Hi all, not sure how many here use efilive v4 but ive been working on a new definition file free to use for anyone which has more in it, BCM, ABS, ECU, PCM and can clear codes from them all as well, unfortunaly the SRS is on another data line by itself and doesn't respond to ALDL commands.
So yeh give it a go, let me know any problems you guys have with the file so i can fix them.
VS_CommoV6.zip
Hi just tried to download the file but the link is broken, do you still have the file?
Thanks Chris
not sure if anyone's using this, but ive updated it again, fixed up a heap of the trans stuff.
how do u read this? im confused, i got the cable etc but i have no idea wat it all mean hahah is there instructions on teh net? im useing it on me vs v6
in Efilive version 4 you have to open the xml by going file and select vehicle, the select the file you download above, then your good to start logging.
hi old post i now sorry
but i got hold of the full cersion is there a way i can log data and someone can read it and tell me if everything is working correctly? (with sensors and teh memcal etc?)
if so how do i do this? drive at 100 and log or just idle or?
cheers
you can use this or use tunerpro, will give more detail, here's a starter guide here Tunerpro Getting Started with Logging Guide
I've never been able to get my cable to connect with efilive v4I think i got a dudd cable. Might have to give this tuner pro a go and see if i can get it to work.
Windows 7. Yeah from what i am aware i had com port settings the same
I tried the echo thing. Just never got it goingIt's very possible the cable could be at fault, but then im no wizz
hi, i took me vs for a drive and the software was reading that the right 02 sensor was fluctuating between 0 and 10, and the left 02 was 0-2 (sometimes 3) so i changed the sensors with some spare ones i got and now there both doing the same, left and right are now 0-5ish but when im doing 80kph+ they both stay at 0 sometimes goes up a little then down
does this sound right? did i have a dud 02 sensor? there Bosch one and the ones i put back in there are the original genuine ones
thanks
0-10 is great, 0-5 is still ok, over 80km/h lean cruise is active so o2 sensors are not used.
ah ok, well i just checked my data again and yeh it does sometimes go up to 10 and back down, but seeing teh left sensor wasnt doing this beforehand and now its moveing higher after i replaced it can i say its stuffed? (left sensor)
cheers
neither no it wasnt making the check engine light come on?
they do get slower to respond with age, so it's getting to the point of failure, engine light will only come on if they flatline rich or lean.
ah ok, well it made the car idle better lol no more miss :P
yes standard narrowband o2's dont get alot of crosscount feedback at idle, so when they get older the idle fueling can start to play up, yet it drives fine elsewhere.
ah yep makes sence
sorry for all the questions but with my o2 sensors should i aim for a pair that both fluctuate 0-10? as one was but the other wasnt (think is was stuffed)
as i have a fair few spares lol
also what should the MV reed?
and how do you tell if the maf sensors stuffed?
cheers
upto you, but as long as your getting consistent crosscounts in closed loop operation then it's working fine, less than 2 crosscounts on average in all conditions id consider replacing. typically with more throttle say 40% to keep out of WOT PE Fueling it should be getting higher crosscounts as there's more flow past the sensor to read.
o2 sensors wont have a standard millivolt, it fluctuates with air to fuel ratio, rich being higher, lean being lower, a crosscount is rich to lean or lean to rich and crossing a specifed millivolt target on both ends, depending on memcal revision this target changes, on the last of vs v6 calibrations like CKUL4113 it was 750mv rich and 270mv lean.
If the MAF sensor is stuffed then you car wont be running as it controls fueling, if it's faulty it the output frequency in Hz may not move with throttle very well.