Hi guys,
I am new here so be gentle :P
I recently got my hands on a cheap 95 VS Statesman 5lt V8.
I am now doing some research on what is available to upgrade the motor to gain more power.
Dont want to spend 10's of thousands but happy to part with some coin for value for money mods.
The problem is I dont know enough about these motors to even start.
Also looking for a recommendation for a great mechanic around Cheltenham that can help with modding my VS.
Thanks in advance
spark plugs
leads
coil
fuel filter
air filter
cheapest/best dollar for dollar HP gains.
As above with the addition of; instead of a standard air filter, get a reusable high flow air filter (K&N or Redline)
I would also recomend taking apart the intake air plenum and giving it a thorough clean. Use the search function to find a how-to.
Next up from the maintenance that ari mentioned is exhaust/extractors and a tune, and next up from there is really where the bigger bucks come in.
Thanks for the tips guys
I have heard about of talk about power chips, are they worth the effort?
Yes and no, it just dumps more fuel in. If I were you id be more focused on having an a nice and healthy sounding V8. Id start with a good set of extractors which you can pick up of ebay or the wreckers and a good exhaust system.
You can get bigger injectors and buy a tuned memcal of someone on here. (I think its greenfoam)
I think extractors and hi flow cats. Will make air flow better and a good note. Better of spending a bit of money an buying pacemaker extractors. I have some that were only used for 5000kms before someone it me and rote off the car. Interested in buyin them they are of a vs Ss commodore auto
Message me via mob and I have alot of things from my vs you would like. I also have a engine brace which impoves handing in a chrome finish. You can also install that urself. I have a spare twin dumpy exhaust tip etc. Text me whenever and I can help u out 0418 441 978
Also k&n air filter and a upgraded air intake systerm which is good and makes good airflow which will fit on ur vs. I'm located in western suburbs and pickup can me made mon - fri after 6 and weekends
as above maintenance should be first on the cards.. second ya need to get the engine breathing ie extractors, exhaust, filter and inlet pipe... after all that if ya still not happy its hard to look past a yella terra PD supercharger for around $7000
If in doubt......FLOOR IT!!!
ya can only put a mild cam in with the stock bunch of bananas manifold... not really worth spending $4000 on cam/head setup and only getting half the power increase that a PD charger will give you.... all comes down to how he wants the car to drive/ fuel economy .... personaly i love my car with the lumpy cam but some people hate it also uses a lot of fuel town driving
If in doubt......FLOOR IT!!!
Thanks for the tips guys
It already has a K&N fliter,
After market exhaust with extractors.
Looked at the super charger but as I only paid 5k for the Stato spending 7k on something for it is proving difficult to get my head around.
I've got a thread going at the moment,
vr 5.0 engine rebuild
I only paid $6,500 for my vr ss but decided to go the whole hog and rebuild everything!! Interior, gearbox and engine.
Have a look, I have parts and prices I paid for all items off the shelf.
Going to see the engine builder this afternoon, so I'll post a couple more photos in the evening!
I've been waiting for a week and a half for this twin throttle from come, got it this morning, going to deliver it today to the engine dude!!
doesnt look like a very "cheap HP upgrade" as the thread was titled. looks pretty frikken expensive to me. im guessing the long runners will make your engiune a bit of a screamer. for someone that doesnt wanna port the heads, rebuild/balance for flat tops and a pretty big cam/stall convertor and diff gears, that intake looks pretty useless.
First thing I do when I get a new car is the maintenance... Seriously change every fluid you can think of except aircon gas.. unless u feel like it... just coz the service book sez it was done doesnt mean it was... Put some great quality oils and filters everywhere, an new plugs and leads.. We all know how much of a difference that alone does and you can do most it at home.. So why not.. Cheap and very effective.. sure you wont gain 100rwkw but likely 15-20hp if it all needs doing.. I also recommend doing the diff too... Its the most commonly left out oil change along with the gearbox.. if your runnin old oil in ur diff an gearbox after you change it, it will be so much smoother and tighter.. talkin about diff and gearbox..
After you have done those basics, look into a head and cam' package, or cam at the least.. 5L are ment to be so lumpy they give lil kids nightmares.. so why not make it lope harder..?
In addidtion I know its not engine, but possibly consider upgrading the suspension.. Not jst springs.. don't even have to change ride height if u dont want, but if the car is pushing on 15yrs old.. new springs shocks and sway bars front an back will make it feel like a god.. full nolethane/SuperPro etc etc all round if funds permit.. its 15yrs old I am sure its beggining to sag in places it shouldnt... in addition to this train of thought.. if its an auto maybe a rebuild or a shift kit cld be on the cards? manual maybe an aftermarket clutch to get some response back..?
sorry I know you wanted eng. mods but hey, couldnt help myself...
Oh yes an diff gears as stated above.. wont increase hp, but will take your car into the hp making rpm range faster... an will change how it feels all over again... (for the better btw)
I think diff gears should be next on the cards for me I rekon.. lol
Needa start spending money on go fast bits :P
I'd do the lumpy cam etc, but I think I probably need a rebuild anyway.
Speaking of which (and not meaning to thread hijack, but it could be good info for the OP)
If I was to buy a 355 stroker kit and have that fitted ( I doubt I could pull that one off myself). Would that effectively be an engine rebuild?
Or would there be further work that needs doing for a 'rebuild'.
A 355 would class as a rebuild on the bottom and on whatever top end parts you put in, if that makes sense.
I know this may be a little vague when each kit is probably different, but if I were to get a 'kit' online or something what else would need rebuilding when it comes to the motor itself ??
?que?
the stroker kit may or may not need to be balanced. some kits use rods that are a lot lighter than stock and some use cranks with counter balancers that are totally wrong. you can install them as-is but your engine will probably shake itself to death.
so once you get your kit you will need to relieve thew bottom of the bores a little to allow for the extra throw of the crankshaft so the conrod bolts dont hit the lip on the bottom of the bore. (you can do this yourself)
once your bores are honed (you can do that part yourself too) the bores relieved and the crank balanced you can slap it all together yourself really. i mean, there are loads more things you SHOULD do, like checking the nip/crush of the bearings, crank end float, line bore, crack test, check lifter bores, etc etc etc. but you dont necessarily HAVE to.
you should.
but you dont HAVE to.
Sort of O/T, shouldn't the rod clearance be fine though because the engine is VS, and they had the clearance from factory for the 215i, or does it need that little bit more? On the subject of the checking crush, end float etc. how reliable will an engine be without checking these?
How reliable it will be depends on whether the bearing clearances are right or wrong. If they're wrong, it'll die pretty quickly, if they're right it'll live. That's what you're trying to ascertain by checking the clearances.
IMO, you should ALWAYS check the bearing clearances when putting an engine together (plastigauge is about $3) for the peace of mind. Even if it's all been machined up, check it anyway, never trust your machinist.
To all,
You need to check clearances. All of them, yes all. How long will it take for piece of mind and wallet?? Can't believe you said that!! Boring and honing and all that should be left to a professional.. I'm not going to ask you to give me brain surgery... I'd rather see a professional!!!
Bottom end is the back bone of the engine. 1 guy is right, if the bearing clearances are fine you don't need a line hone bore, for the crank, just main stud kit it. First you have to dummy it up to check the crush, float etc. Unless I was a mechanic I wouldn't drive my backyard build motor.
VS series 2 has a cleared bottom end for 3.48' crank and your 5.7' arp bolted h beams. No more needs to come off the bottom.
If you buy a stroker kit it may or may not be balanced. Be careful here. 2 types 1. External balance... No no
2. Internal balance... This is what you want. Different cam. Few other bits and pieces.
All these "little mods" people are talking about... If you were to do all of them you'd probably be close to what I'm spending anyway!!!
Except it would be 355, nice brand new parts.... New engine. Solves all future little problems eg... Rear main seal. This guys statesman is no spring chicken and it's time all these things bare their heads. What just keep fixing them?? Make the mechanic rich or save a few more coin don't do anything now, save your coin and stroke it.
I know I've forgotten stuff but we will see.