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[VT-VX] VX Commodore Service How To Detailed

Discussion in 'Holden Commodore How-To's' started by edals, Nov 21, 2009.

  1. edals

    edals Active Member

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    Service

    This is my own creation to help give you a idea on how to service you car. Like to think of it as kind of a dummies guide hehe.
    I take No responsibility to anything you attempt your self, this is simply a guide to help you in the process of serving your car. I am not a mechanic, This is just simply the process i do to service my car If you are not confident in performing anything below , Please get you local mechanic to perform the work. Hope this guide helps in some way to help you save $

    Oil Change.
    Slide under the Front of the car, With a Suitable container at least 5L capacity. Also Lay down a towel if working on the drive way to avoid oil spills on the concrete.

    Remove the Sump Plug, Using a 19mm Socket. Allow the Oil To Drain
    [​IMG]

    Once Oil has drained, Remove Oil Filter. Using Hands, Oil wrench, or if the Filter will not budge, Use a Screw driver and put through the filter, and turn the whole filter to remove as a last resort. Note This Will Be messy, Place a towel or another container below to catch the oil.
    [​IMG]

    After Removing Oil Filter & Oil, Dispose of correctly by your local council regulations.

    After Leaving the oil to drain, Make sure dripping has Stopped.
    Replace the Sump Plug & Replace sump gasket. If you don’t replace the gasket, Expect Leaks!

    Locate your new Oil Filter. You Can Use a Ryco Filter Part Number Z154 Or a GM Holden Filter. Contact Your Holden dealer for Details, They cost about $10-$15.

    With Fresh Oil, I Use Valvoline 10-30 Engine Armor as recommended From $35-$45
    Using your finger, Place some fresh oil around the rubber gasket on the new filter.
    Pour Some fresh oil into the new Filter, about 3/4 full or 2cm from the top of the filter.
    Screw the new oil filter on where you removed the old filter.
    Screw the filter on till it contacts the main surface, Then tighten firmly, About 2/3 of a turn.
    DO NOT over tighten, If you over tighten, You can warp the seal, Then you will have leaks.
    Once the new filter has been installed, and the sump plug has been replaced, On the top left side of the engine (looking front on), open the oil cap.
    Pour fresh oil into the engine using a funnel. The capacity is 4.8Ltrs.
    Remove your dip stick, located at the right front with a yellow pull tab. Clean the Dip stick with a old rag, Then check the level again. Wait 10 mins to be sure all the oil has gone to the sump, then check the level. The level should be at the full line locate on the stick.
    Oil Should Be changed Every 6 months or 10,000kms, Witch ever comes first. It is also recommended to check oil level weekly.

    Spark Plugs And Leads.

    Located On Both side of the engine, Are 3 spark plugs Each side.
    Located here.
    [​IMG]

    Depending On the the brand of spark plug, They should be changed from 20,000kms up to 80,000kms. With Holden GM plugs, They should be replaced every 40,000kms. Brands Such As NGK, Bosch or GM Holden Plugs
    The Process is the Same per side, Remove the Ignition lead boot from the spark plug, It maybe firm so pull by the boot, NOT the Lead, Then remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket & Wrench or Spark Plug Swivel Tool

    Remove Each Plug One at a Time!! If you pull all the leads off at once, You will run into trouble knowing witch lead goes where and your engine timing will be all wrong.
    After Removing the Spark plug, Install the new spark plug, do not over tighten, just till firm is all they need.
    While the lead is removed, Test the Lead with a multi Meter. cylinders 1,3,5 should be Less then 10,000 Ohms, cylinders 2,4,6 should be less then 17,000 Ohms. If Any Leads are higher, Replace ALL the Leads. Bougicord Are original branded leads.
    Same Procedure, Replace One Lead at a Time to avoid confusion.
    Cylinders 2,4,6 can be quite difficult due you have to feed the leads under the alternator with black protective tubing, If Tubing is cracking, replace (or use Zip ties I Found easiest)
    Be Careful not to bend or pull on the leads as you can damage them.
    Once Lead is checked or replaced, Push Lead boot firmly onto the new spark plug.
    Check Over you work to make sure all leads are firmly in place.

    Air Filter.
    Very Simple Process Replacing the Air-filter. The Air filter should be changed every 40,000kms

    Locate your Air-filter Box, On The Front Right Side (looking at the engine)
    [​IMG]

    Unclip All clips around Airbox, Lift The Top Cover Up, And remove the Filter.
    Then install new filter, Place Top cover back on and redo the clips. Be sure to reinstall filter with metal grill facing up.

    Fuel Filter.
    The Fuel Filter should be changed every 40,000kms
    The Fuel Filter, Located at the Driver side rear just inside on wheel.
    [​IMG]

    Pop the Bonet. Remove the Fuel Pump Relay in the fuse box just behind the battery Shown here. Read The Reference Guide so you pull the correct relay out.
    [​IMG]

    Jump in the car and crack the engine till it stalls. This will depressor the fuel lines. After the engine stall, Disconnect the Battery, Removing the Negative terminal, You want to avoid sparks when working around fuel.
    (BE SURE TO HAVE YOUR CODE FOR YOUR RAIDIO) You will need to re-enter the code after disconnecting the battery.

    Jack the Rear of the car up Via the Diff and place car stands in appropriate locations. Safty FIRST! Or Reverse the car up on on ramps.

    Locate the Fuel Filter as Shown below.
    [​IMG]

    I Highly Recommend to purchase the fuel filter removal tool, As the Clips on the Fuel filter are very easy to break and you will need to replace the Whole fuel line to the.
    I Bought This Kit from Auto barn,
    [​IMG]

    Find a suitable container, place below the filter.
    WEAR SAFTY GOGGLES. You Don’t want fuel in your eyes, it burns a lot. Flush your eyes with water if fuel spills into your eyes.

    Place the Tool over the clip, Push the Hose towards the filter, Then press the tool to release the clips, then remove the hose. This may take a few goes and can be tricky.
    After removing both hoses, Remove The Old Filter and mounting strap, The New Filter should be supplied with a new mounting strap.
    Check the Filter for Flow direction, It will display a arrow or a OUT symbol on the filter.
    Push the fuel lines back on the filter until they are fully pressed in firmly.
    Install the New Mounting strap and clip the filter back in.
    Lower the car, Reconnect the battery once all tools & fuel are removed from under the car.
    Reconnect the Battery terminal.
    Turn the Ignition on, Allow the Fuel Pressure the build before starting the car.
    Start the car (Note the car may cough slightly due to lack of fuel for a second or so)
    Double Check the Filter just popping your head under to check for leaks.

    While You are Under the Bonet. Check Power steering & Coolant levels.

    Hope This Guide has Been Useful in some way. I Have Got lots of information From Just Commodores, And I Hope to contribute more to the site.

    Let Me know of any Booboos i have made.

    Cheers :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2010
  2. Sabbath'

    Sabbath' Road Boss

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    Nice writeup yet again.

    In addition, you can negate the use of the fuel line disconnect tools by pushing the fuel line towards the filter and then depressing the two plastic tangs. A wiggle and a pull should have the line disconnected. It's probabaly not as easy to do on the floor as on a hoist, but it's another option to buying the tools.
     
  3. edals

    edals Active Member

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    Yeah, I tried doing it with out the tool, and could not get it to budge, So You can try with out the tool, But i found it much eaisr with it :)
     
  4. Maxseverity

    Maxseverity New Member

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    I couldnt get it with either =S lol
     
  5. HarmlessMuffinMan

    HarmlessMuffinMan New Member

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    Very good thread. I have a question.

    When I first got my VX commodore about 2 months ago, I replaced the leads, the spark plugs, the oil filter (New oil of course), did pretty much everything above (Including air filter) except for the fuel filter (If I'm honest, I was used to working on a CM Valiant... Aaaaaand I couldn't find the fuel filter :p). But I am having the same problem as when I first baught it: Shit fuel economy.

    Shes an EX undercover car, so has the chip and such (Though I know for a fact they are supposed to return BETTER fuel economy then stock), shocks breaks. All the good crap.

    To give you an Idea of how bad it is, stop starting I will only get around 400K's to a tank. Traveling from NSW to QLD I got about 650-700 (So its ok on the HWY but it should be better, around 6.6 - 7.5 according to the internet, where as mine is 10l/100k)

    When it iddels it sounds a little bit rough. normaly this would be sweet, in the val you just fiddle with the dizzy till you get that perfect awesomly sexy idle... But Commodores don't have Dizzys.

    Any ideas? Its costing me an arm and a leg to run and I don't have the money to get it serviced because all my spare money goes on freeking fuel!

    Could the front fan belt have anything to do with it? It seems a bit worn (Like cracks in the rubber), but surely that can't cause it?

    Pwease hewlp me ^_^
     
  6. edals

    edals Active Member

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    Hey Mate.

    I Would replace the Fuel Filter, If its blocked it cause cause economy issues.
    THe Filter is on the driver side rear, just up behind the tank a bit, its easy to see and get to.
    But i only ever get about 700kms freeway driving and 500ish city driving.
    But I Have kept track and my avg is 8.6, those figures are a bit low, mazda 3s avg only about 7-8
     
  7. HarmlessMuffinMan

    HarmlessMuffinMan New Member

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    Alright. I will try that.

    Also looking over the car idels at 1.2k, so I am going to adjust the accelerator boss so it idels around 700 or 800 (The lower I can get it the bestter IMO). Also will be repacing the belt, and a mate is going to help me replace the oil sump because the sump screw is jammed and compelatly and utterly ####ed. Ill let you know how it goes (Waiting on money :p)
     
  8. edals

    edals Active Member

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    That Idle is WAY to high, It should be between 650+ / 750- RPM, and you should not be changing it as it is set by the ECU. I would disconnect the battery for a little while and let the whole car reset.
     
  9. HarmlessMuffinMan

    HarmlessMuffinMan New Member

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    Alright Ill give that a go tomorrow morning and see where the Idel is at after that.

    Sure the cops didn't purposfully wind it that way for some reason using the accelorator boss screw?
     
  10. straycoot

    straycoot New Member

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    Dammn Leads

    This is not easy to remove leads-Mine are stuck-any ideas on removal-Twisting and pulling dosn't do it?

     
  11. Jode

    Jode New Member

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    Your fuel economy is normal. The low fuel light comes on about 400-420 but you have about another 80kms city driving left in your tank. Start driving on your trip computer rather than fuel guage and you will get about 480kms city driving. i get up to 520kms but that is running it to about 74 litres.
     
  12. Jode

    Jode New Member

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    Having serviced both my VT exec and VX Supercharged since new I would add just the following. Very good post by the way! Clean around sump with a rag first. Get an oil drip tray. Clean the sump plug thoroughly abd around the oil filter mounting and oil switch lead after filter removal. Beofe installing the sump plug, flush about 200ml through the engine from the oil filler on top to flush the grit out so clean opil comes out the sunmp oil for a few minutes. Leave the fuel filter. It doesn't need changing for about 100K and put it in to the dealer for that. It's cheap enough and you want it done properly. Buy genuine parts from Holden. I pay $6 for the oil filter and $10 for the air filter, I change the air filter every service. Genuine parts are cheaper than Ryco. Build a rapport with rapport with your spare parts guys and you will get trade.
     
  13. Jode

    Jode New Member

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    I wouldn't bother with brake fluid flushes, coolant flushes, power steering flushes. Just keep them topped up after brake pad changes etc. The rest shouldn't alter anyway unless there is a leak. These are just reasons for Holden to do work on your car. I have 150K on my VT, 1o years old and 135K on my VX supercharged 8 years old. Both in brilliant condition in fact a local dealer mechanic offered to buy BOTH from me he thought they were so well looked after. I haven't once changed brake fluid, power steering fluid. each car has had one fuel filter around 100K only becuase i thought I would change them not becuase they stuffed up. Neither car has had a wheel alignment since I got them both set perfectly 7-8 years ago. Also don't ever get disks machined. simply replace brake pads. The car will stay new if you do this. Overservicing is really what kills them. If it's not broken in my view, don't xxx you know the rest.
     
  14. Jode

    Jode New Member

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    C orrect. Idle is set by cpu but you can adjust the screw behind to raise the idle! One problem is if the butterfly valve is a bit warped it won't close off completely even if you wind the idle screw back to zero. As you know it's the air which is controlled....
     
  15. edals

    edals Active Member

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    Brake Fluid should be changed at least every 2 years, Brake fluid attracts moisture, this equals in poor brake pedal feel and you are damaging your whole brake system cause theres water in it.
    Power steering Fluid does brake down, Should be changed every 2 years also. Its $20.
    Coolant should be changed every 5 years or 250,000. As sludge deposits can build up in the system, Again its $50 for some coolant and preventing corrosion in your system.
    And the Fuel Filter, They are $10, Change it, takes 5 Mins, i did one on the VY, take fuse out, crank till it stalls, push and unclip the quick release connectors, filters get blocked with crap, and can cause problems when they are very blocked, IE poor performance & Fuel Eco.
    This is not over servicing, This is the Min Requirements by Holden. I Dont see how it could possibly kill them for having fresh fluids over old broken down fluids.
    I Have driven poorly serviced Holdens and have run like a heap of shit compared.
     
  16. kniever

    kniever Active Member

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    lmao, im sorry but you clearly have no idea what you are talking about, overservicing kills your car??? WTF???
     
  17. edals

    edals Active Member

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    If the Leads have been on for quite a long time they can be pretty hard to remove, pull at the boot of the lead, twist and pull, they can sometimes cause a suction effect. they will come off though, i have hurt my hands many times cause of this hehe
     
  18. EXC55V

    EXC55V LS1 Goodness !!

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    JODE mate ... you have no idea do you mate.. when you were typing your response, did you listen to your brain saying 'hang on, is what im typing right?'
    I guess not
     
  19. HarmlessMuffinMan

    HarmlessMuffinMan New Member

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    Do you think I'm idiot? Seriously, lol, what he hell. Clearly i'm not going to look at the trip computer with 80 k's left and go "E-gad, its empty". 400K's per tank was running it right down 64LT's. Remember I said ex squad car, so naturally it has an after-market tank, which is only 65LT's.

    If you get 520k's from a 75LT rank running around town, your car either has poor fuel economy, or you drive like a total wanker. The VX and VT alike have a stop start fuel economy of 11LT per 100k's, meaning you should get 650 - 680 k's around town. My mate looks after his VX VERY well (Constant services and such, which DON'T kill it, honestly who says that?), and he gets 650 k's per tank stop start.

    on your current figures which you have given me, you are getting 14.4L/100k's, which yeah, really not good.

    My old Fuel Econ is 16.24 stop start, And I have improved this to 13.8... Meaning I now get around 470 per 65LT's.

    Seriously though, I have to ask... Is your car just pooly maintained? Which by your other comments I am guessing it is... Or do you treat it like shit and thrash it everywhere you go like a true commodore driver?
     
  20. Tutty121

    Tutty121 New Member

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    i know this post was posted awhile ago. But it was a help thread for people trying to service there car. and turned into people having ago at other people for there experiance. All everyone said in this thread is true. If your commodore motor has been thrashed and not maintained this will higher your fuel rate. When a car is well maintain it will lower your fuel. The only way i can see to lower your fuel use without playing with the ecu. is changed your fuel filter because when you use unleaded fuel that isnt as clean as say 98 petrol. it will have junk in it that the fuel filter will pick up and start blocking the filter, Plus if your running ur tank down to nothing this will make it worse as all the crap thats in ur fuel tank is at the bottem of it and ur sucking it all up, So fuel filter is numb er one. Spark plus would be two. Shit spark plugs wont spark even if you clean them prople they wont. Get a new set of sparkys so that the sparks nice and big so the fuel can burn, More spark less fuel. And number three is the air filter, so the car can breath. thats what id be doing first, plus oil and oil filter of course :)
     

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