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Thread: ecotec and L67 ecu differences

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    Default ecotec and L67 ecu differences

    G'day fellas
    I have a 2000 VX XU6 s/c v6. Ive been having a Knock retard problem at 4500rpm which appeared a few months after i had the engine rebuilt, so i tested the knock sensors at the ecu today and when i got the ecu out the kick panel it has written on it " VT S1 auto " in pink texter.....so its had the ecu changed at some time.... now im a bit worried. How do i tell if the right ecu in the car? whats the difference between the ecotec and L67 ecu's as i have no idea what this one is or the history of the car in that respect, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on how to tell the difference between the two if any besides tune.
    any help will be very very much appreciated thanks fellas.

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    L67's ecu will have a different settings as they have bigger injectors and a slightly different bottom end. Also take into consideration that the supercharger works off the motors power.
    If it's not a Symptom its not relevant, and if its not relevant I don't care!

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    good stuff but how do i tell one from the other N/A ecotec and l67 how do i tell the memcal's apart

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    get the number off the silver sticker on the chip in the memcal
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    The L67 originally will have used a memcal-based tune, and VT S1 also does too. The differences in the ECU amongst other things relate to the boost bypass solenoid and the 2 stage fuel pump control. Since the ECU has been replaced with a different one I'd be getting the tune checked to verify whether the 2 stage fuel pump control stuff is still functional. If it's not, this could be your knock retard problem as the tune could potentially not be supplying the motor with enough fuel above 4500rpm. That said though, have you done anything to the motor, like smaller pulley, cooler etc etc? If you have, the MAF sensor may be maxxing itself out at 4500rpm which would have a similar effect as the tune will have run out of fuel and spark tables to reference to above 4500rpm.

    Hope this helps you solve your problem mate!

    Factory 5 speed VSII, now 4.2 Litre L67 with T56 6 speed

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    ballanced and blue printed, 7.5.1 forgies ,larger valves and springs, but i stuck with a stock cam for now. As for bolt ons 2 1/2" Xforce exhaust, cai and 4" intake pipe 42lbh injecters and a 10 psi pully thats it. Youve got me thinken now might try find a XU6 ecu and put it back right.

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    get the number off the silver sticker on the chip in the memcal
    then what do i do with the number or will it state the type

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    VT ecu is fully populated with all componants and should work the L67 in a VX just fine with a VX tune in it.with all them mods its gonna need a tune to suit
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    post up the number
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    VT ecu is fully populated with all componants and should work the L67 in a VX just fine with a VX tune in it.with all them mods its gonna need a tune to suit
    im doubting what you posted here is whats been done, thing is i'm worried that the tune might be for a VT n/a ecotec not a VX HSV XU6. For starters the ecu only has "VT S1 auto" written on it , you would expect a wrecker to lable it properly if it was to suit an L67 it would state that its for a s/c v6 or maybe whoever changed the ecu didnt have a clue and just orderd a VT ecu. I'll post the number up asap fingers crossed it has an l67 memcal.

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    got the number yet
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    ok the number on the silver sticker on the memcal say's" DELCO DDRJ2641"
    and on the outside of the ecu on the white sticker is
    service No- 72444 00600 1
    3.8L AUT PCM
    09351918 CJKU

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    DDRJ2641 $A5 3.8L S/C Auto 16233396 HSV XU6
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    DDRJ2641 $A5 3.8L S/C Auto 16233396 HSV XU6
    so it has had the ecu changed but kept the hsv memcal WTF wonder why its had the ecu replaced.
    is there any web sites that give this info i need to read up on this shit

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    Rob's Creative Calibrations for all the memcal listings or Delcohacking.net for more info.with big injectors and engine mods its never going to run right on a stock tune you can get pinging problems from being grossly rich its also not good for the engine it washes all the oil off the bores
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Champion...... I'm hearing what ya saying mate but ya cant actually hear it pinging ,i know that the knock sensors will pick up detonation that cant be heard over the engine but it does it at the exact same spot every time day or night hot or cold- plant ya foot it revs clean pulls hard then hits 4500rpm and its like ya puting the brakes on ive been over everything replaced nearly every sensor had scan tools put on it done diagnostics my self by bridging pins 5,6 on the diagnostic conector under the dash basically done it all except the ecu. What about what holdenmandan said about the 2 stage fuel pump will this ecu run that correctly and if so is there any way i can check to see that its operating properly?

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    Also you mentioned it was running a 10psi pulley, I imagine that running only 7.5:1 comp that you're not seeing much boost in the LIM?

    Despite this, seriously mate you should get it retuned, sooner rather than later!

    Factory 5 speed VSII, now 4.2 Litre L67 with T56 6 speed

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregando View Post
    Champion...... I'm hearing what ya saying mate but ya cant actually hear it pinging ,i know that the knock sensors will pick up detonation that cant be heard over the engine but it does it at the exact same spot every time day or night hot or cold- plant ya foot it revs clean pulls hard then hits 4500rpm and its like ya puting the brakes on ive been over everything replaced nearly every sensor had scan tools put on it done diagnostics my self by bridging pins 5,6 on the diagnostic conector under the dash basically done it all except the ecu. What about what holdenmandan said about the 2 stage fuel pump will this ecu run that correctly and if so is there any way i can check to see that its operating properly?
    everything will work fine with that ecu its exactly the same part as the VX S/C comes with stock just different memcal.it could just be going real rich up top it costs lots of power or your fuel pump may be struggling to keep up does it show knock on the scantool when it does it
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by HoldenManDan View Post
    Also you mentioned it was running a 10psi pulley, I imagine that running only 7.5:1 comp that you're not seeing much boost in the LIM?

    Despite this, seriously mate you should get it retuned, sooner rather than later!
    Yeah it droped a bit. Befor the rebuild i got what they call a 10psi pully kit it would see around 12psi at the rev limiter and now it sits about 8psi pretty much from instant up to 4000-4500rpm, and about 4500rpm where is loses power, then boost slowly builds to a bee's dick under 10psi at the limiter. The wierd part is that after the rebuld it didnt have this problem it started to do it maybe 3 months later and at that time the motor would have done easily 12,000 k's i average about 160-200k's a day so it was well and trully "run in" and all lossend up , spose its time to wipe out the savings and get it tuned problem is i dont think there is anyone in newcastle that mess with them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    everything will work fine with that ecu its exactly the same part as the VX S/C comes with stock just different memcal.it could just be going real rich up top it costs lots of power or your fuel pump may be struggling to keep up does it show knock on the scantool when it does it
    No the mechanic says shows nothing wrong but the timing is getting retarded. I should have it put on a dyno i spose but i don't like the way they charge up here just to do a quick run. Its got me beat ive changed all the vac/boost hoses, spent shit loads on new sensors and a bosch 044 fuel pump that i still have to fit, checked and checked diagnostics had it up the local mechanic that many times now that when he sees me coming he grabs his scan tool lol. One thing i forgot to mention was i put the larger injectors in after it started playing up because it recorded a lean running conditions under load so i put em in and it did nothing to fix the problem and thats where i started chasing my tail.

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    buy yourself one of these if you have a laptop delcohacking.net • View topic - FS: USB Vehicle Data Interface then you can log a drive and play it back when you get home bloody handy for finding problems will log all sensors rpm etc and show where its picking up knock and you can cross reference if its a sensor or fuel etc.you could even have a fuel tank pickup issue and its grabbing gobs of air instead of fuel under hard accleration commodores are bad for it hence why i run surge tanks and external pumps on every setup i build
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregando View Post
    Yeah it droped a bit. Befor the rebuild i got what they call a 10psi pully kit it would see around 12psi at the rev limiter and now it sits about 8psi pretty much from instant up to 4000-4500rpm, and about 4500rpm where is loses power, then boost slowly builds to a bee's dick under 10psi at the limiter. The wierd part is that after the rebuld it didnt have this problem it started to do it maybe 3 months later and at that time the motor would have done easily 12,000 k's i average about 160-200k's a day so it was well and trully "run in" and all lossend up , spose its time to wipe out the savings and get it tuned problem is i dont think there is anyone in newcastle that mess with them.
    Hmmm well as you've had the comp lowered that far i imagine you'll be wanting to add more mods later on? I'd suggest removing the MAF out of the equation altogether and get a mafless tune done. There's a bloke in the outer southern sydney suburbs which did mine and he's absolutely awesome! Dick's electronics 95435544, give him a call and tickle his brain! He can run datalogs with everything you can think of, particularly of interest in your case would be wideband o2 along with knock retard. People come from everywhere to get work done by him and being in newy doesn't make it that far in the grand scheme of things lol.

    Imo thats the best way to go about it mate, if you want more info pm me

    Factory 5 speed VSII, now 4.2 Litre L67 with T56 6 speed

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    yeah dick will sort you out hes a good chap
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    buy yourself one of these if you have a laptop delcohacking.net • View topic - FS: USB Vehicle Data Interface then you can log a drive and play it back when you get home bloody handy for finding problems will log all sensors rpm etc and show where its picking up knock and you can cross reference if its a sensor or fuel etc.you could even have a fuel tank pickup issue and its grabbing gobs of air instead of fuel under hard accleration commodores are bad for it hence why i run surge tanks and external pumps on every setup i build
    have you got one of these if so what program do you use for it

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