Turbo, Stroker, Nos, or all Three?!!

[Zeussy]

Well, as the title suggests, I am in need of some guidance/opinions..!

So, I had plans to just rebuild the 304 in the VN - back to stock, maybe with some flat tops.

Then a fella at work is in my ear about Nawwws! And how "hectic" it is. (I've never been in a car with Nitrous). Which is when I bring up the 'forced induction' path. Then reading a little on a random google search V8 forum, saw me very interested in the Stroker/Turbo side of things aswell. Also seeing how much a SCAT crank is worth, (blownV6's post in another thread) if it will handle F/I, got me to thinking.

I know that the whole drivetrain needs to be strengthened to suit, and the car is only as good as its weakest link etc.. But I think the gearbox slips in second - (not a real positive shift) so its gotta come out anyway!

And a brake upgrade is definately on the cards aswell. You can drive through the stock ones fairly easily

So if its going to cost me 5-6 to get it rebuilt to stock, with the auto fixed up and what ever else it needs, I may as well go all out and do it once, do it right. Then have a toy I can play with for a while and not get bored.


If I can get any tips on any of the above into a VN 304, which is the better combo, or whether I can 'live without' one or more of them, any info is greatly appreciated cause its doing my head in!!!!

This was going to be a 'budget build' but now I want the "whooopshhhh" and to be pinned back into my seat good and proper!

[Zeussy]

C'mon lads!

Will a 'normal' stroker crank, ie: SCAT 355 be able to handle boost? Chev journals?

Which rods would I need H/I beam rods?

Whats the 'behaviour' of a stroker? Would it need a turbo to be a handfull, or is a stroker enough?

Anyone had any experience with Nitrous? Even been in a car with it? Whats it feel like, how hard does it hit, is it bad for the engine etc...

Does this sound legit/sweet? Is COME ok, or go for SCAT?

http://www.comeracing.com/products/r...2030-10-08.pdf


And any other info related to the topics plzz...

[acarmody]

I would go pro-stroke before COME, just based on stuff that I've read.

Also pretty sure NOS is illegal in all states so I wouldn't bother. Here in QLD I know its illegal just to have the gear in place, regardless if you even have a tank in the car.

[fuzzy2308]

all Three ........

[Reaper]

I'd go LSX conversion these days. Better bang for your buck.

Reaper

[Zeussy]

I would go pro-stroke before COME, just based on stuff that I've read.

Also pretty sure NOS is illegal in all states so I wouldn't bother. Here in QLD I know its illegal just to have the gear in place, regardless if you even have a tank in the car.

Hmmm, (in NSW) I was under the impression that it was legal to be in your car, just not hooked up to the bottle, can be mounted etc - so its easily use-able for the drags, but if you get pulled over can tell if you have had it hooked up/using it on the street?

I may want to look into that a little more before going down that route.

Thanks for the tip on COME, I thought it was the price people stay away from, not the quality? Good to know though.

all Three ........

Thats what I'ma thinking

I'd go LSX conversion these days. Better bang for your buck.

Reaper

I can see where you're coming from, I was very keen on a 6L a little while back, but by the time I spend $10,000 + on getting an LSx motor on board, I'm in no way going to be happy to leave it 'standard' so theres more money on top of the initial outlay...

Granted end result would most likely be better, but for the same money as a resonably standard LSx into something, in comparison to the same money spent on a 5L I think it could be a close call?

Might do a bit more research on the LSx side of things before gettng too into the 304.




The short to mid term plan is/was something along the lines of build up a (probably 355) stroker - that can handle boost, (bottom end). But, still with the option of being able to run F/I if I'm still keen on that side of things.

I just want to get it started/most of the big money spent while I can, before the missus starts talking nonsense about moving out again...

I don't think it will end up being a daily, but a fairly aggressive weekender/occaisional drag strip kind of thing.
Theres a good chance the motor won't stay in the VN all its life, so its not like it would be a complete waste of money - when I'm happy with the performance side of things, but bored with the VN, swap it out into either the VH, or maybe a HQ...

[Reaper]

I can see where you're coming from, I was very keen on a 6L a little while back, but by the time I spend $10,000 + on getting an LSx motor on board, I'm in no way going to be happy to leave it 'standard' so theres more money on top of the initial outlay...

Granted end result would most likely be better, but for the same money as a resonably standard LSx into something, in comparison to the same money spent on a 5L I think it could be a close call?

Might do a bit more research on the LSx side of things before gettng too into the 304.




The short to mid term plan is/was something along the lines of build up a (probably 355) stroker - that can handle boost, (bottom end). But, still with the option of being able to run F/I if I'm still keen on that side of things.

I just want to get it started/most of the big money spent while I can, before the missus starts talking nonsense about moving out again...

I don't think it will end up being a daily, but a fairly aggressive weekender/occaisional drag strip kind of thing.
Theres a good chance the motor won't stay in the VN all its life, so its not like it would be a complete waste of money - when I'm happy with the performance side of things, but bored with the VN, swap it out into either the VH, or maybe a HQ...

A LS conversion with OTR and mafless tune will be roughly equal to a very high end stroker Holden motor leaving a ton of upside when you get rich again. Plus being a lighter motor it will help with weight distribution somewhat. Even a 5.7 would go great and they are cheap these days.

Reaper

[VKCOMMO]

A LS conversion with OTR and mafless tune will be roughly equal to a very high end stroker Holden motor leaving a ton of upside when you get rich again. Plus being a lighter motor it will help with weight distribution somewhat. Even a 5.7 would go great and they are cheap these days.

Reaper

I'm in agreeance with Reap.. But then again, you have already got the 5L so you've already started along that road.

Just for personal interest, what will the car be in the end? Race, drag, show etc...

RE: NOS, I was also under the impression that you could have the full setup in NSW, as long as the bottle wasn't connected..

[Zeussy]

A LS conversion with OTR and mafless tune will be roughly equal to a very high end stroker Holden motor leaving a ton of upside when you get rich again. Plus being a lighter motor it will help with weight distribution somewhat. Even a 5.7 would go great and they are cheap these days.

Reaper

Damm you Reaper!! Opening another huge ass can of worms!
Was up till 11ish looking on ebay for a damged/wrecked VZ 6L, or even a GenIII, And must say was pleasantly suprised with the price of them...

Then I saw a damaged V8 wagon - 4WD, and thought VH + V8 + 4WD = ####ing weapon of mass destruction.

Then I realised this was spiraling out of control, looked at the clock and thought shit I've gotta be up in 5 hours, best go to sleep.

Will definately be looking into that avenue before getting too involved in the 5L.

I'm in agreeance with Reap.. But then again, you have already got the 5L so you've already started along that road.

Just for personal interest, what will the car be in the end? Race, drag, show etc...

RE: NOS, I was also under the impression that you could have the full setup in NSW, as long as the bottle wasn't connected..

Reaper always knows best. (unfortunately in this case!)

In the end, aiming for an angry "every other day" / weekender, that can hold its own at a drag meeting, and not get shown up by too many ricers on the streets...
Its only a VN Berlina, nothing special, not worth showing, plus working too much lately so no time for shows etc...

Only thing with Nos, is if thats all thats done to it, daily it will just be like stock, and if you want to use it/drag a ricer off at the lights etc, its not supposed to be hooked up, so either run the risk and leave it hooked up, or never get to use it when you want it..

[ari666]

VH + V8 + 4WD = ####ing weapon of mass destruction.

are we talking VH or VN? i thought your plans were for a VN, soz, which is why i havent commented.

i think NOS is a pathetic idea. you can get it setup for the dyno so you have a monster reading, then have a couple of shots on the drag strip, but driving the car round town with a NOS tune and no NOS fitted would be g-g-gayyyy.

i dunno if its an urban myth, but i have heard since day dot that the EPA fine for having NOS fitted is $24k. so i wouldnt go there if i were you.

i have to kinda agree with the LS option. CRS conversion kits seem pretty straight forward, not too much hassle, registering the stock engine doesnt seem like too much hassle, then tuning it later for more power seems really easy. so there is the answer.

then later on, supercharge it or do one of these:


and win everything, all the time.

[Zeussy]

are we talking VH or VN? i thought your plans were for a VN, soz, which is why i havent commented.

i think NOS is a pathetic idea. you can get it setup for the dyno so you have a monster reading, then have a couple of shots on the drag strip, but driving the car round town with a NOS tune and no NOS fitted would be g-g-gayyyy.

i dunno if its an urban myth, but i have heard since day dot that the EPA fine for having NOS fitted is $24k. so i wouldnt go there if i were you.

i have to kinda agree with the LS option. CRS conversion kits seem pretty straight forward, not too much hassle, registering the stock engine doesnt seem like too much hassle, then tuning it later for more power seems really easy. so there is the answer.

then later on, supercharge it or do one of these:


and win everything, all the time.

Ari, when did you comment on this thread? Don't remember reading it...? lol
Its for the VN, but, that could quite possibly become a donor engine for the VH, if all goes well...

But, I tend to agree with you about the Nitrous idea, thats what I was argueing/discussing with a workmate, the fact that I want to be able to 'use' the power, when ever I want, and not have to worry about fines or legalities if its being used/hooked up. etc...

Although, a turbo'd and stroked holden V8 would probably be a bitch to get passed emissions, but thats irrelevant!



For the moment, I am trying to avoid the logical thing to do / common sense, (going down the LSx route) and still running with the idea of building a 5L.

Got a couple of prices from AusCrank/CrankShaft Rebuilders. (Melb.)

First thing Brett wanted to know, was what power was I after? Which left me sort of speachless, lol. With the response from me of depending on prices, would depend on power, but ball park around 500HP. F/I.

355 Stroker Crank, with Large Chev Journels.

Cast Crank - Around $1300,
Heat treated, Cast Crank - Around $1700, - good for around 5-600HP
4340 Forged (?) Crank - Around $4600, - good to go spastic on.


So, realistically, option B is looking feasible.
But, with the words still ringing in my ear from the phone call - "Its still a Cast Crank..."
Not totally filling me with confidence.

If I were to go down that route, keeping in mind it will be running boost. Any idea's on what some of the other likely prices I'd be in for? Or what I'd need/not need?

Arp stud/bolt mains? Big ends? Heads? kits,
Rings, File fit?
Bearings,
Conrods? large chev journel - what sort? I/H beam etc,
Pistons, Forged, some sort of dished chev?
Stud Girdle?

Prefer to do it once, do it right and not have any concerns about what goes into this motor; Whether or not it will hold up to the stress/strain, etc.

Got 3g saved up already, so better get serious on the research, so when the time comes, I can just go 'bam' and know exactly what I'm after. Although, two rego's will probably slow me up for a week or two.. :/

[Brendo169]

if it was me id go stroker and a whipple charger. Would make serious power and torque down really low and be a wiked street car!!! If your chasing max power id go with a turbo set up. But i reckon a PD charger would feel way better on the street!!!

[Reaper]

Ari, when did you comment on this thread? Don't remember reading it...? lol
Its for the VN, but, that could quite possibly become a donor engine for the VH, if all goes well...

But, I tend to agree with you about the Nitrous idea, thats what I was argueing/discussing with a workmate, the fact that I want to be able to 'use' the power, when ever I want, and not have to worry about fines or legalities if its being used/hooked up. etc...

Although, a turbo'd and stroked holden V8 would probably be a bitch to get passed emissions, but thats irrelevant!



For the moment, I am trying to avoid the logical thing to do / common sense, (going down the LSx route) and still running with the idea of building a 5L.

Got a couple of prices from AusCrank/CrankShaft Rebuilders. (Melb.)

First thing Brett wanted to know, was what power was I after? Which left me sort of speachless, lol. With the response from me of depending on prices, would depend on power, but ball park around 500HP. F/I.

355 Stroker Crank, with Large Chev Journels.

Cast Crank - Around $1300,
Heat treated, Cast Crank - Around $1700, - good for around 5-600HP
4340 Forged (?) Crank - Around $4600, - good to go spastic on.


So, realistically, option B is looking feasible.
But, with the words still ringing in my ear from the phone call - "Its still a Cast Crank..."
Not totally filling me with confidence.

If I were to go down that route, keeping in mind it will be running boost. Any idea's on what some of the other likely prices I'd be in for? Or what I'd need/not need?

Arp stud/bolt mains? Big ends? Heads? kits,
Rings, File fit?
Bearings,
Conrods? large chev journel - what sort? I/H beam etc,
Pistons, Forged, some sort of dished chev?
Stud Girdle?

Prefer to do it once, do it right and not have any concerns about what goes into this motor; Whether or not it will hold up to the stress/strain, etc.

Got 3g saved up already, so better get serious on the research, so when the time comes, I can just go 'bam' and know exactly what I'm after. Although, two rego's will probably slow me up for a week or two.. :/

Well since you have VK's seal of approval I don't know why you haven't bought a GenIII already

That aside, unless you are looking for cubic hp don't be too stressed about a cast crank. COME, SCAT (and a few others) are quite strong and are unlikely to give you any problems. I'd be looking at the COME kit which gives you a balanced bottom end and is nearly as cost effective as a GenIII + nearly the same power too

Reaper

[383 hatch]

Have you got your heart set on F/I?

Honestly, i think you'd be quiet surprised at how a decent N/A 355 stroker will go. It's not rocket science to pull 400-450HP out of a well sorted N/A 355. You also don't need the strength required for an F/I set up, provided you don't pull stupid revs.

Cast crank
Chev I beam rods
383 Chev stroker hypereutectic (don't really need forgies in an N/A engine) pistons 10:1 comp (mabye 10.5:1)
Main studs
Crane 286 hydraulic (can go bigger if you want)
mabye a light port on the heads
T/P dual plane manifold (mabye a dual plane high rise)
1000CFM T/B

That set-up will make an honest 400HP all day everyday and be very streetable. It won't cost the earth, will make bucket loads of torque and it won't need a killer driveline to go with it.

[GEN3RATD]

355 first. then you can boost it later

[ari666]

500HP is too much IMO. ima sound like your granny, but 400 should be more than plenty to keep you happy for a few years.

[Zeussy]

if it was me id go stroker and a whipple charger. Would make serious power and torque down really low and be a wiked street car!!! If your chasing max power id go with a turbo set up. But i reckon a PD charger would feel way better on the street!!!

Yeah, I've always had a bit of a soft spot for a 6/71 poking through the bonnet, but for some reason, lately I've become a fan of the way a turbo's power comes on so strong, and fast...
I think realistically, either of the above combo's would be enough to get me giggling like a school girl!!

Well since you have VK's seal of approval I don't know why you haven't bought a GenIII already

That aside, unless you are looking for cubic hp don't be too stressed about a cast crank. COME, SCAT (and a few others) are quite strong and are unlikely to give you any problems. I'd be looking at the COME kit which gives you a balanced bottom end and is nearly as cost effective as a GenIII + nearly the same power too

Reaper

lmfao Reaper, well, since VK's said its ok, then I suppose I know what I have to do!

I checked out COME's website, and their kits look pretty well priced, (in comparison to CSR).
Maybe not the same quality, (?) but no doubt it'll hold upto what ever punishment I'll throw at it.

With the kit, how it comes balanced would it be good practice to have it checked, by the machinist? As well as crack tested etc..?
Or being 'brand new' could you trust that COME have got it pretty spot on? (being a Mechanic, I've been told never to trust, or assume what you're buying is actually what you get - same with machining, re-check everything before you build it)...

Have you got your heart set on F/I?

Honestly, i think you'd be quiet surprised at how a decent N/A 355 stroker will go. It's not rocket science to pull 400-450HP out of a well sorted N/A 355. You also don't need the strength required for an F/I set up, provided you don't pull stupid revs.

Cast crank
Chev I beam rods
383 Chev stroker hypereutectic (don't really need forgies in an N/A engine) pistons 10:1 comp (mabye 10.5:1)
Main studs
Crane 286 hydraulic (can go bigger if you want)
mabye a light port on the heads
T/P dual plane manifold (mabye a dual plane high rise)
1000CFM T/B

That set-up will make an honest 400HP all day everyday and be very streetable. It won't cost the earth, will make bucket loads of torque and it won't need a killer driveline to go with it.

Well, after staying upto all hours of the night last night, researching whats involved - fuel systems, computers, manifolds, FMIC, blow off valves, and good turbo's - (not chinese crap that'll melt on the dyno). $6-8000+ not including the motor. I started to rethink the Turbo route completely. Then reading your comment first thing this morning; It has put a new perspective on things.

Not totally set on F/I, not now anyway!

I have no self control - when it comes to motors!


Would a high rise manifold fit under the bonnet? Don't want to cut into the bonnet if its avoidable. Unless its for a reason, ie: Blower.

With the heads would it be worthwhile throwing some bigger valves in - 2.08/2.150 intake, 1.600 exhaust. How light a port job, not hours and hours, just a good clean up?

Cam, well, I am slowly learning the way a cam affects a motor. I'm pretty keen on a big, lumpy sound. (I know that makes me sound like a bit of a tool) But, at the same time not wanting to need the thing to rev at 5000 to make any power.

In my head at the moment, got an idea for a 3000-ish stally, and most likley some diff gears aswell - but still being able to drive on the highway without needing a servo every 100kms or so... lol.

355ci Holden V8 Stroker kit………………………………….$1995.00
383ci Holden V8 Stroker kit (up to 9.5:1 comp)………$2200.00
383ci Holden V8 Stroker kit (9.5:1 comp-11:1)……….$2500.00
* All kits fully balanced * All feature Keith Black pistons * Pistons fitted to rods and aligned * All kit components capable of over 500 bhp * Most accurately machined cranks and rods in the industry * Proven performance and reliability for over 17 years manufacturing Holden Stroker cranks * Any neutral flywheels and balancers bolt on.

^^^Not forged pistons.

355ci Holden V8 Stroker kit FORGED PISTONS……….$2750.00
383ci Holden V8 Stroker kit FORGED PISTONS……….$3000.00
396ci Holden V8 Stroker kit FORGED PISTONS……….$3300.00
* “H” beam rods add…$500.00
* All kits fully balanced * All feature Probe, Wiseco or Diamond Racing forged pistons * Moly rings, rod and main bearings * All kit components capable of over 550 bhp * Most accurately machined cranks and rods in the industry * Proven performance and reliability for over 17 years manufacturing Holden Stroker cranks * Any neutral flywheels and balancers bolt on.

^^^With Forged pistons

What do you guys think of COME's low rise manifold? They claim they're alright?

Still go T/P over COME???

355ci Nodular cast crank, Holden rod journals…$770.00
355ci Nodular cast crank, Chev rod journals…….$770.00
383ci Nodular cast crank, Chev rod journals……$880.00
396ci Nodular cast crank, Chev rod journals….$1500.00
355ci and 383ci 4340 steel billet cranks …$2500.00
Note: All the above COME cranks have in house designed counterweights to enable easy internal balancing. Production or aftermarket neutral balancers and flywheels designed for 304/308 Holden V8’s can be bolted right on.

Would it be best to just grab a COME crank, then buy the rest elsewhere?

355 first. then you can boost it later

But, if I was building a motor for boost, probably wouldn't need the compression as high, 10-10.5:1, probably around 8:1 - ish?

Although, I suppose if I didn't go crazy on the boost levels, it might be possible to keep the heads on the thing!!

500HP is too much IMO. ima sound like your granny, but 400 should be more than plenty to keep you happy for a few years.

Well, I don't really have to go to 500hp, it's the magic number you know, us rookies love it for some reason?!! lol.

I don't think I'd be upset driving a 400hp naturally aspirated lumpy thing around! Especially if it costs less than half to build!

Just would like more than 250RWKW, lmao, gotta smash some ricers!!

[ari666]

Just would like more than 250RWKW, lmao, gotta smash some ricers!!

thats all good and proper, but its all useless power unless you are able to put it to the ground. so you get your magic 500HP, then you gota spend 2 tonne on your trans to cope, 2.5-3 tonne on the diff/axles etc, 2 tonne on brakes. etc etc etc etc etc etc.


you will take it out for a thrash and itll cost you a couple of grand each time for broken bits and tow trucks. the car will end up sitting in the garage while you dribble money all over the roof and down the doors. and in 5 years itll be running again and by that time your missus will nag you so much that youll end up selling it. (story of my life)

[Zeussy]

thats all good and proper, but its all useless power unless you are able to put it to the ground. so you get your magic 500HP, then you gota spend 2 tonne on your trans to cope, 2.5-3 tonne on the diff/axles etc, 2 tonne on brakes. etc etc etc etc etc etc.


you will take it out for a thrash and itll cost you a couple of grand each time for broken bits and tow trucks. the car will end up sitting in the garage while you dribble money all over the roof and down the doors. and in 5 years itll be running again and by that time your missus will nag you so much that youll end up selling it. (story of my life)

Pretty much... lmfao.

Although, gearbox needs love anyway. Doesn't have a real 'positive' shift into second, revs to redline in first, drops 250-500rpm when it grabs second, then slowly equalises road speed to engine speed - Like its already got a stally, but with out the flare up on take off? My guess is either 2nd gear clutches or band. Or is that just how these things are? lmao

Probably be best to just dump a couple of tonne into the motor, then have some fun... And fix what breaks!

[ari666]

you will break plenty with a well build 355

[Zeussy]

you will break plenty with a well build 355

Hopefully not with 205's on the back!!

[383 hatch]

I reckon in regards to stroker kits, the SCAT is about the best you will get for the price. Although, you could buy a COME crank and buy aftermarket Chev 5.7" rods of any brand and a set of Hyper 383 Chev pistons of any brand aswell. Whichever way you go, make sure the crank has Chev rod journals. It's a lot easier and cheaper to use Chev rods and pistons.

Injected heads with stock size valves will be fine in an N/A streeter. All VN heads need are a little pocket port (cleaning up the short turn radius and blending the bowels) to flow good. Remember, they flow pretty well from the factory so they don't need radical port work (unless you're talking about going all out i.e 500HP plus). Massive port work and big valves can send you backwards in power if the rest of the engine isn't up to it.

Dual plane will fit under the bonnet with no problems. Not sure about the D/P high rise, but if it does fit, it'll be tight. The COME single plain looks the goods for the money, i'd have no problems using one. Up to you really.

[Zeussy]

I reckon in regards to stroker kits, the SCAT is about the best you will get for the price. Although, you could buy a COME crank and buy aftermarket Chev 5.7" rods of any brand and a set of Hyper 383 Chev pistons of any brand aswell. Whichever way you go, make sure the crank has Chev rod journals. It's a lot easier and cheaper to use Chev rods and pistons.

SCAT hey? So they're pretty good. When I mentioned them to a few guys at work they weren't full of positive comments! lol, but I'm guessing they're going off hearsay not actual facts.
Any reason not to buy the whole COME kit? Get it cheaper buying seperate/from the suppliers?
Is there large and small chev journals? lol,

Only thing with buying it from different suppliers is for me to work out what piston height I need / deck height etc

Have also heard a few rumours about water jackets and such going 383, over 355, and reliability, what do you rekon? Plenty of meat there - just let the pro's do it and it should be right?

Injected heads with stock size valves will be fine in an N/A streeter. All VN heads need are a little pocket port (cleaning up the short turn radius and blending the bowels) to flow good. Remember, they flow pretty well from the factory so they don't need radical port work (unless you're talking about going all out i.e 500HP plus). Massive port work and big valves can send you backwards in power if the rest of the engine isn't up to it.

Sounds good, bit of luck the valves are all ok and will be sweet with just a freshen up/reseat. What about springs/retainers etc? Should I get some that will allow for a bigger lobe lift?

Dual plane will fit under the bonnet with no problems. Not sure about the D/P high rise, but if it does fit, it'll be tight. The COME single plain looks the goods for the money, i'd have no problems using one. Up to you really.

Ahh ok, dual plane sounds nice, lol, so what sort of throttle body would I need?

Dual plane is 5 1/8".
High rise dual plane is 6" high.

So, 7/8" of an inch taller? 22mm? that should fit under the bonnet yeah? lol.

The high rise single plane looks mean as!


Cheers for all the help everyone, tried leaving rep for you all, but aparently I have to spread some around first...? pfft, crap idea that is - its usually the same fella's helping me out!!

[383 hatch]

Well, you can buy the whole kit from COME, but you mentioned buying just the crank from COME so i elaborated on that a bit. You can buy the whole kit from anyone, or you can buy bits and pieces from different suppliers, whichever you prefer really. With the SCAT kits, i havn't actually used a Holden kit yet, but i have heard quiet a few good reports about them and we've used quiet a bit of SCAT stuff at work in Small and Big block Chevs with good results.

I've got a SCAT kit to go in the 355 for my ute, but that's a little while off, so i can't really give you feedback about that yet.

All the Holden cranks with Chev rod journals are large journal as far as i know. With a Chev journal 355 crank and 5.7" Chev rods in a Holden V8, you need a 1.425" pin height piston. That is an off the shelf 383 stroker Chev piston, so you can buy them from any piston manufacturer you like. They're also a lot cheaper than a Holden piston.

Deck height will need to be worked out when the crank rod/s and piston/s are dummied up to achieve the desired compression ratio. Then deck the block to suit.

Springs and retainers need to be matched to the cam, so you really need to pick out a cam first, then use the valve train components recommended for that particular cam.

You will need a 4 barrel 1000 CFM T/B to go with any of the mentioned inlet manifolds. Alternatively, if you get cunning, you can make a T/B set-up yourself with a bit of thought...

[Pub247]

with clearancing for strokers theres usually enough for 355 without issues. I have heard that some 383 eun into troubles but grout filling blocks takes care of those iaaues anyway