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VZ alloytec v6 belt tensioner removal

Discussion in 'VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)' started by v6rick, Jul 19, 2010.

  1. v6rick

    v6rick New Member

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    Can the fan belt tensioner arm with the roller be removed from base without causing and problems in refitting ?
    i wish to change bearing in roller it would be easier to remove arm it has one bolt to secure it but bit warey it may all spring apart or have problems putting it back on

    the reason cant remove base of belt tensioner is because one bolt is behind steering pump wheel which i been having trouble trying to remove it

    can anyone help here be much appreciated
     
  2. v6rick

    v6rick New Member

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    OWN ANSWERS NO BELT TENSIONER ARM CANT BE REMOVED ,,,,HAVE TO REMOVED TENSIONER ASSEMBLY COMPLETE TO CHANGE PULLEY BEARING
    bearing required very common sprint a good place to get then 4.50 each TIMKEM 6203VVCM goes in tensioner pulley and same for idler pulley
    I worked out a soltuon to changing serpentine belt tensioner pulley bearing....first remove engine covers plus radiater couling also power steering resevior move aside and or ( hoses optional ) to resevior,,,,,,,second draw a diagram of serpentine belt of how it goes around pulleys it can be a nightmare to put back without diagram remove serpentine belt use a 1/2 rachet placed in tensioner levering it to loosen serpentine belt and remove ......the power steering pump is held in place by 2 bolts with a 13 mil head the bolts are located top and bottom of pump heads facing towards front of car you use a socket and rachet throught the holes in the steering pump pulley once bolts are removed jiggle pump out enough for accesss to the tensioner base plate mounting bolt so can be removed....three remove the bolt in middle of tensioner dont worry nothing gunna fling apart and also the other mounting bolt then removed tensioner assembly.....unbolt roller knock out old bearing iether press new bearing in or use a lage socket that will fit around outer edge of new bearing and tap into roller carefuly and evenly or sqeeeze in using a vice preferbly........may as well do ider bearing as well same method..reistall components and you just saved a fortune as compared to paying somebody to do it for you
     
  3. dorteerts

    dorteerts New Member

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    No need to remove tensioner base plate. Just remove belt as described by relieving tension on pulley then undo the bolt that holds the tensioner assembly in place. Nothing will fly apart. Replacement is reverse. There is no need to remove the tensioner mounting plate from the block.
     
  4. CH40TC

    CH40TC New Member

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    Infact you do need to remove the whole assembly on a VZ Alloytec as the tensioner pulley's bolt head faces the engine timing cover and cannot be undone without removing the whole assembly, there are three bolts, one in the centre and two on either side of the pivoting arm, Just did this myself as I have now installed the Powerbond PBK007 20% underdriven pulley kit on my 05 Ute and had to change both idler and tensioner pulleys, If you are planning on changing the bearings I would recommend just replacing the whole pulley with the Nuline branded ones as they are made by Precision Parts in Wagga Wagga and are superb quality with a heavy duty bearing too or if your up for a weekends work and have some cash to spare for a quick Kw add on you could even chuck on the balancer kit like I did, not a major increase in power but still noticeable and engine even seems to idle smoother with the new forged steel balancer fitted!

    Cheers, Ben.
     
  5. dorteerts

    dorteerts New Member

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    I just did mine and I only undid the centre bolt. Mine is different even though it is a VZ Alloytec. It is a VZ Cross 6 Crewman built 2006. These are a little different to some other VZ Alloytecs. They have two serpentine belts, two tensioner pulleys and one idler pulley. You do not have to undo all the bolts on these models to replace the tensioner pulley. In fact Ben we are both right or both wrong. Depends on which way you look at it.
     
  6. kubsnazx

    kubsnazx New Member

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    Once youve taken the belt off, then removed the 2 bolts that secure the tensioner base, what exactly happens next?

    Im doing this myself, masses of noise coming from the roller..
     
  7. richardpalinkas

    richardpalinkas Blown Alloytec

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    undo 2 bolts that hold the power steering pump to the bracket have to be removed. they are directly behind the pump pulley, on the top and bottom. after that, wriggle or pry the power steer pump away just enough to get to the third bolt for the tensioner, but be careful, its a pain in the ass to get the power steer pump back in the right spot

    there are 3 bolts that hold the tensioner on.
     
  8. kubsnazx

    kubsnazx New Member

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    incase i still cant work the bolts back in, any clues how to install the pump back on... I got the bolts out, installed the tensioner and cant return the pump bolts back in. Cant see fk all either, im assuming stuff needs to line up in 2 or 3 places per bolt.. The bottom bolt is all the way in but wont take up the thread, the top bolt wont go any where..
     
  9. richardpalinkas

    richardpalinkas Blown Alloytec

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    I gave the bolts a tap with a hammer just to make sure they were all the way in. Told u its a bugger lol. Try prying the power steer pump from the ac compressor, also what I did
     
  10. crumpledoor#1

    crumpledoor#1 New Member

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    I know this is an old thread but I used it as a guide to replace the idler bearing in my VZ Calais. PLEASE NOTE: That the above bearing code is not correct for the idler pulley bearing on the 190kw Alloytech that are in the VZ Calais range. The correct code for the idler pulley bearing is 6204. They are also not as cheap as $4.50 (maybe they were back in 2010), got mine from Sprints for $11.95, still bloody cheaper than paying some rip off mechanic to do it.

    Also to remove the Idler Pulley all you need to do is remove the shroud covering the top of the radiator & remove the air intake tube, use a 15mm socket on the idler pulley bolt and out she comes nice and easy. Recommend the use of removable locktite on the bolt when re-assembling.

    The only other thing I can say is....aahhhhhhh the bliss of not having the whining noise!!!
     
  11. rambunctious

    rambunctious Member

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    Very helpful info from this thread, I used it all to replace the bearings on both the tensioner and the idler pully at a cost of $12 for the two, however, the idler pully

    bearing on the VZ Exec Wagon was 6303.

    Another thing I did was while the power steer pump was all the way out (I levered it out with a large screwdriver and no need to remove the hoses), I lightly filed the

    inner front face of the bracket which made it waaaaay easier to get the steer pump back in and bolted up. About 5 rubs with a good file is enough.

    edit 19-5-2014...The new fan belt still gave a small squeal when moving off at low revs so I have installed a new tensioner, so far so good.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014

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