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Thread: Head studs???? and main studs

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    Default Head studs???? and main studs

    Hi, probably a very dumb question but I'v bought a ecotec engine to pull down and rebuild so I can learn about engines and how they work and how they go together and I have striped it down and is ready to goto the machine shop in the morning and I was just looking at MACE and they have ARP Main studs and Head Studs are they to replace the original bolts from the main bearing caps and head bolts? because I didn't see anything like that on my ecotec

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    Yes they are mate. They are much stronger and is recommended for a rebuild...talk to Steve at mace he will guide you through good luck
    Don't Knock My Turbo Lag, It Gives Your V8 A Chance

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    if your going to get main studs make sure you get them before machining as they need to hone the tunnel when installed
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pub247 View Post
    if your going to get main studs make sure you get them before machining as they need to hone the tunnel when installed
    I know quite a few that torqued the mains with studs and galleries were still in spec. My self included. Proper way is to hone but at $180ish it's a waste if not needed
    VYII Calais L67

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    Well that may be the case but youd want to check it an oval tunnel doesnt fit a round crank and bearings
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SirNemesis View Post
    $180 for an align hone vs. rebuild if they aren't as round as you thought they were. I know which option I prefer (and did...).
    Even an engine rebuilder wouldn't deem a tunnel hone to be required if he miced it as in spec. I agree if something fails a rebuild and lost time is always unrecoverable yet if a correct mechanical technique is applied then that sort of makes risk almost obsolete imo. Remember, a tunnel hone can be done incorrectly as well and even after the hone is done it will again be checked with a bore mic. Still room for error twice?
    VYII Calais L67

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    how is risk obsolete? studs have a higher torque rating the extra clamping force applied generally compresses metal more which in turn would leave it out of round I know this from experiancing it first hand many, many times
    You have to be an idiot not to check something after you machine it how would you know if its right? its alway better to do a little at a time and checking as you go instead of say doing a 10thou cut in one hit and assuming it's right
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pub247 View Post
    how is risk obsolete? studs have a higher torque rating the extra clamping force applied generally compresses metal more which in turn would leave it out of round I know this from experiancing it first hand many, many times
    You have to be an idiot not to check something after you machine it how would you know if its right? its alway better to do a little at a time and checking as you go instead of say doing a 10thou cut in one hit and assuming it's right
    Not been contradictory to anything you just posted mate. Read my above post again and it may be clearer?

    All I'm saying is to fit and torque the ARP main studs and then check for round with a bore mic. Only if it's outta acceptable spec do you then get your $180 odd and add mains tunnel hone to the list of other machine work that's already required. Taking meat out where it's not needed or in aid of rectifying an issue is wasted cash and time of the already busy machinists and is also poor mechanical practice.

    Just trying to give the OP a heads up that machining mains bore after fitting mains studs is not always needed. A bore mic costs less than a tunnel hone so it's only food for thought as my shit's all sorted so I don't really GAF lol
    VYII Calais L67


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