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Thread: Ecotec torque to yeild bolts

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    Default Ecotec torque to yeild bolts

    Hi,

    I am wondering if instead of spending heaps on ARP bolt/stud sets can i just go to a bolt shop and get some high tensile bolts to replace the head bolts, and rocker bolts that are torque to yeild ???

    I cant really see the dollar value in the ARP sets, and i dont really wanna have to buy new bolts every time i open up the engine, not that i am planning it to be a regular thing.


    Are the ARP sets worth it ?????
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    Arp ftw...
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    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    ARP head and Conrod bolts are best. As for rocker bolts, go the bolt shop. Ask for hex cap bolts in the strongest steel they have, and take an old one for dimensions.
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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    Arp ftw...
    May be a stupid question but whats FTW mean ??????

    Just found some arp head bolts at a reasonable price so i might get them.
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    Just out of interest, take your head bolts in and get a price for a set of 8.8 high tensile bolts..

    ARP will be cheap in comparison
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    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    I paid about $0.50 each for some ten point something grade steel, hex cap style bolts for my rockers.
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
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    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakvsexec View Post
    I cant really see the dollar value in the ARP sets, and i dont really wanna have to buy new bolts every time i open up the engine, not that i am planning it to be a regular thing.
    Are the ARP sets worth it ?????
    If you're opening it up because you've thrown a rod, then the ARP's would have been a good investment. They won't make more power......if you're not making enough power to trouble the stock ones they are a waste of money, if you are ....they aren't.

    Simple.

    If however you are spending an escalating amount of money on parts and machining any insurance you can find is good for peace of mind.....

    Just out of interest, take your head bolts in and get a price for a set of 8.8 high tensile bolts..

    ARP will be cheap in comparison
    Many bolts are made to spec for the OEM's , you can't find dimensionally exact versions at a bolt shop , in an effort to avoid warranty claims they generally have the right stuff in the right place.... hardness, shank length, thread length and engagement but most importantly CONSISTENCY!!!! That is what high quality rod bolts have.....they provide exactly the same crush force everywhere....... Stress will attack weak points or stress risers

    Having said that I'd be surprised if there weren't people here who'd busted stuff......



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    Prior to posting this topic the best price was well over a hundred dollars for ARP head studs, now i dont really wanna use the studs because of issues with removing heads while engine is in the car, but after more research i have found ARP make head bolts too, so i am gettint the ARP head bolts and as for main and big end the stock ones will do fine.

    Unless they have a high failure rate which i have not heard about, then in that case i may think about repacing them too. but i ahven't heard anyone breaking main and conrod bolts.
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    arp headstuds have more force holding the heads down compared to arp head bolts the joys of the fine thread nut on the ends of the studs
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    unless your using FI or nitrous ARP studs are overkill for the heads.

    grade 12.9 cap screws are about equal to the base line ARP stuff and can be had a lot cheaper then ARP bolts. why bother with grade 8.8, it's only the base line high tensile bolt
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    Quote Originally Posted by immortality View Post
    unless your using FI or nitrous ARP studs are overkill for the heads.

    grade 12.9 cap screws are about equal to the base line ARP stuff and can be had a lot cheaper then ARP bolts. why bother with grade 8.8, it's only the base line high tensile bolt
    That's interesting.. I learn something new every thread

    I've got head studs for new high comp NA motor for my Ute.. had to replace the stock head bolts and I feel better about having them
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    I am going forced induction with this set up, the Arp head stud set is only 10 dollars more than the bolts so i might as well just get them.

    Quote Originally Posted by immortality View Post
    unless your using FI or nitrous ARP studs are overkill for the heads.

    grade 12.9 cap screws are about equal to the base line ARP stuff and can be had a lot cheaper then ARP bolts. why bother with grade 8.8, it's only the base line high tensile bolt
    96 VS ute, L36 Auto.
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    Where can I get some of these head studs and intake manifold bolts and rocker cover bolts on very short notice in Newcastle???

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    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    Holden? ?
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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