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Thread: what do i need to run 10psi

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    Default what do i need to run 10psi

    Hi I have a vn v6 that I am going to turbo and need a some help the vn has about 300.000k on it what do i need to get it run 10psi i have got a t3\t4 turbo and all the little bit, turbo manifolds, Wastegate with 9-11 PSi spring.
    thank

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    It will blow the head gasket, i would be putting a gasket kit through it first, but a couple things would be bigger injectors 39-42flow, double valve springs, 2 bar maps sensor, all the nitty grittys, do you have a full turbo kit?
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    yip 2 bar map sensor 36lb SC V6 injectors and give it some head and inlet gaskets should be good to go. you can do it without the gaskets but it sure beats pulling all the manifolds off again to replace them when it happens.youll need a tune for the bigger injectors and 2 bar map sensor thats easy got though. should be ok for at least 16psi stock.
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
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    i'd leave the headgaskets alone for now. there is a guy on that other commodore forum that was running 19lbs on a stock VR donk and it only blew the gaskets when it overboosted to 21lbs after a boost controller failure. it did have a good tune though. he then fitted some permaseal headgaskets (couldn't get genuine headgaskets) after a quick home porting job and those gaskets failed after one pull on the dyno during the next tuning session.

    headgaskets generally blow from to greater cylinder pressures which is generally a sign of to much ignition timing

    read PSI instead of lbs
    Last edited by immortality; 05-05-2009 at 07:28 PM. Reason: dohhh
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    do i need to upgrade the ecu for the 2 bar maps sensor and V6 supercharged injectors

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    just the chip that goes in the ecu the 2 bar plugs in ok with one little peice of plastic removed.injectors direct fit too.
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by immortality View Post
    i'd leave the headgaskets alone for now. there is a guy on that other commodore forum that was running 19lbs on a stock VR donk and it only blew the gaskets when it overboosted to 21lbs after a boost controller failure. it did have a good tune though. he then fitted some permaseal headgaskets (couldn't get genuine headgaskets) after a quick home porting job and those gaskets failed after one pull on the dyno during the next tuning session.

    headgaskets generally blow from to greater cylinder pressures which is generally a sign of to much ignition timing
    totslly agree with that old gaskets would be well stuck on now and be less likely to blow. Boost and too much pressure tends to lift the heads up allowing gaskets to blow which is why head stud are great they have higher a torque and greater clamping force
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
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    Quote Originally Posted by delcowizzid View Post
    just the chip that goes in the ecu the 2 bar plugs in ok with one little peice of plastic removed.injectors direct fit too.

    do you know where i can get the chip from for 2 bar map and how much thank

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    theres a base tune on here somewhere if you know someone with a chip burner or i could slap one on a chip for you for pretty cheap
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    What about a intercooler do i need it and do i need to upgrade my brakes.

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    hi would any one know where to get the t3\t4 turbo oil lines and fitting from to a vn s1 v6? thanks

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    its a fair job to turbo something that was never ment to be turboed.
    to start off with the static compression ratio im guessing will be quite high so you would want to run some lower comp pistons, proberly some forged alloy ones as well to cope with the added heat from a charged intake.
    Fuel system needs to be able to cope with rising air flow so you will need bigger injectors and most likely a better than standard fuel pump.
    a descent head gasket is a good idea, not sure if holdens have much in the range of multi layer steel or even copper hea gaskets but they would be ideal over a standard graphite style.
    new set of head bolts or some head studs if avaiable to keep the head down.
    then you got your cam and head gear, your going to have a charged intake now so you want the valves to open up a fair bit to allow as much air in with out restriction, so either a different camshaft with increased lift and duration or some different ratio rockers to open the valves further but ideally you would want more duration as well.
    The aftermarket rockers would increase valve speed while opening the valves further so valve seats would suffer over time, plus you would want some descent valve springs.
    if the standard head doesnt flow very well under boost then might help to do a radious cut on the seats and port them in and ex out slightly to increase flow capacity.
    not sure what the standard chambers look like but im guessing there not ment for much turbulence so some chamber manipulation would be good.

    open up your intake with a descent sized t/b.
    one of those mace engineering spacers on the plenum would be a good idea as well.

    IMO i wouldnt be turboing a 300,000km old n/a i would be stripping it down before running 10psi on it.
    also are you only single turboing it or twin?

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    upgrading brakes is a good idea, as all this extra power your gonna need to stop, dont skimp on tyres either, no point having a killer braking system running nankangs as its just gonna lock up anyway.
    cooler is ideal no point sticking 10psi of hot charge into the engine, although you could toy with a water injection kit to cool the charge.

    gonna need a descent ecu as well plus someone who knows there commo's well for tuning.

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    if youre after some big injectors, speak to me

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    Quote Originally Posted by dons vs View Post
    its a fair job to turbo something that was never ment to be turboed.
    to start off with the static compression ratio im guessing will be quite high so you would want to run some lower comp pistons, proberly some forged alloy ones as well to cope with the added heat from a charged intake.
    Fuel system needs to be able to cope with rising air flow so you will need bigger injectors and most likely a better than standard fuel pump.
    a descent head gasket is a good idea, not sure if holdens have much in the range of multi layer steel or even copper hea gaskets but they would be ideal over a standard graphite style.
    new set of head bolts or some head studs if avaiable to keep the head down.
    then you got your cam and head gear, your going to have a charged intake now so you want the valves to open up a fair bit to allow as much air in with out restriction, so either a different camshaft with increased lift and duration or some different ratio rockers to open the valves further but ideally you would want more duration as well.
    The aftermarket rockers would increase valve speed while opening the valves further so valve seats would suffer over time, plus you would want some descent valve springs.
    if the standard head doesnt flow very well under boost then might help to do a radious cut on the seats and port them in and ex out slightly to increase flow capacity.
    not sure what the standard chambers look like but im guessing there not ment for much turbulence so some chamber manipulation would be good.

    open up your intake with a descent sized t/b.
    one of those mace engineering spacers on the plenum would be a good idea as well.

    IMO i wouldnt be turboing a 300,000km old n/a i would be stripping it down before running 10psi on it.
    also are you only single turboing it or twin?
    do some research mate, just a heads up,the 3800 buick (stock 8.5:1 CR, perfect for boost) will run 10psi all day with a stock engine just fine as long as it's in decent condition to begin with . as i mentioned earlier, plenty of people run a lot more then 10psi boost without issues on stock engines. for 10psi all you will need is bigger injectors, 2bar map and tune to suit. stock fuel pump can handle if in good condition. stay away from rising rate regs too. copper head gaskets suck, always leak unless you use chemiweld in the coolant from the first start. factory gaskets with some headstuds should do fine but you won't have issues at 10psi unless you have a crap tune
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    ^^ agreed with everything he said

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    are you only single turboing it or twin
    single turbo
    just got intercooler on the weekend 600x300x76 would that be about the right size. Thanks all the info will help a lot

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    yeah that should fit fine

    1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
    Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
    1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
    9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD




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    injectors, tune, turbo, cooler, boost gauge and a 2 bar map sensor. I run 12psi on a daily basis with a heavy foot through an internaly stock v6.
    Matt
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    wow didnt realise the v6's ran such low static comp, i figured they would be up around 9 or 10:1 at least.
    Sorry i build jap cars so used to different tech.

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    ecotec runs 9.4CR and they will live with 10psi all day as well. hell proflow was running 14psi i believe on a stock engine. then they upgraded the headgaskets to cometic MSL and pumped up the boost. the V6's certainly aren't high strung like jap 4cyl engines
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    good to know cheers.
    how do theyt handle with high comp? wouldnt mind sticking some 11:1 in this spare engine i have

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