......

17 August 1988 VN was born
Holdens 3800 VN-VP-VR model engine was not bad of a motor but Noise, Vibrations and harshness problems plagued the engine and holden thought the
engine was getting old and needed a freash start to fix those problems.
Holden solded about Half a million VN-VP-VR models over a six year period.
The problems with the motor was becasue it had little refinement resulting in such problems like vibration and the rear main seals
also had a habit of leaking too.
Power wise the V6 was quite a grunter with 125kw Flywheel and 292Nm of torque at just 3200rpm not bad for the daily driver back then.
But too many warranty reapirs to rear seals and media bashing about niose vibrations.

October 1989 saw some minor changes to the engine like smaller lift but larger duration camshaft, single value springs were fitted intead of
double value springs like in series 1 (these engines are still considered series 1)
Changes to the rocker arms and replacement of steel pushrod guide plates to aluminium plates.

November 1990 the V6 was given a major upgrade to improve its NVH levels series 2
The changes were to its camshaft thrust plate, timing chain and the addition of cast exhaust manifolds intead of the
Flowing tubular steel header on series 1.
Other changes to V6 was the oiling system and bearings plus the area of the rear main seal which now can be removed
instead of pulling out the crankshaft first.

The crankshaft was also changed at the rear mating face, the flywheel/flexplate attachment points recieved
a 8 bolt patten that was compatable with automatic and manual transmittion becasue previously series 1 had
2 different bolt pattens 1 or manual and 1 for automatic.
Series 2 engines are identified by their water inlet being located at the front of the engine not the back.
Plus no water tranfer tube on the drivers side of the engine.
The crankshaft on series 2 cannot be fitted to the earlier model because of the redesign of the man rear seal.
If you have all the associated pieces most of these changes can be retrofitted.

You can tell the difference between the 2 VR-VS engines with the ECOTEC engines having a EV6 stamp on the block.
Sptember 1991 the VP was born
July 1993 the VR was born

April 1995 The release of the new VS saw a hole new V6 ECOTEC engine which was pretty much a clean slate.
Only keeping the internal dimensions of bore and stroke and therefore capacity.
It had a 13% more power over the VR.

Sorry ran out of time again ill post the finishing touchs like specs etc etc.. tommorrow thx ...

RIK....

 

[VYFORI]

Ecotec info

GDAY EVERYONE...

Holdens New 1995 VS ECOTEC V6 not only produced more power at 147kw but had a better fuel economy than the 130kw VR model by 5%.
It was due to less internal engine friction, better combustion process and drivetrain control.
Using thinner oil control rings on the lighter pistons and rods that lower internal friction.
They also designed a better more efficent cambustion camber design to help the combustion process.

VR's compression is 8:5:1 and the VS's compression is 9.4.1
The pistion and connecting rod assembly are different to the VR.
The VS Piston had a reduced length by 25mm, a Crevice volume was reduced 33% and Top ring tension was reduced by 8%.
The Piston was tin plated and reduced in height given a floating pin and Reduced 10% of the rod mass.

The Intake Manifold was changed with the plenium having side air entry, a larger volume and belt mouthed inlet.
The intake runners was optimised 290mm in length.

Holdens new V6 ECOTEC Cylinder Block received some treatment aswell with a reduced deck height of 25.4mm which made it more compact and
4kg lighter than pervious model.
Interference caps for improved alignment and cross bolted main bearing caps too.
The block was now more compact height and width which allowed more clearance for accessories mounted externally.
Because of the inproved caps and main bearings which is a race configuration, the crank was retained STRONG UNMOVABLE CRANK
At the back of the block were the rear main seals had problems was solved with the introduction of a aluminium cradle.
The cradle retained the seal and also allowed extra oil to travel to the rear balance shaft bearing.

The VR heads had non symmetrical cambers and ports but the V6 VS ECOTEC heads had a revised design featuring symmetrical cambers and ports.
The heads had a new lighter mass of casting, the valuetrain cosisted of cast steel rockers that were mounted on roller bearings and pedestals.
This resulted in a stiffer valuetrain that allowed higher RPM.
Both intake and exhaust valves were of larger diameters to improve the power which allowed people like us to modify to get bigger gains.
Thinner oil-control ring seals of an even lower friction was used to help reduce and decrease friction

Piston and Rod assembly was reduced in length and mass to improve rotation which results in a higher reving ecotec engine
The oil pan was made of cast alloy to help engine rigidity with 0-ring seals to stop leaks.
VS onwards Ecotec engines are setup for MAF (manifold airflow) have Airflow meters which is a hot-wire mass flow meter and it helps in
fuel consumpion and to maximise economy.

That for read and your comments are most welcome... before you start i know there are more differences than this like twin knock sensors but
i was just trying to fill you in in some information i have found reading and reasearching are beloved ecotec engines....

RIK...

 

[VYFORI]

V6 ecotec supercharged engines info

GDAY EVERYONE....

While i was talking about non supercharged engines above here is some info on supercharged ecotecs aswell...

Supercharged V6 engines started out and began life as a powerplant used only for Stateman and Calais models.
It had 171kw of power and 375Nm of torque at just only 3000rpm.
The only performance application to date for this motor was the XU6 with 180kw.
The XU6 had a Eaton M90 Supercharger pumping low boost into an 8.5:1 compression engine with alot of potential for improvement.

The main problem was weight and the vehicles they were installed into.
Statesman and Calais owners usually fitted them to there cars because of V8 insurance costs.
Engine uses a ECOTEC bottom end with lower compression but the top end is totally different.
You cannot bolt a factory supercharger blower / manifold to a standard ECOTEC engine as the injectors in the factory supercharged engine
are mounted in the heads instead of the manifold.

This means you have to buy supercharged heads aswell which is not cost effect and very pricy.
Forget about the VN-VR V6 altogether so much work involved its not even worth thinking about !!!!!

RIK...




RIK...

 

[VYFORI]

Vy v6 ute suspension upgrade parts

VY TBS/HARROP Diff Sports Cover $500
VY TBS Diff Upgrade $850 (3.9.1) new crown wheel and pinon, labour in and out.
VY TBS Billet Adj Shifter $550
The Shifter has a 3 setting height and throw position reduction of 50%-60% so they say..

K-MAC Rear part number 201821 Adj. SwayBar $395 16mm

Nolathane Parts
44019 Front Strut Mount $225
42451 Front Swaybar Upperlink $17
46138 Rear IRS Camber Kit $99
42174 Rear SwayBar Link $47
Rear Crossmember mount $190

Pedders Sports Ryder Front Shock Strut Disontinued on complete units now.
Pedder Adj Coilovers F/R Fitted $2,330 just the front is $915 i think.
Front Sports Ryder $508
Rear Sports Ryder $244
4658 Pedders Strut Bar (Tower Bar) $200

GDAY EVERYONE.....

Been thinking the past week or so and have come to the decision the above parts are
what im looking for to upgrade my Suspension / Handling and Trans/Driveline.
The Nolathane Bushes im going to replace at 200,000km.
Havent decided on the shocks or coilovers yet ?? means i wont need strut mount /shocks
Trying to keep it the price down decisions decisions.....
Ill post pictures of the parts as i get them and install them..

Any advice would be of great help thanks

RIK.....

 

[VYFORI]

Nolathane Suspension

GDAY EVERYONE.....

Been a month and a bit since last post but i have purchased the the following....
Nolathane Bushes

46138 Rear IRS Camber Kit $99
42174 Rear SwayBar Link $47
49145 Rear Crossmember mount $190
46023 Rear Control Arm Outer

The help reduce axle tramp and IRS Kit for alignment with Rear swaybar link too..
Since its a rear wheels drive i diddnt buy the $400 rear swaybar yet... still deciding that one...

Maybe spend it on rear pair pedders shocks $244 Rear.. ??? just dont know.. lol ..
Its a ute but i havent had big loads in it just my surfboard and the odd Bed. rear shocks still good
just the front that maybe need some attension....

The idea is to help improve performance while replacing the parts as they fail with better aftermarket parts but at the same time not to spend to much big dollars doing it.. Trying too lol ...hehe

Nolathane Website

Nolathane VY REAR CROSSMEMBER MOUNT BUSHES.

RIK...