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VT 304 heat??

gtrboyy

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Yep short snout water pump might give you enough room...gave me just enough clearance to fit au fans in lc torrie
Short snout needs different pulley & shorter bolts,make sure cast impellor!!!!

2 x10" no chance
16" single,not much better unless cold weather.

Otherwise flat plastic fan & custom shroud is only option if cant fit decent thermofan...au fans & ugly plastic with shroud only things kept mine cool.

Having condensor covering front then rear sealed with shrouding like that will only trap heat in even when driving as air cant flow through radiator.
 
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EYY

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Would an electric water pump make any difference.
I'm not sure, I've never had anything to do with them. Might be worth investigating?

Something else worth noting is that from the factory, most models had a piece of plastic underneath the front of the car that directs the air so that it's pushed up between the condenser and radiator when you're driving - another pretty important piece of the puzzle. Without that it's always pulling air through the hot condenser when the aircons on, even at speed. You could make one very easily, or adapt one from a commodore
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The issue there is definitely the "plate". It's blocking most of the radiator and the fans are only drawing through where they are actually mounted. Pull through is the only option with fans, I wouldn't recommend push through. Mounting the fans to the radiator like that without the red plate is better than the set up you have, it exposes more of the radiator to the surrounding air. Pull the plate off first and run it and see how it goes.
 

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Hello EYY, AU thermo fans wont fit. Yes the polarity is correct ie the air is going over the engine.

Haven't thought of the water pump and NO power steering. Current pump is stock. I think its working as the rad pipes are getting hot and then the over flow is working.

Interestingly I measured my other radiator width. The installed one is 32mm thick and the spare is 35mm - both were out of 5L V8 cars... Would the 3 mm make that much difference??

I've ripped the plate off and the condenser too. Going to give a run tomorrow or Friday.

I'm thinking maybe a third fan wired to the first fan in the centre in front and pushing with no shroud - this would mean no oil cooler and would have to find some where under the car for that.
 
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Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The fan at the front will never flow as much as the air it would get by driving. It will be a restriction. The only time it will be an advantage is slow driving or stationary.
 

nes138

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So gave it a 20 min run with out the shroud piece and the condenser removed and it never went above 98deg. Interestingly i walked out and back in when it hit 88 deg and noticed BOTH fans were on. Baffled as to why when one should have started at 95deg.
Another weird thing is with the POD on it idles at about 1050rpm and eventually stalls. With the POD off it seems to idle at about 950-1000rpm and doesn't stall.

I'll run again tomorrow with POD and condenser on/in to see if it'll run correctly temp wise.
 

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Can't tell if got airbox or not but run better with pod enclosed so it doesn't send vt ecu & maf sensor spastic...air temp sensor clips into airbox for more consistent reading other wise it's getting hot air,cold air then even hotter air when fans turn on.

Sometimes fans go on if it hits limp mode can be simple fault,check codes.
 

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Forget the pod filter. The iat and maf sensor will be the problem. Make sure that the maf is kept in the original location at the original orientation (not rotated), and that there are no immediate restrictions or bends in the intake directly before or after the MAF, otherwise you'll have problems.

What is triggering your fan speeds? Are you running the vt bcm too? Have you had the ecu retuned?

Also make sure that there's a decent air gap between the radiator and the condenser. Looking back at your shroud, did you have at least an 8mm gap between the radiator and the surface of your shroud? (I know you've removed it, just looking for an explanation).

Are you able to upload more photos showing your clearance issues?
 

Immortality

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Well that is an improvement :)

As much as I agree with others that the fan in front of the radiator isn't as efficient it may be the only real option in this case. With the current positioning of the fans you aren't getting any cooling over the lower 3rd or the radiator which definitely won't be helping the situation.

Do you have the POD filter directly on the MAF which looks to be connected directly to the TB?

With it setup like that it will be sucking in hot air when running which will make the engine run hotter too. Also probably not getting a accurate air temp reading from the sensor that is normally located in the airbox which will crew with the tuning. I suggest moving the intake further from the engine where it won't suck hot air. Normally I recommend the MACE CAI but it might not be classy enough for this built. Suggest maybe trying the factory style air box or fabricating something yourself to enclose the filter away from engine bay heat.
 
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VK SL 3800

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As suggested above, bolt the fans direct to the radiator without the shroud. I would also stagger them on at the top and one bottom similar to the factory layout so every tube gets some airflow long the line.

I do remember reading Fans are more efficient when pushing the air rather then pulling but as is there should be no reason for it to get hot.

Where have you got the temp sender located, the VT only ran 1 sensor for the PCM from memory and the gauge got it reading from the PCM.

Have a feel of the radiator hoses when its hot, if the radiator is working the bottom hose will be considerably cooler by touch especially with the fans on flat out, and if it is cool the problem is elsewhere like a sticky thermostat.

Another thing to fiddle with is the shrouding around the sides and bottom/top of the radiator, you can get a recirculate effect happening in the right circumstances. It probably isnt the cause of the problem but some shrouding all helps just the same.
 
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