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What does a stall converter do?

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JUDDO13

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so in therory a stallie+shift kit would make for a killer auto tranny?
 

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jNINE

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I have a 'couple'
I've got a 2800rpm stall & shift kit (and a few other bits & pieces). I got the convertor made to match my cam and torque curve power outputs as well as gearing etc.

It is a bit like driving a car with a very slight slipping clutch at first but I don't notice it now. Did amazing things for it off the line though. My setup was alway good when rolling, but terrible from a standing start. Now with the higher stall you can nail the throttle and it just launches immediately at about 2800 rpm.

Around town it sits around 1600-2000rpm depending on the lockup and revs.
 

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so do stall converters make it hard to take off from the lights slowly? say, if there was a cop car next to you
 

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I have a 'couple'
so do stall converters make it hard to take off from the lights slowly? say, if there was a cop car next to you


Mine doesn't... you wouldn't even know. Drives completely normal.

I'll have to go out and take a few vids of the tacho etc and how it behaves.
 

VLturbs87

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I'm talking from having them In vl's.. they don't make it hard they just restrict your power until a certain point.. If you where at the light and say your converter is 2500 like mine on the break an throttle to just under that.. then when you take of It launches.. but if you where just 2 take of normal it'll just take that little bit longer 2 get to the speed!!!
 

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Stalled VB

Hi Guys,

One of my last cars was a 308 VB SLE. Big Heads, Crane 304 Camshaft, Pipes etc. Turbo 350 Kitted and 3.55 nine inch rear. I had a 2250 converter to start with but found it too small for the camshaft, so I replaced it with a 3500 brand new from TCD. It Killed my Takeoff!! All the car would do was rev to around 2900-3100 and spring from the line with no wheelspin at all, as when I had the 2250 it would growl off the line and once I was up to around 3000 rpm it would fry the tyres!! Big waste of money for me!! Had it Dyno'd etc and Finally put old converter back in!! Moral of the story is, Don't go too big with your converter unless you have some big power or it will act like a big spring and soak up all your Grunt!!

:thumbsup:
 

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I'm gathering that the fuel economy goes through the roof with a hi-stall?
Correct me if I'm wrong
 

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mines been pretty good actually, getting about 400 k's to a tank, 70% highway, 30% town
 

sircruisealotVS

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in very basic terms a stallie, which is just a higher rpm torque converter than that found in your transmission now, acts much like a clutch. because a car needs come to a stop without stalling you need to have a device that takes up the turning force coming from the engine. on a manual this is done with a clutch, which "disengages" the transmission from the engine.
so on a auto trans the torque converter does this job. up to the converters set rpm it can easily take the turning force of the engine, meaning you need little brake pressure to keep the car stationary at an idling rpm of say 1000rpm.
once you start applying throttle while still holding the brakes you would notice that you need more break pressure to hold the car still, this is because the converter is letting more power through. having a higher rpm torque converter means you can raise the rpm higher while still being able to hold it still - this is called "stalling up", which makes for great take offs. the ideal rpm for a torque converter is a couple of hundred rpm before maximum torque, so once you reach its stall point all power will be delivered to the wheels at once.
thats about as basic as i can explain a stallie, its tricky to put in words like this

you've got to be kidding me! thats an EXACT copy and paste of what i told you when you asked me what a stallie is and you've just passed it off as your own - you could of at least quoted me.
 
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