how much do they go for and is there any way of keeping the electro-magnetic clutch. Would they be loud cause the 4psi is noisy as.(i wanted a sleeper but everytime u change gears it draws 2 much attention). Thinking of changing the bov. Its running a standard gtr bov.
I know that once you upgrade the pulley (~6psi is max I think, otherwise the blower shits itself) you can no longer use the clutch, its always running. Also, I'm pretty sure that you need to upgrade the BOV (someone mentioned it a while back). I want a supercharger so bad!
i think the way that most people have been doing it is by running the TB before the SC. This makes it heaps less noisy and you no longer need the shitty BOV
Panda, would you be able to do me the favour of taking a picture of your SC intake from above and either PMing it to me or posting it here??
Originally Posted by pandacav
Heheheheh, you think its noisy now? $ 300 will get you a 8 psi pulley kit from CRS.
I know what your thinking..... 8 psiwoohoo.
Well actually your right , but not that easily.
No you dont need to change your memcal or have it remapped to run 3psi.
BUT! Your air fuel mixture MAY become dangerously lean, especially on the 2 rear cylinders. A quick inspection of spark plugs will clear any doubts.
If you really want to run 8 psi with the pulley kit from CRSyou will find that you will be needing your memcal remapped before you take to the streets. Also a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, hi-flow fuel pump, larger injectors, 2 bar MAP sensor ( Non ecotec ), Lots of Dyno time and a shitload of cash, will help... When i was playing with these kits i found the car would start and idle and even rev freely in neutral, althought it blew a lot of fuel smoke.
Put it in drive or in 1st gear and take off.....As soon as you place the engine under load and open the throttle as much as to create enuff vacuum to close the (constantly venting) blow off valve, the inlet pressure soars up to almost 8 psi confusing the absolute shit out of the engine management system causing an eratic mis-calculated fuel compensation. Put simply.... you could get out and run faster.
Ideally it makes sense to stick with a stock CRS kit for 2 grand and be happy knowing that you can hold your own against most 5 Ltr 185 Kw commodores.
Hope this make your decision easier..
Oh and moving the throttle body to before the blower sounds and both works great, but involves another manifold be made , or purchased from CRS $150.
Then you can do away with the plastic bosch BOV supplied in your kit. Nearly forgot, NO there is no way of keeping the clutch operation if you chose to up boost. You will need to destroy your existing pulley to make the new one as it uses some of the existing parts.
dunno bout everyone elses kit but mine came wiht a limit switch i put under bonnet and i can drive round wiht it off all the time and only when i boot it it comes on
do others have a switch?
i keep hearing its to noisy when passing cops
Greenfoam and I have experimented a bit with ECU remaps to suit a 6psi pulley... with a standard 1 bar map sensor and a set of bigger injectors (supercharged 6 ones)...
you do not need to get a rising rate pressure regulator, or a bigger fuel pump...
just some bigger injectors.
This tune isn't optimal, but it will get you out and about cruising comfortably, and eventually you can cruise to the dyno shop if you want a proper 2 bar setup etc.
Luke.
whats a good injector for a vt2000 v6 anyone?
hmmmmmmmmmm
10psi??
Max i seen is 8psi kits an DAMN they get hot..
Cheers
MaT
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Originally Posted by garth
mine runs between 6 & 8psi, depending on the weather![]()
when i rev the car with the supercharger on it tends 2 stall when it revs down wats the go.........
IAC valve?
more about your setup?
whats an iac valve, my setup crs kit, pannel filter, 2.5 catback, manual, is that what u wanted????
vp luke what pully do you have on your car
can you take a pic please
i'll answer some questions
you cant run the clutch with any smaller size pulley except the standard one
the blowers get hot because the inducer manifold is so close to the TB, the air has nowhere else to go, unless you run a cooler, then the air can be slightly releived through the intercooler piping. the blowers shit themselves because of the heat (flourine resin coating on the rotors), not neccesarilly the rpm's.
running anymore than 6 psi is a no no not only because the BOV will melt, but the engine will ping due to the heat. of course an aluminium BOV will not melt but it will soon seize up due to the heat.
running the TB infront of the blower will not make much difference, maybe a little less sound but thats about it.
8 psi is ball tearing wheel spin action and very fun until the blower heats up.
you WILL need a rise rate fuel reg.
the standard sensors on the engine are fine up till around 10 psi without tuning.
it would be best to run an aftermarket memcal.
you will need bigger injectors for anything above 6 psi. there is no need for 36lb super 6 injectors, bosch 775's are fine.
higher boost will make the engine stall after a big rev because the MAF is too close the blower. you MUST move the MAF as far away as possible.
ALL this info is from MY personal experience. ive had a hell of alot with the 1ggze blower unit.
i hope this answers most of your questions. if not just ask!
edited:
Apparently IBLOWN is talking MAF and i'm talking MAP.
I suppose there are different ways to go about the setup, depending on if you're vn-vr or vs onwards..... sooo the following information is applicable/correct for vn-vp
you'll only need a rising rate reg if you're not going to tune it memcal style... if you do a chip you can control air:fuel ratio all the way through the rev range, and so long as your injectors are big enough to provide enough petrol, you can tune it to specific A:F ratios, not rely on raising fuel line pressure to get mixtures right for you.
All standard Sensors will all work fine vn/vp where there's a MAP sensoor used, if you want to fine tune the beast when it's at boost, you will need a 2 bar map sensor which will allow you to fine tune anything up to 1 bar boost (15psi ish)
I can't talk about maf sensors and blowers as i've never played with them.
I'm running 6psi pulley, there's photos somewhere around, maybe in the 'my ride' section?
Last edited by VN_Luke; 03-06-2006 at 04:12 AM.
but even after a few small taps of the accelerator it sounds like its gonna die in the ass. Im running 4 psi with the electro-magnetic clutch.
yes they do that
cause comp and everything is out of wack
mine does it too
solution...dont tap it boot it![]()
no, thats not the solution. i said move the MAF as far away as possible. i used to use a motorbike sock airfilter just to get the distance
would a tuned memcal make a difference?
yes it would
what is the maf and how and where do i move it.Originally Posted by IBLOWN
cheers andrew
its that big square sensor that used to be just infront of the airbox. it is a vs isnt it?
year its a vs, extended the maf from the supercharger about 400-500mm from the supercharger made no difference i was thinking of putting a limit switch so when i take off it turns on and when i back off its off that would stop it stalling and put an overide switch 4 the cops. IBLOWN if u got an other ideas helps us out mate.
Last edited by pandacav; 06-06-2006 at 05:05 PM.
it will only be stalling due to the MAF being too close. i had my MAF nearly touching the front apron. i even mad a right angle pipe coming off the blower manifold for the MAF to sit even further. is your flow straightener still in the MAF? (the honeycomb thing)