most of u have allready seen this but anyway..
this is my 1984 vk commodore efi six.. it has extractors and a 2.5" straight thru exhaust with a single 'quiet' muffler... kicker speakers/sub clarion head unit, lowerd with sl king springs on stockies.. and upgraded headlight wiring etc... and it just has a few small mods nothing worth listing..or even classifiying as 'mods' lol
i also changed the bumpers from silver to like.. a champaignie colour..
photos...
and then this happend.. :S
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Looks good for an old VK
How did you upgrade the lights? New globes or wiring?
did you hit a gutter???
wood glue and tec screws.
jks - sikaflex.
97 WRX AWD
Tein Coilovers + EDFC Dampener Control - Whiteline heavy duty Rear sway bar - Whiteline Droplinks front and rear
Turbosmart dual stage boost controller
IHI VF34 Turbo - XForce 3inch TBE - Oversized TMIC - Unichip PiggyBack ECU
PPG Straight cut 1st & 2nd, Slight helical 3rd & 4th and standard fifth - HD Clutch - custom braided clutch line
02 wrx 4pot front calipers - DBA500 two peice slotted rotors - Steel braided Lines
BP98 safe tune @ 171.8awkw
shes a lovely ol girl mate even with the mishap
the good thing about getting older....more toysthe bad news more headaches
what globes did you use mate. Did you just re do the old wiring did you?
2002 HSV GTO COUPE
VK calais ls1 turbo conversion (in the build)
2009 turbo v8 landcruiser
My VK http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...-vk-355-a.html
the process for sticking on your mould back on is:
1. 2" tape along the top, bottom, front and rear of the mould while its off, ready to be stick onto the guard
2. a glob of sikaflex on the front and rear of the mould
3. TAKE YOUR TIME. remember the mould is meant to go a few mm in front of the edge of the guard so your door has clearance to open and close
get it perfect before you stick it on, cos' once the skiaflex is dry, its there for life.
Ok sweet ari! Thanks mate.. You'll see how I go tonight
For the headlights I brought 2 relays.. 2 rolls of 12gauge wire 2 15a fuses
And some Phillips +85%vision globes(55-65w)
I wired 1 relay for low beams and one for high.. So I snipped the low beam wire and wired a wire from the existing wire going to the headlights and then ran it to the relay and then I ran one back across again to headligh from the relay and from thre I did a cross over to the other side. I did the same for the highs..
A big thanks had to to vn luke, ari, Scott and danny8.. They made it idiot proof for me. I just followed their instructions and got it first shot![]()
I can put up to 100w globes in but.. Id probably melt some things![]()
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sure mate ill get it now.. are u doing it to ur vn? cos i think they had relays for the headlights
ok it looks dodgy atm cos i havnt had time to hide the wiring or find a better spot for the relays
this is the relays on the strut top (that spot is probz just temory.. i just ran out of cable to put them in any hidden spots..
this is the low/high beam join going from relay to headlight (i did it to one side then bridged it across, their both equially as bright)
this is the join to it on the other side of the car
and this is the inline fuses...
like i said though. the cabiling looks sorta thrown together but its hard making it look neat coming off a relay :P
oh and here is the diagram danny 8 drew up for me..
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Last edited by Jonno; 15-07-2011 at 03:21 PM.
i have to be honest and thought your car would look crappy in the flesh.... i was wrong. really nice ride man! just a nice clean unit, something to be proud of. thanks for bringing it!
Your a legend mate!
Yeah its for the bloody VN, It keeps blowing the ORIGINAL globe, but only on the passenger side.... drives me nuts, replace globe, and within a week, its blown again!
Good luck with your car, looks the goods!
- Stockies.
Cheers for the diagram on how to do it mann, I think ill do the same to my VH when i replace the front some time before the end of the year..
Your car looks fair neat mann, Dont mind both the sets of rims you got, they look neat mate.
How did you go with the lowering? I was having a look at it and it was gonna cost me about $850 to lower it all properly, struts, shockers, springs, thats about right id assume.
Also How are you finding the kicker speakers? Im thinking of getting some, what are they?
Cheers Jonnoo, you have a nice name matee, Mines Johno aswell.
Take it easy buddy.
Sweet it took me under 1 hour to do it in the night
Honestly, I didn't pay a cent to lower it,
The guy I did work experience for taught me how to do it,
He just had spare sprigs cos he orders in bulks.. I think?
Just dropped the springs and put new ones in,
I don't think u should pay 850 lol!
Shop around and don't go to pedders![]()
sweet, thats good, ill have enough time to do a full weekends worth of work and then drive it to work monday
ohh soo jealouss mannn! soo jealouss!
hmm, yeah $850s a bit of a strech for me considering i bought the car for $600..
hmm really? whys that? and i went to king springs to get the $850.
Im still looking around, wouldnt mind a second hand set of lowered gear..
Cheers man.
replacing globes RE your PM:
undo 3 screws at the top inside of the dash surround
pop off the heater button console
undo the screw hidden behind the heater button console
lever the surround off. best way i found is to bend the middle downwardsand pop it out, then wriggle the bottom out.
you can only get it out about 100mm then the wiring for your warning lights will stop you. you need to gently wriggle the loom from under the speedo cluster than undo the big black plug by squeezing either side of it
once its undone, then sit it somewhere safe.
you should now have access to the speedo cluster screws. i think there are 6 but could be wrong. 3 top, 3 bottom, undo those then you will be able to GENTLY pull the drivers side outwards, and push the passenger side inwards. once you have got a large enough gap, you need reach in behind it. find the speedo cable and press the metal locking tab downwards and pull the cable. once it slides out the rest is a piece of cake.
undo the circle plug thingie on the back of the speedo cluster
the wiring for the heater buttons will be annoying. you need to loosen off the metal bracket thingie which held the dash surround on. once its loose you can wriggle the heater button wires out and...
i think thats it. then the globes are just a twist and pull.
So my wiper blades used to just skip across the windscreen
So this afternoon I went to repco(looking for a LED interior light.. Which i didn't find) -.-
And i decided to get a set of wiper arms and blades
20% off and another 20% of with my racv card
And now it's glides so smooth. So glad I changed them![]()
Love it mate, looks great!
Good to hear the headlights are better! I'll have to redo the ones in my wagz oneday. I done all the wiring to change it, but in the end I was in a rush to get the car on the road so put the original wiring in and the lights were dodgy as!! Was dangerous on the highway.
Here's the looms I made originally for it.
Here's the relays wired up. Only wires missing is the signal wires from the original loom.
I put plugs on everything so it can be unclipped so I can remove the headlight without having to pull the wiring off the headlight or indicator. Everything soldered and heat shrunk....these days I'm a bit lazy tho and just solder and use electrical tape around everything instead of heat shrink lol. Also didn't have H4 plugs so used terminals....altho now I got new plugs so will put them on the end, and yeah had to re-use the indicator sockets, but now found new ones! Go to someone who deals "NICE PRODUCTS" (http://www.niceproducts.com.au/) as they can get them (H4 and indicator sockets)....I know Repco can.
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