hey all!
i have just got myself a 5.0L EFI from a VR SS. im about to start removing all the fuel injection to run with a carby backed with a TH350 box. is there any parts that i am required to use and fit? ive been told to use an electronic distributor from a black 308! is there a shaft required on the elec/dissy to be inserted into this type of motor, still not a 100% sure? Can anyone give me a part# or something like that from a reputable brand ie msd
cheers
oh yeah and fuel pump types, enternal? these will have to be wired directly into the ignition with a relay wont they? are holley pumps any good?
ive got all the basics sorted ie. headers, intake manifold....on the manifold topic - which is a reccomendation to use s/plane or d/plane....im leaning towards a harrop s/plane hirise manifold.
Also does anyone know if these motors are made with factory clearances for the 355 stroker kit as i dont wana have to go through all the drama of machining
these are the best:
HOLDEN V8 253-304-308 Distributor Ready 2 Run 50,000v (eBay item 220738827763 end time 15-Mar-11 11:59:43 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
cos they are cheap. get the HEI unit changed and get it graphed for whatever cam you are going to use. otherwise i believe itll fit straight in.
fuel pump for a carby will have to be a low PSI type, like a holley blue or red, carter black etc. carbies can only handle around 6-8psi. i run a carter black and a holley fuel regulator, havnt had a problem with either. i have wired mine up to always on, due to the fact that tachometric relay doesnt have scope for priming the pump (if left for a while, all the fuel will evaporate from your fuel bowls), so you would have to run a push button switch as well as the relay and i really cbf. but all that means is if i have a crash and end up on my roof, unconcious, fuel will continue to fall out everywhere and i will probably burn to death.
my book says VR series 2 may have the bores relief ground for a stroker. but DIY isnt that hard anyway.
yeah i was looking at those dissys last night yet wasnt to sure on the quallity! the ones with the built in coil are they possible to use or does it pay to run an external one? how do you mean ya pumps always on? so when ya ignition is off ya pumps still on? wired direct from your battery ??? or from ya batt then ignition then pump??? would you have the pump located nearest to the fuel tank or in the bay?
thanx for the info- just gaining as much info b4 i buy parts that are wrong or dont need!
lol, its powered to ignition 'on'. so its off when the car is off
with the dizzy, i really like the cheap ebay ones cos they have a sealed bearing for the shaft, rather than the old style which gets oil from the engine, pumped by the shaft itself (there are little grooves in the shaft which suck the oil up) the only part the cheap ones fall down is the quality of the igniter module, which is cheap enough to replace with a bosch one, or, as i have done, with a mallory MSD unit.
i would never get the coil on cap. only cos the electrical units on these cheap chinease things are CRAP! i bought a "high performance coil" off ebay and took it off after a week. the bosch HEC716's are far better up to 7k PRM.
but i recommend getting the cheap dizzy, removing the igniter module and cutting off the base it sits on (so you get more rotation out of the dizzy and it doesnt foul on the intake manifold) sending it off to get regraphed to your cam/engine specs, then installing a mallory 6AL and blaster coil. with that combo it sets you up for use with better plugs and leads and you get a more accruate tune.
didnt read the other pump bit:
a carter black or holley red needs to be installed below the base of the fuel tank. they use gravity to deliver to the pump, then they push. unlike in tank pumps which suck/push it directly. so that means that if you install it higher than the bottom, when your fuel reaches level with the pump, itll stop sucking. i installed mine on one of the fuel tank straps. make sure you install a filter BEFORE the pump too. cos they end up sucking EVERYTHING form out of the tank. and you dont want that crud going in your pump.
is this they same deal for the holley blues and blacks? cuz i was just reading up on the pumps and the reds max pressure is approx 7psi compared to a blu or blk @14psi...i imagine the blu/blks are still gravity fed?
yeah ive read b4 with the mallory 6al & blaster coil combo is the way to go!
thanks heaps
any specific type of blaster coil....theres a few different types out there....do ya go with the old style dynamite stick type or the cubed block type
i got the E-blaster coil. good for up to 7k rpm. my engine is never gonna see revs that high cos' i got the limiter on 6500. before you go buying anything, check out VPW. so far i have not been able to find cheaper prices than theirs. and they do post:
VPW Performance Mailorder
and yeah, holley red and blue are both gravity fed. one of them (i think blue) has an internal regulator so you save 50 bucks there, but they are more expensive.
Last edited by ari666; 15-02-2011 at 11:19 AM. Reason: spelling error
VPW....not a bad site! thanks for all the info