VZ Alternator Change

[andyman]

From what i've managed to find out it's the other way around, the VZ's dont have regulators and talk to the computer, the VE's have a regulator.

I dunno, I've been assured it will work. So I'll put it in and find out.

no its the way i said, which you think is the other way round but isnt, its completly the opposite.... get it?


the rvm system is the reason why ve's had initally flat battery problems, cause the ecm was allowing the alternator to pump enough juice out, its also why the ve's have an ammeter built onto the earth lead, and vz's dont

 

[andyman]

also you do realise that the alternator DOES NOT continuasly output 120amp, if it did it would fry your battery everytime the car was running,

a normal vz, with no light on, just stocko stereo etc and a decent battery they alt will only put out about 40amp max while running


im still running 100amp alt, i have a full alpine stereo, dual battery setup that powers my fridge, and shortly when my trailer is on the road, it will have a deep cycle battery up to a dual battery isolator hooked upto the car too,

ive tested it and with what i mentioned without the trailer, but with car lights on i couldnt get it over 70-80amp output

 

[Danoz]

also you do realise that the alternator DOES NOT continuasly output 120amp, if it did it would fry your battery everytime the car was running,

a normal vz, with no light on, just stocko stereo etc and a decent battery they alt will only put out about 40amp max while running


im still running 100amp alt, i have a full alpine stereo, dual battery setup that powers my fridge, and shortly when my trailer is on the road, it will have a deep cycle battery up to a dual battery isolator hooked upto the car too,

ive tested it and with what i mentioned without the trailer, but with car lights on i couldnt get it over 70-80amp output

Andy, I think you are wasting your breath mate (or keystrokes in this case). Let him go.. :rofl2:

 

[andyman]

Andy, I think you are wasting your breath mate (or keystrokes in this case). Let him go.. :rofl2:

i know but i like having the last word haha <<<^^^ cah ching :blah blah: haha

 

[Torquative]

Hey Andy,

on that score my car was an EX NSW Police unmarked car as your aware, and it still has some battle scars to proove it. It was kitted out with everything from high intensity LED dash and parcel shelf mounted strobe lights, the usual Police digital radio which is left ON 24/7, 25 watt UHF radio, onboard MDT data terminal (on board computer) plus all the other bits and pieces cop cars are fitted with these days to survive in the regional areas of NSW ... and as you've pointed out its only running a 100 amp alternator too. :hmmm:

Also Holdens has regulators since the early days, my '76 HJ and my mates 1972 HQ have alternators with regulators, why would Holden go to ECM technology for the VZ then take a step back for the car that has "all the technology" in it?

Anyhoo like everyone I wait on the results, and I raise your rum by holding a bourbon in hand

 

[andyman]

on that note have you bolted it up big daddy?

dont let what i said hold you back just go for it!

 

[bigdaddycool]

In the process of doing it now, the tensioner is a prick ........ u need to loosen it and really have a special tool to hold it in place so the belts loose......... i just wedged a rubber mallet inbetween the tension pully and another....... reefed the belt off the alternator.

prob is the alternator hits the rail, just looking at it i'd say u obviously have to undo the tread bolts as they have a socket like end on it......

really it's a simple job, but like most just a bit of a pain, i'll post again once it's in.

 

[bcw61]

also you do realise that the alternator DOES NOT continuasly output 120amp, if it did it would fry your battery everytime the car was running,


Ummm, I really fail to see how an alternator that has a load on it that causes it to have it's maximum laod rating drawn out of it, has anything to do with the battery, or cause any damage to it - unless of course the battery itself was drawing this load from the alternator. If it was drawing 120 amps, then I would strongly suggest that the battery (Lead-Acid) had one or more shorted cells (or just happened to be a discharged Nickel-Cadmium).

 

[andyman]

also you do realise that the alternator DOES NOT continuasly output 120amp, if it did it would fry your battery everytime the car was running,


Ummm, I really fail to see how an alternator that has a load on it that causes it to have it's maximum laod rating drawn out of it, has anything to do with the battery, or cause any damage to it - unless of course the battery itself was drawing this load from the alternator. If it was drawing 120 amps, then I would strongly suggest that the battery (Lead-Acid) had one or more shorted cells (or just happened to be a discharged Nickel-Cadmium).

what i was getting at, if the alternator was outputting more than what the car was using, the extra charge has to go somewhere, and it will go to the battery, that extra over charge will destroy them, remember alts only put out whats been taken out untill it reaches its limit.....

ive seen it done before, the batterys get super hot, they internally short in the plates, then they will loose all charge after a day or too of being taken off the charge, they also will be gassing like a mofo

 

[Torquative]

ummm extension from a socket set into the tensioner worked for me to loosen it to take the aux belt off to change the water pump.

Actually I think its been mentioned on the forum somewhere once or twice too

edit> quick search on google found http://www.justanswer.com/view_imag...ploads/kenbam/2009-08-24_080338_waterpump.jpg

Hope this helps