Hello made the decission to stroke my 304 in my 4wd station wagon (Nissan GQ)
Plan is (have the charger ) to run a side mount pd charger at 6LB to start with ( i know how addivctavie boost is) so infuter may up it to around the 8/10lb
would this kit do the job
Holden 304-308 5L - Scat 355 V8 stroker engine kit | eBay
or better of spending the extra $1000 on this one
Holden 304-308 5L Scat 355 V8 Forged stroker engine kit inc H-bean conrods | eBay
also at loss what cam to run and what is the better option
looking for good low to mid range performance while still keeping a little up top end
seeing as it is a 2.5 ton 4wd with 35" tyres not looking for massive top end speed, just beable to sit on 100kph and have acceleration with out dropping back gears (would be nice)
also who or what memcals or ecus would be a good option to suit
cheers lindon
Ps if there are any stuipd questions or missing info just say so as I am no engine builder or pretend to know much about what makes a good strong relible engine that performs
Logic dictates a forged motor is better so wouldn't you? Even more so if your planning forced induction.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
what charger have you got as a PD chargers generally sit on top of the manifold![]()
You are correct, but there are plenty of standard bottom end 304's running boost from what you read on here...hence asking the question for those boost ranges is it a must as it may never see more than the 6lb that the current pulleys are set at, but then I also know what having a boosted engine can be like and you always get that little devil on your shoulder telling you, you need more power!! ...
Get forged. Never have to worry about the bottom end. Simple.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
i dunno if forged is necessary, would depend on the operating range and torque output, but for a 4bie i would STRONGLY advise 4 bolts or a gridle to keep the block straight.
Maybe grout fill a bit of the bottom of the block.
A forged bottom end isnt bullet proof. You can destroy one very easyily especially with a shit tune.
Personally i'd just get some forged rods and a decent set of hypa pistons and itll be plenty strong enough. Decent stroker crank will be necessary buy a good brand kit not a cheap one. I'd look art getting a low 8.5-9 comp piston as you'll wont be going for peak power just nice and strong down low with plenty of torque
Originally Posted by Smidy
just for the twist factor. blocks twist when you put them under a lot of strain, for example a 2 tonne 4x4 going up a 45 degree incline. great way to twist the shit out of your big end. caps or a girdle will disperse the force on the caps and spread it out over a large area.
id image a charger on a tow cam would have a shit-tonne of torque.
do it once, do it right..
the 2nd kit has the h beam rods and forgies is obviously the stronger of the 2. Personally i think the first kti would do the job its got 9.5 piston which is the lowest any of those kits offer. Scat cranks are good quality
Get the bottom end balanced when it gets built.
As for do it once do right... thats worth about a grain of salt theres nothing wrong with i beam rods or especially hyper pistons. the quality of these parts are good its not like its a procomp stroker kit he's looking at.
You dont need to go and buy the most expensive product on the market to achieve you goals within reason.
Originally Posted by Smidy
Been told I won't know what crank seal is needed till i remove the crank is this correct as don't want to grab a rope seal if its not suited
All EFI 5 litres are rope seal.
Agree with Pub247.
Will need new sump if you run the girdle.
There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.
Won't fit. If it has any internals in the pan tray/scraper etc. It will foul the girdle. Also depending on the pan design the areas around the seals will foul as well.
Also you'll need a new pick up as the brace won't fit with the girdle.
There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.
interesting to know
i have always wondered about the pickup though.
OP i have never actually used a girdle, only read up on their benefits. to be honest i prefer 4 bolts. and if you have to get a new sump and pickup, it seems it'd be cheaper. splayed caps are 150 for a set and then get your engine builder to drill/tap the new holes. also: splayed are best. the 2nd bolt isnt paralel to the first. you use a stud for the OEM hole, then a bolt that goes into the blot on a slight angle.
Thanks for the awesome input guys it great and keep it coming
well I have been doing some research , and i am stoked as it looks like I can achieve all this and stay within my preffered budget of $5,000
port city stroker kit (none forged) $1555
bore + hone+washed $280
full reco of 2x heads $560
assemble full engine $800
Mace engineering stage 2
cam and memcal package $835
4 bolt mains $125
Total=$4155 from a budget of $5,000 up to $7000
think that covers it all, just little bit of machining cost
deck block and heads, drill and tap for 4 bolt mains
is there anything else I should do or is worth doing while at it ... much benifit in porting heads for my needs etc ??
Wouldn't you need to clearance it for the stroker crank? Only the later 304's came pre clearanced.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
355ci will clear the rails, we just normally sneak the windage tray a bit lower.
There is no such thing as stupid questions, Only stupid people.
does your price include the bearigns and gaskets?
I would add new balancer and then full balance of bottom end
Also need to factore line bore/hone of main tunnel
I would also add studs for heads and mains if your planning on running boost
Originally Posted by Smidy