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Thread: Would you need forged internals for a 355 running between 6lb to a max of 10lb (maybe

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    Default Would you need forged internals for a 355 running between 6lb to a max of 10lb (maybe

    Hello made the decission to stroke my 304 in my 4wd station wagon (Nissan GQ)

    Plan is (have the charger ) to run a side mount pd charger at 6LB to start with ( i know how addivctavie boost is) so infuter may up it to around the 8/10lb

    would this kit do the job

    Holden 304-308 5L - Scat 355 V8 stroker engine kit | eBay

    or better of spending the extra $1000 on this one

    Holden 304-308 5L Scat 355 V8 Forged stroker engine kit inc H-bean conrods | eBay


    also at loss what cam to run and what is the better option

    looking for good low to mid range performance while still keeping a little up top end

    seeing as it is a 2.5 ton 4wd with 35" tyres not looking for massive top end speed, just beable to sit on 100kph and have acceleration with out dropping back gears (would be nice)


    also who or what memcals or ecus would be a good option to suit

    cheers lindon

    Ps if there are any stuipd questions or missing info just say so as I am no engine builder or pretend to know much about what makes a good strong relible engine that performs

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    Logic dictates a forged motor is better so wouldn't you? Even more so if your planning forced induction.

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    what charger have you got as a PD chargers generally sit on top of the manifold

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    Quote Originally Posted by Munz View Post
    what charger have you got as a PD chargers generally sit on top of the manifold
    twin screw sprintex, side mount with a capacity range that will suit the 5.0L

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraith View Post
    Logic dictates a forged motor is better so wouldn't you? Even more so if your planning forced induction.
    You are correct, but there are plenty of standard bottom end 304's running boost from what you read on here...hence asking the question for those boost ranges is it a must as it may never see more than the 6lb that the current pulleys are set at, but then I also know what having a boosted engine can be like and you always get that little devil on your shoulder telling you, you need more power!! ...

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    Maybe grout fill a bit of the bottom of the block.

    A forged bottom end isnt bullet proof. You can destroy one very easyily especially with a shit tune.

    Personally i'd just get some forged rods and a decent set of hypa pistons and itll be plenty strong enough. Decent stroker crank will be necessary buy a good brand kit not a cheap one. I'd look art getting a low 8.5-9 comp piston as you'll wont be going for peak power just nice and strong down low with plenty of torque
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ari666 View Post
    i dunno if forged is necessary, would depend on the operating range and torque output, but for a 4bie i would STRONGLY advise 4 bolts or a gridle to keep the block straight.
    Can I ask why you think being a 4wd it would be more prone to needing a girdle or 4 bolt mains

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pub247 View Post
    Maybe grout fill a bit of the bottom of the block.

    A forged bottom end isnt bullet proof. You can destroy one very easyily especially with a shit tune.

    Personally i'd just get some forged rods and a decent set of hypa pistons and itll be plenty strong enough. Decent stroker crank will be necessary buy a good brand kit not a cheap one. I'd look art getting a low 8.5-9 comp piston as you'll wont be going for peak power just nice and strong down low with plenty of torque
    Both kits I lniked to seem decent quality they both run Scat cranks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tassiepatrol View Post
    Can I ask why you think being a 4wd it would be more prone to needing a girdle or 4 bolt mains
    just for the twist factor. blocks twist when you put them under a lot of strain, for example a 2 tonne 4x4 going up a 45 degree incline. great way to twist the shit out of your big end. caps or a girdle will disperse the force on the caps and spread it out over a large area.

    id image a charger on a tow cam would have a shit-tonne of torque.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ari666 View Post
    just for the twist factor. blocks twist when you put them under a lot of strain, for example a 2 tonne 4x4 going up a 45 degree incline. great way to twist the shit out of your big end. caps or a girdle will disperse the force on the caps and spread it out over a large area.

    id image a charger on a tow cam would have a shit-tonne of torque.
    Girdel is on the shoping list , and yes should make good torque thru mid range < iam use the the Nissan TD42 Diesel engine with a turbo strapped to it running anything between 10lb and 20lband being able to do 100kph up a hill at 1700rpm 5th gear on 35's and 4.3:1 diffs

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tassiepatrol View Post
    Both kits I lniked to seem decent quality they both run Scat cranks
    the 2nd kit has the h beam rods and forgies is obviously the stronger of the 2. Personally i think the first kti would do the job its got 9.5 piston which is the lowest any of those kits offer. Scat cranks are good quality
    Get the bottom end balanced when it gets built.

    As for do it once do right... thats worth about a grain of salt theres nothing wrong with i beam rods or especially hyper pistons. the quality of these parts are good its not like its a procomp stroker kit he's looking at.
    You dont need to go and buy the most expensive product on the market to achieve you goals within reason.
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pub247 View Post
    the 2nd kit has the h beam rods and forgies is obviously the stronger of the 2. Personally i think the first kti would do the job its got 9.5 piston which is the lowest any of those kits offer. Scat cranks are good quality
    Get the bottom end balanced when it gets built.

    As for do it once do right... thats worth about a grain of salt theres nothing wrong with i beam rods or especially hyper pistons. the quality of these parts are good its not like its a procomp stroker kit he's looking at.
    You dont need to go and buy the most expensive product on the market to achieve you goals within reason.
    I had the same thought and as the quetioned asked was would the first kit handle 6lb to possibly 10lb (6lb being the main thing ) I was also thinking the first kit should be ok

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    Been told I won't know what crank seal is needed till i remove the crank is this correct as don't want to grab a rope seal if its not suited

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    Will need new sump if you run the girdle.

    There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.

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    Won't fit. If it has any internals in the pan tray/scraper etc. It will foul the girdle. Also depending on the pan design the areas around the seals will foul as well.

    Also you'll need a new pick up as the brace won't fit with the girdle.

    There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.

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    interesting to know


    i have always wondered about the pickup though.

    OP i have never actually used a girdle, only read up on their benefits. to be honest i prefer 4 bolts. and if you have to get a new sump and pickup, it seems it'd be cheaper. splayed caps are 150 for a set and then get your engine builder to drill/tap the new holes. also: splayed are best. the 2nd bolt isnt paralel to the first. you use a stud for the OEM hole, then a bolt that goes into the blot on a slight angle.

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    Thanks for the awesome input guys it great and keep it coming

    well I have been doing some research , and i am stoked as it looks like I can achieve all this and stay within my preffered budget of $5,000

    port city stroker kit (none forged) $1555
    bore + hone+washed $280
    full reco of 2x heads $560
    assemble full engine $800
    Mace engineering stage 2
    cam and memcal package $835
    4 bolt mains $125
    Total=$4155 from a budget of $5,000 up to $7000

    think that covers it all, just little bit of machining cost
    deck block and heads, drill and tap for 4 bolt mains

    is there anything else I should do or is worth doing while at it ... much benifit in porting heads for my needs etc ??

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    Wouldn't you need to clearance it for the stroker crank? Only the later 304's came pre clearanced.

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    355ci will clear the rails, we just normally sneak the windage tray a bit lower.

    There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.

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    does your price include the bearigns and gaskets?

    I would add new balancer and then full balance of bottom end

    Also need to factore line bore/hone of main tunnel

    I would also add studs for heads and mains if your planning on running boost
    Quote Originally Posted by Smidy
    How many kw would i need to beat vin diesil to the train lines?

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