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Thread: VT V6 Hi-stall. yah or nah?

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    Will be interesting to see how it holds up and drives.

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    Hi stall is in. I did corvette servos while I was at it. These converters are fantastic. They behave much like a stock converter when your driving like granpa, maybe stalls up about 100-200rpm higher, but when you give it the berries it flashes up to just under 2700rpm. Lock up is still there so cruising on the hi way isn't an issue either. The place where I've noticed the biggest difference is when your cruising at about 60-70kph and mash the pedal, it just flashes up to 2700rpm instantly and slingshots away. I'm very happy. Now bring on the Raptor blower)

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    Quote Originally Posted by showbags View Post
    Hi stall is in. I did corvette servos while I was at it. These converters are fantastic. They behave much like a stock converter when your driving like granpa, maybe stalls up about 100-200rpm higher, but when you give it the berries it flashes up to just under 2700rpm. Lock up is still there so cruising on the hi way isn't an issue either. The place where I've noticed the biggest difference is when your cruising at about 60-70kph and mash the pedal, it just flashes up to 2700rpm instantly and slingshots away. I'm very happy. Now bring on the Raptor blower)
    Great result. I think a decent converter behind a stockish engine is a great idea when combined with a moderate diff ratio increase as you get the benefits of a great take off from a standing start (much like fitting 4.11's instead of 3.45's) and also great get up and go when cruising and yet still retaining decent cruising revs. thanks for the feedback.

    With a blower fitted you'll find that the stall speed will increase a little more but that's not a bad thing at all with a centrifugal blower

    cheers
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    So from my understanding you should buy a torque converter to match the rpm of your max torque, right?

    My dyno sheet says 345Nm at 3150rpm, so should I get a 3000rpm torque converter?
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    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    OK so I talked to the torque converter guy today, apparently the impeller and turbine (?) are from an old converter and they are sent away to be heat-treated to stronger than factory and then you get all new bearings, etc.

    And they can make them to whatever stall speed you require.

    I will be going and talking to him face-to-face tomorrow, and taking my cam specs and dyno sheet so we can work out my optimal speed.

    If anyone has any questions to ask him, type them up and I will ask him for you.
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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    Quote Originally Posted by acarmody View Post
    So from my understanding you should buy a torque converter to match the rpm of your max torque, right?

    My dyno sheet says 345Nm at 3150rpm, so should I get a 3000rpm torque converter?
    For drag racing yes it is ideal. As long as they keep the converter nice and tight so it acts like a stock one until you mash the go pedal and retain the lock up function it should be fine on the street.

    If you get enough people interested maybe someone will want to arrange a group buy

    Cheers
    Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
    the Legend will live forever

    VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition



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    Quote Originally Posted by acarmody View Post
    OK so I talked to the torque converter guy today, apparently the impeller and turbine (?) are from an old converter and they are sent away to be heat-treated to stronger than factory and then you get all new bearings, etc.

    And they can make them to whatever stall speed you require.

    I will be going and talking to him face-to-face tomorrow, and taking my cam specs and dyno sheet so we can work out my optimal speed.


    If anyone has any questions to ask him, type them up and I will ask him for you.

    Yeah I have a question for your guy. "What stall torque ratio will he be shooting for with the converter?" If he can't give you a straight answer may be time to cough up the dollars and get something a bit more dynamic
    VYII Calais L67

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    Quote Originally Posted by chargedvx6 View Post
    Yeah I have a question for your guy. "What stall torque ratio will he be shooting for with the converter?" If he can't give you a straight answer may be time to cough up the dollars and get something a bit more dynamic
    Ok just so I don't look like a dick when I ask the guy. In my particular case, my car creates 350Nm of torque at 3150rpm, so if I get a (hyperthetical) 3150rpm torque converter and he has a STR of 2.0, then my transmission input shaft would see 700Nm of torque at 3150rpm? Am I even close, or am I way off?

    I will ask him what STR he aims for though.
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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    After reading this.. Selecting The Right Torque Converter By Phil Parsons

    I thought about my convertor.. and it's fairly loose and stalls at 3000rpm in my setup. So STR must be fairly high.

    Mash the gas from standing still and it's skids on!
    Last edited by westerlybreeze; 13-01-2012 at 08:42 AM.
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    Go with a higher stall...grab something around 3200 rpm...its only going to slip up on you around town starting up...once you get driving the converter locks up and and you will rev at the same rpm as you normally would (assuming you are buying a stall with lockup capabilities, which you should unless you are strictly drag racing)


    I'm not sure what forum rules are as far as linking to other forums, but here is a link to another v6 site that I am on that I posted a stall faq on (which I stole from a bunch of other sites , anyways it should answer a lot of questions you or others have about stall converters Stall FAQ - FirebirdV6.com/CamaroV6.com Message Board

    one thing I highly recommend is getting an extra tranny cooler because your temps will go up drastically with a stall and can kill your trans pretty damn fast...coolers are pretty cheap though.


    another benefit to stalls that most people overlook is the shift extensions...basically this just keeps the motor from falling out of a certain rpm range. For my car I wont fall below 5000rpm when the car shifts...so when I did my dyno pull the car started at 5000rpm at 100km/h and went to 185km/h by 6000rpm...torque curve was flat as can be while hp just sky rocketed. On a stock setup the car would normally start from 3500-4000rpm. So basically your getting that power your motor makes up top much earlier.
    1996 3800 camaro- Heads/Cam, 4.10 gears, Ford 8.8 rear end, stall, SD tuned

    Current best: 13.6 @ 97.05 mph
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    FWIW, I daily drive a car with a TCI 3800 Super Street Fighter stall for my V6 Firebird. I've got ported heads/intake pretty good camshaft setup and longtube headers. I get around 21-22mpg city driving only with my car. So efficiency isn't too bad even though when it is cold it takes a while for it to finally go into lockout at cruise but most of that can get tuned out but I've been too lazy since I'm going to a manual trans anyway.

    I really recommend that you put in a transmission cooler if you do get an aftermarket stall. This will help prolong the life of your entire transmission/stall.
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    ●Whisper Lid●60°Inc. Heads & Intake●Intense S1X Cam●YT 1.7 RR's●FFF LT's●TCI 3800 stall●

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    So I just went it picked mine up.

    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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    Quote Originally Posted by WarShrike View Post
    FWIW, I daily drive a car with a TCI 3800 Super Street Fighter stall for my V6 Firebird. I've got ported heads/intake pretty good camshaft setup and longtube headers. I get around 21-22mpg city driving only with my car. So efficiency isn't too bad even though when it is cold it takes a while for it to finally go into lockout at cruise but most of that can get tuned out but I've been too lazy since I'm going to a manual trans anyway.

    I really recommend that you put in a transmission cooler if you do get an aftermarket stall. This will help prolong the life of your entire transmission/stall.

    Ive never had an issue with lockup like you suggest...although the car does rev a tad higher to get into gear when it is cold. Make sure you tune out the pwm parameters as well, or that will damage your converter.

    I dont know what your other guys holden pcm programing looks like, or if you guys are supported by hp tune software as well...if your not Id be interested to see if your programming can work with our pcms, and what kinda support you guys have.
    1996 3800 camaro- Heads/Cam, 4.10 gears, Ford 8.8 rear end, stall, SD tuned

    Current best: 13.6 @ 97.05 mph
    Current goal: 12's

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    Quote Originally Posted by LETZRIDE View Post
    Ive never had an issue with lockup like you suggest...although the car does rev a tad higher to get into gear when it is cold. Make sure you tune out the pwm parameters as well, or that will damage your converter.

    I dont know what your other guys holden pcm programing looks like, or if you guys are supported by hp tune software as well...if your not Id be interested to see if your programming can work with our pcms, and what kinda support you guys have.
    Hi Mate,

    check out the delcohack website.

    Most commonly we use the tunerpro based software for tuning
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    From what I have seen our ecotec engines produce more torque in the low rpm range when compared to the US L36 3800 s2 engines due to our intake manifold design (especially if you have the MACE spacers fitted). With that in mind i'd recommend a lower stall speed converter then the US guys are using.

    I think any US forum users who have converted to our intake manifolds would agree

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    Quote Originally Posted by acarmody View Post
    So I just went it picked mine up.

    What stall speed you end up getting?

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    drove through Brisbane in peak hour with a 3000stalli on my vr that had only coil-packs, rebuilt motor recent, stage 1 cam, and full manual auto box.. it just liked to free rev until 1300rpm, but that was any time you drove it from a stop.. after that it was fine, unless you were hard on brakes it didint in-gauge till 3000rpm then.. but i can tell you, they are Lott's more fun! haha

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    I ended up just getting the 2500rpm, he said for the daily driver that would be better. He gave me the choice of going higher but I didn't think that would be wise, most places I've read up about these, it recommends a stall speed about 600-700rpm less than the peak torque point.

    Chargedvx6, he said they try and retain the factory STR.
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    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
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    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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    Sounds like the same as my one. A hell of a lot more fun than a stock stall)

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    hey scott-95 what diff gears did you run in your vr? or just standard ratio? cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by acarmody View Post
    I ended up just getting the 2500rpm, he said for the daily driver that would be better. He gave me the choice of going higher but I didn't think that would be wise, most places I've read up about these, it recommends a stall speed about 600-700rpm less than the peak torque point.

    Chargedvx6, he said they try and retain the factory STR.
    Thanks for the feedback. Not sure how they go about retaining stock STR whilst raising the stall speed but I don't build converters for a living lol.

    Interested to hear your thoughts after it's fitted. I'd film a few WOT 0-100 runs pre and post install. That way you can time any difference accurately and safely during playback
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    Quote Originally Posted by chargedvx6 View Post
    Thanks for the feedback. Not sure how they go about retaining stock STR whilst raising the stall speed but I don't build converters for a living lol.

    Interested to hear your thoughts after it's fitted. I'd film a few WOT 0-100 runs pre and post install. That way you can time any difference accurately and safely during playback
    I would have gone more in depth in the questioning but I was running late for work. To be honest I think the guy I was talking to was one of thier office staff and doesn't work on the stallies themselves, and was just saying stuff he may of picked up from the mech's. Like he was knowledgeable but not in-depth, if you know what I mean.
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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    Just a bit of a update. Now after going from a stock converter and 3.08 diff to a 3.46 and 2500 histall my fuel economy has gone from around 15 ltrs per 100 km to 12.3 around town and on th highway it's gone from 12.3 to 9.7. Just an added bonus I wasn't expecting.

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