I know this is a double post but i have not had any replies where i first posted it.
I am building a stronger engine for my turbo v6 and have realised that the stock MAF sensor will max out before i reach the 12psi i want to run.
Can i simply run an LSX MAF sensor and have the tune altered to accomodate it,
Does anyone know what the LS1 MAF is good for Hp wise??
Will i have to put a MAP sensor in, and i have read somewhere that i'll have to chance it ecu to one from a vr and have it tuned to suit??
I have a 98 series 3 auto VS ute.
This is the setup i am running
GT35 TURBO, internally gated
36LB L67 INJECTORS
WALBRO GSS342 255LPH IN TANK FUEL PUMP
BOOST OBSESSION TURBO MANIFOLDS
470x300x75 DELTA FIN INTERCOOLER
L67 PISTONS AND CONRODS
Thats it for now, it may end up with a comp cams turbo camshaft in it before the build is finnished too but its not a definate yet.
As always i appreciate any advice and feedback.
96 VS ute, L36 Auto.
Pacies, 2" catback, 18" RJR Shaddows
No more V8'S, GT35 TO GO ON SOON
You don't need to run a VR ecu. Dicks electronics uses them to utilise the factory MAP function (nothing wrong with that) or you can get a Kalmaker tune on your stock ecu albeit converted to run a MAP sensor (or both MAP and MAF if need be).
In regards to running a larger MAF, the MAF reads air flow by changed resistance due to varying amount of airflow cooling the pre heated MAF sensor element wires behind the mesh. A turb will always output hotter air than a N/A car therefore in order to retain a MAF of some sort the complete MAF table will need to be altered in order to compensate for different air temps. My stock MAF is out of scale at 190rwks by 3000rpm or so and I'd be tipping that an LS2 or 6 MAF will only see resoloution for another 1000rpms or so.
In other words, forget the MAF and go MAP
Where are you located?
I've had my L67 stroker mafless tuned by Dick's Electronics after much recommendation. Dick told me that changing to almost any cam definately throws the MAF sensor out of whack due to the different air requirements at any amount of revs. I'm sure it can still be tuned with the MAF to fix this, but you'll again run out of headway when changing to an LS1 MAF. With the MAP sensor if you're running out of headway on a 1 bar tune for example, go to a 2 bar, and then if you again run out of headway go to a 3 bar. I think Dick told me a 2 bar map tune should be good to around 17 - 18 psi.
And if you get rid of the MAF you're also free to run whatever size intake pipe you like.
At the end of the day, if you want to do it properly and have a little more freedom, go the MAP. It is more costly than sticking with MAF but it's definately worth it.
Hope this helps!
Factory 5 speed VSII, now 4.2 Litre L67 with T56 6 speed
1 bar MAP sensor is good for 0psi (atmo), 2 bar MAP sensor is good upto ~15psi. MAP is the way to go with boost.
Current mods: 22" chromies on the front, 15" stockies with whitewalls and spinnaz on the back. Stock front springs, SSSSSSSSSL rears, standard shocks all round. Painted fuse box cover. Gauges all over my bonnet in chrome caps. Massive exhaust sticker across rear window. Tinted brake lights. Front seat so far back I need to look out the rear window. Single 2" exhaust with twin 6" cannons. Chev badges. MACE 1.9:1 rockers. Pod filter, high-flow MAF, cleaned intake, stock pushrods. MACE Ghostcam. Electronic supercharger.
go map as it leaves far more room for changes in boost pressure later on without needing a retune...within reason anyway like a two stage switch for e.g.