304 rebuild

[CM99VT]

ok ive fully stripped down the 5 litre it needs boring due to a bit of marking on the cylinder that me and the boss dont think will hone out, anyway what approximately is a rebuild kit worth all seals bearings and prob 10 thou over pistons
Also the plan for the long run is to whack a yella terra blower on top anything i should do now while i have the chance that isnt overly pricey..

[v8_bomberdore]

there are heaps of stroker kits available for good prices and if u want to spend that little bit extra u can get all the good stuff that will handle big boost , evan the basic kits will handle boost, if u decide to stay same stroke u will save some $$ but for the price some of the its are going for why not do a 355, or u could do something a little different and offset your factory crank for a 330 stroker either way plenty of options

[CM99VT]

there are heaps of stroker kits available for good prices and if u want to spend that little bit extra u can get all the good stuff that will handle big boost , evan the basic kits will handle boost, if u decide to stay same stroke u will save some $$ but for the price some of the its are going for why not do a 355, or u could do something a little different and offset your factory crank for a 330 stroker either way plenty of options

yeah i would love to do that but 3rd yr apprentice wages arent the best im just lucky to be doing most the work myself. i was just thinking of rebuilding close to standerd bar the boring coz of the apparent 60% increase on standerd motor any1 on here got 1 and have any feedback on how it goes or anything..

[greenfoam]

Just get good new rod bolts and some better than stock pistons and you'll be fine, no real need for a stroker with boost when you can just use more boost and end with the same thing

[CM99VT]

Just get good new rod bolts and some better than stock pistons and you'll be fine, no real need for a stroker with boost when you can just use more boost and end with the same thing

yeah well ive got to bore it so ill some oversize 1s from the local shop, me and my old man were thinkin the same as you and if i really want that bit more after the blower stroke it then..

Cant wait till its finally finished now all i need is a flexplate and flywheel and for august next yr to come round so i can drive it lol

thanks for the advice

[Pub247]

I would decide on what pistons you want first before you go bore you'll find it hard to get decent piston in 10thou most common are 20,40,60. The thing about strocker cranks is they're not much more expensive then what a crank grind is going to cost. But if money is tight then you'll save 300 odd dollars which is better spent on the balancing. I suggest you talk to some good engine builders getting the bottom end done right will make a lot of difference if your running boost. Me i would get it lined bored and then get the crank ground 2 thou lees than the size of of your main and big ends. this is better than just getting your crank ground to 10 or whatever the case may be. May cost a little more and requires you to have your bearings and rods and block already done givin to the crank grinder but it will mean that your clearances are perfect

[CM99VT]

I would decide on what pistons you want first before you go bore you'll find it hard to get decent piston in 10thou most common are 20,40,60. The thing about strocker cranks is they're not much more expensive then what a crank grind is going to cost. But if money is tight then you'll save 300 odd dollars which is better spent on the balancing. I suggest you talk to some good engine builders getting the bottom end done right will make a lot of difference if your running boost. Me i would get it lined bored and then get the crank ground 2 thou lees than the size of of your main and big ends. this is better than just getting your crank ground to 10 or whatever the case may be. May cost a little more and requires you to have your bearings and rods and block already done givin to the crank grinder but it will mean that your clearances are perfect

well the boss looked at all the components with me he said we wont need to grind the crank just touch it up with amri because it apperas to have been out not too long ago and all the bearings are standerd size so would i need to grind the crank..
the engine builders around here are wankers mate rip off like you wouldnt believe and take forever in doing it im hesitaant to get them to bore my block let alone anything else

[Pub247]

i wouldnt use emri on a crank it will take too much off just take it in to get linished take about 5mins to linish a crank so it should cost next to nothing

[CM99VT]

i wouldnt use emri on a crank it will take too much off just take it in to get linished take about 5mins to linish a crank so it should cost next to nothing

yeah ok il go see em tuesday and quiz them up see how much itll set me back.. any other thoughts you've beeen a great help mate

[Pub247]

First off i'd be checking the journal sizes just to make sure they're all within acceptable size.
If your putting it together yourself make sure you check the clearances. Buy some plastigauge acl do it and youd get it though repco or the like nopt that expensive considering how much you get.

[v8_bomberdore]

just get yourslef some 10.0.1 pistons

[CM99VT]

just get yourslef some 10.0.1 pistons

some 10.0.1 pistons? that not the compresiion ratio is it?? i thought thats be a bit high running some boost

[Pub247]

yeah i think thats what he's getting at. You should be looking for some real low comp ones big as dished ones you can afford.

[CM99VT]

yeah i think thats what he's getting at. You should be looking for some real low comp ones big as dished ones you can afford.

but if i go real low comp like lower than standerd wont it be a real slug to drive till i get the blower on it

[v8_bomberdore]

some 10.0.1 pistons? that not the compresiion ratio is it?? i thought thats be a bit high running some boost

with 10.0.1 compression u can still run boost , one of my mates has a single turbo gen3 with stock 10 to1 compression at 12psi makes over 500hp on pump fuel so it can be dun , but your trying to do 2 different things , u want to rebuild the engine now and u want it to go better and then later u want to put a blower on it, either way u need to up the compression weather it be higher comp pistons or a blower, maybe limit yourself to 9.5.1 pistons , then later wn u want to put the blower on u can run a bit more boost either way as long as its tuned correctly u wont have a problem

[CM99VT]

with 10.0.1 compression u can still run boost , one of my mates has a single turbo gen3 with stock 10 to1 compression at 12psi makes over 500hp on pump fuel so it can be dun , but your trying to do 2 different things , u want to rebuild the engine now and u want it to go better and then later u want to put a blower on it, either way u need to up the compression weather it be higher comp pistons or a blower, maybe limit yourself to 9.5.1 pistons , then later wn u want to put the blower on u can run a bit more boost either way as long as its tuned correctly u wont have a problem

ok thats fair enuf, yeah i wish i had thhe money to do it in 1 hit instead of in stages lol would make my life that little bit easier.. ill go see the engine builders round here and see what they say because it might be a yr or 2 before i get the blower and with real low comp itd run crap wouldnt it?? 9:5.1 would be goos coz that around near standerd isnt it?

[v8_bomberdore]

ok thats fair enuf, yeah i wish i had thhe money to do it in 1 hit instead of in stages lol would make my life that little bit easier.. ill go see the engine builders round here and see what they say because it might be a yr or 2 before i get the blower and with real low comp itd run crap wouldnt it?? 9:5.1 would be goos coz that around near standerd isnt it?

8.5.1 is stock, so 9.5.1 would be fine but then what cam u decide to use may not be the best for wen u decide to chuck on the blower because of the increased over lap that bigger cams produce ,witch means wen both valves are open at the same time isnt good for when u have a blower or turbo becuase some of your boost is wasted straight out the exhaust , so maybe wen u decide on a cam go for something with a high lobe seperation eg 112deg+

[CM99VT]

8.5.1 is stock, so 9.5.1 would be fine but then what cam u decide to use may not be the best for wen u decide to chuck on the blower because of the increased over lap that bigger cams produce ,witch means wen both valves are open at the same time isnt good for when u have a blower or turbo becuase some of your boost is wasted straight out the exhaust , so maybe wen u decide on a cam go for something with a high lobe seperation eg 112deg+

ok ill get 9:5.1 i was reading some mags at home n theres a couiple of blown 5 litres running the same comp so it obviously will be fine like u said lol.. um was thinkin of crow cam part number 4619 specs are duration I 286 E 290
Duration at .50" I 226 E 232 lc 112 lift I 505 E 520 power range from 2500 to 5500 says it will suit high performance motors and supercharged, would it be alright to put this in during the rebuild and just get it tuned or just to purchase and leave in my toolbox at work and put in wen i install the blower

[v8_bomberdore]

thats a decent size cam and with that setup it should go pritty well , i would have the cam installed wen u have the motor built , just dont skimp on anything , if u can get something better for a few extra $$ then do it ,that way wen u put the blower on , you can realy push it and not have to worry about anything , also make sure u get yourself some good head studds, i have herd of some arp head studds streaching even on some NA engines, arp may have fixed there problem im not sure

[Blown V6 Hatch]

Get a good set of pistons, put some ARP rod bolts in and have the rods closed & honed, ARP main studs and have the block line honed. As said, you havnt got much choice of pistons in 10 thou oversized, just bore it 30 thou and be done with it.....Much better choice of pistons because when most blocks are bored they go 30 thou. Anyway, if its got a fair lip on top of the bores, 10 thou generally wont get rid of them.....If you are going to S/C it, might aswell just get some ACL race series pistons in stock compression. Stock cam will be fine with boost! ARP head studs would be a good investment aswell.

[CM99VT]

thats a decent size cam and with that setup it should go pritty well , i would have the cam installed wen u have the motor built , just dont skimp on anything , if u can get something better for a few extra $$ then do it ,that way wen u put the blower on , you can realy push it and not have to worry about anything , also make sure u get yourself some good head studds, i have herd of some arp head studds streaching even on some NA engines, arp may have fixed there problem im not sure

ok ill see some people around here and see what they reckon coz it'd be a pig to drive with such a huge cam wouldnt it? and wen i do the blower it aint hard to change the cam

Get a good set of pistons, put some ARP rod bolts in and have the rods closed & honed, ARP main studs and have the block line honed. As said, you havnt got much choice of pistons in 10 thou oversized, just bore it 30 thou and be done with it.....Much better choice of pistons because when most blocks are bored they go 30 thou. Anyway, if its got a fair lip on top of the bores, 10 thou generally wont get rid of them.....If you are going to S/C it, might aswell just get some ACL race series pistons in stock compression. Stock cam will be fine with boost! ARP head studs would be a good investment aswell.

hasnt got much of a lip just water marks mate, will go see engine builder and tell him what u and v8bomberdore have mentioned and see what he says thanks for all the help, curious whats the difference between line honed and normal hone??

[Pub247]

ok ill see some people around here and see what they reckon coz it'd be a pig to drive with such a huge cam wouldnt it? and wen i do the blower it aint hard to change the cam




hasnt got much of a lip just water marks mate, will go see engine builder and tell him what u and v8bomberdore have mentioned and see what he says thanks for all the help, curious whats the difference between line honed and normal hone??

Line hone is when they do the cam or crank tunnel so theyre dead straight and theres no lips on the main caps

[v8_bomberdore]

the cam needs to match your compression ratio and to your heads themselves, no point in going to a big cam if your going to leave the ports stock

[Blown V6 Hatch]

hasnt got much of a lip just water marks mate, will go see engine builder and tell him what u and v8bomberdore have mentioned and see what he says thanks for all the help, curious whats the difference between line honed and normal hone??

Even so, i would still go 30 thou. How much is not much lip?? What you need to do is measure your ring gap and piston to bore clearance, this will give a much better indication as to how worn the bore is....Make sure you measure the front 2 bores on a holden V8 as they are the ones most prone to wear!

Sorry mate, should of explained myself better, i meant line hone the main tunnels (as pub 24/7 indicated) if you fit main studs. Studs clamp the main caps differently to standard bolts, so the main tunnels will need to be line honed to make sure they are perfectly round. If you stay with the stock bolts, line honing the main tunnels will not be required.

[CM99VT]

Even so, i would still go 30 thou. How much is not much lip?? What you need to do is measure your ring gap and piston to bore clearance, this will give a much better indication as to how worn the bore is....Make sure you measure the front 2 bores on a holden V8 as they are the ones most prone to wear!

Sorry mate, should of explained myself better, i meant line hone the main tunnels (as pub 24/7 indicated) if you fit main studs. Studs clamp the main caps differently to standard bolts, so the main tunnels will need to be line honed to make sure they are perfectly round. If you stay with the stock bolts, line honing the main tunnels will not be required.

ok i just dropped the block and rods there hes gonna bore it i think 30 thou is gonna fit new rod bolts using head bolts not studs not sure what he's doing with the mains goin studs or not but is line honing them he recommended it, and gettin new pistons bout 320 a set flat tops not sure on compresiion he said not to go over 9:5.1 so wen i get the heads to him we'll see i guess also getting balanced when i get an aftermarket balancer