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Thread: Lifters gone hard

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    Default Lifters gone hard

    Hi was in the process of iliminating a low vacuum problem with my 5.0L i have come to the conclusion that my lifters (hyd) have gone rock hard, so when i try adjust my roller rockers down half a turn the valves go down insted of the lifter

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    take a pushrod out and check both ends for wear first.

    what type of rollers are they? depending on the lifter, they can be a arse to get adjusted right.

    for shaft mount yella terras: i cut a piece of allen key wrench about 30mm long which i stick in the adjuster and then get someone to start the car. as the engine is running is loads easier to adjust right, cos your lifters are actually pumping, rather than just sitting with no oil in them. keep turning the adjuster till the ticking noise stops then get your assistant to turn off the car. once its off you can tighten up the locking nut. its not easy and get used to stopping the car and picking up the allen key off the floor, cos those rockers actually launch it. pretty damn annoying. just need some patience to get them right.

    if they are regular rollers with studs and guide plates then its a piece of piss to do with the engine running.

    anyway, my point is it sounds like your lifters are leaking down, so the only way to get the adjustment right (without changing lifters) is to adjust when they are full of oil and pumping.

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    yeh i got shaft mount, but why do the lifters stay hard when the car is off shouldnt they bleed down and go soft to push in. sorry man im basic..

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    you might have adjusted all the way down when the lifter have bled out. which means theres no give in them once they pump up theyll be pushing the valves open
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
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    No they are all the way out against the clip i had the inlet off and they looked out all the way?

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    Is it misfiring? If the valves were being held off the seats, it wouldn't have any compression (or misfire on whichever cylinders are the problem).

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    Quote Originally Posted by darky82 View Post
    No they are all the way out against the clip i had the inlet off and they looked out all the way?
    they can be out all the way and still have no oil in them. you making your adjustments on the heel of the cam too, right? you can get a bit of oil into them by tipping oil down the middle of the pushrod and pressing the rocker arm back and fordth a few times. that will help pump them up, but not as good as starting the engine.

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    it had a slight misfire slight poping from exhaust and comp was down to 155psi backed one cylinder off til it had play and got 180 from that cylinder has 10:1 comp so i think 180 is cool yeh.

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    all the rest are 150-160, so what the best way to adjust, untill the pushrod gets some resistance...?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ari666 View Post
    for shaft mount yella terras: i cut a piece of allen key wrench about 30mm long which i stick in the adjuster and then get someone to start the car. as the engine is running is loads easier to adjust right, cos your lifters are actually pumping, rather than just sitting with no oil in them. keep turning the adjuster till the ticking noise stops then get your assistant to turn off the car. once its off you can tighten up the locking nut. its not easy and get used to stopping the car and picking up the allen key off the floor, cos those rockers actually launch it. pretty damn annoying. just need some patience to get them right.
    ^^^ that .

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    1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.

    2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

    3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait 5 minutes for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

    4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

    5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

    6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Dude i dont know whats going on but my lifter is not bleeding down its not stuck in still has the same rod hight as one i found thats HAS bled down WTF, and when trying to adjust its just pushing the valve down.

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    are they new lifters ive found lots of new lifter to be full of machining swarf maybe pull them all and disassemble clean and refit.
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    yeh the whole engine has been rebuilt, also my old ones are rock hard too all of them but the engine was running fine on them

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    they will be hard when full of oil it takes a while for them to bleed down with spring pressure on them
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    there not going soft, better off just getting a new set whats better the anti pumps or std hyd, are anti pump the same to set up

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    if you have antipumps they get set at zero lash . thats probably your problem antipumps have hardly any movement
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    It has a rubins .532 hyd cam and lifters..

    The vacuum issues i was having was the brake booster was not working good when in low revs and my fuel regulator was not working well too.
    Last edited by darky82; 31-07-2011 at 11:40 AM.

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    LOL, you have an aftermarket cam and you're worried about low vacuum? If the cam is of any decent size you will always have low vacuum, it's just a trade off with that you will have to put up with.

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    From the info i have got from engine builders the cam i have should not have such a dramatic low in vacumm, i have tryed backing my rockers right off till they tap by hand do a comp test and i get 180, with the rockers set half a turn a get 150-160

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