Trimatic keeps leaking

[DerekP]

Hi all
So my trimatic finally started leaking (what a surprise!) and I took it to my mechanic to repair. Long story short he had the box out twice over the space of a couple of weeks as it kept springing leaks and finally they put a full seal kit through it. I go to pick up the car and the senior mechanic is standing there scratching his head ('cause it has sprung yet another leak) saying he doesn't know why but maybe the pressue is too high and I will probably need a reco box??

Now before I take it to an automatic transmission specialist and spend another fortune (I have neither the knoweldge or tools to do it myself) I'd like to at least have an understanding of what is maybe going on with the box, any ideas guys?

The car is completely stock and original except genie headers so it ain't exactly high on the horse power side of things.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[ari666]

well 3 things come to mind;

1. possibly-maybe the pump is working too hard. no idea why it would do that.
2. one of the gallerys that the fuid flows through may be blocked thus creating too much pressure elsewhere
3. i would never touch a transmission. any sign of problems and i go staraight to the auto place.

[DerekP]

Hi ari666, yeah my thoughts exactly - wouldn't dream of touching it myself. Strange how it keeps springing these leaks however....

Do you reckon it's worth going for a turbo-hydramatic 350 (or 400) even though I want to keep it original? (VB 5.0's had TH350's so almost original!!).

[ari666]

well i like the trimatics myself, everyone burns me whenever i say that, but i have a shift kitted/stall coverted/remote cooled trimatic behind my VK it handles its 147.5rwkw very well. i have never had an issue with it since i got it rebuilt in 2008. and trust me it has had some punishment.

we had a discussion on here not long ago about rebuilding a trimatic and there was a member who got his rebuilt for 600 bucks i think. mine was 800 for rebuild/shift kit and 400 for 2500 stall. which is about average price and well worth it IMO

[DerekP]

Yeah it's probably the most cost effective way to do it since I'm not going to do anything too radical to the engine, I should'nt need anything stronger (you'd hope!). Growing up all I heard was turbo 400 this, turbo 400 that - started to think that was the only tranny to suit Holden V8!

Thanks for your input ari666, much appreciated.

[ari666]

lol, fyi 147.5 is almost 300HP at the fly. trimatics can take up to 400hP with a decent clutch kit. dont underestimate them

[NZVK308]

Breather? Filter slightly blocked... usualy high fluid pressure means lack of flow somewhere....Transmissions need to breathe just like engines do..

[DerekP]

Apparently fluid was coming out of the breather pipe! Funny, it was fine (apart from occasional overheating) until I had the ratiator replaced - I wonder if that has anything to do with it........

[ari666]

actually that would have a lot to do with it.

if fluid isnt flowing through your tanks itll be flowing elswhere, i guess you just found your own problem

[v8commy]

well i like the trimatics myself, everyone burns me whenever i say that, but i have a shift kitted/stall coverted/remote cooled trimatic behind my VK it handles its 147.5rwkw very well. i have never had an issue with it since i got it rebuilt in 2008. and trust me it has had some punishment.

we had a discussion on here not long ago about rebuilding a trimatic and there was a member who got his rebuilt for 600 bucks i think. mine was 800 for rebuild/shift kit and 400 for 2500 stall. which is about average price and well worth it IMO

i would be that member yep mines pretty quick getting dynod soon ive dragged off 33 25t sklines and kept up with gen3s so it not slow the only thing i need is a bigger or another transcooler and get the speedo corrected but yeh shifts hard no slipping and the stall is sick taking off sideways is insane

[commy vk]

Did U get a new rad or a used one?Sometimes even a new one will have loose bits floating around therefore before fitting it's always a good idea to get the garden hose out and give it a good flushing.I can't see how the hell the trans fluid is meant to cool down while it is flowing thru a radiator?A trans cooler is what I found the answer and it was only a few bucks and a cinch to fit,money well spent.
Re the oil leaks I replaced all of mine and found the one that was leaking was the shifter shaft which you have to take the pan off to get to,not too many dramas also.Cheers.

[DerekP]

No I got a new 3 line one and you'd think that a qualified mechanic would be able to fit it properly..... and I don't know how a hot radiator is supposed to keep a tranny cool either, go figure - I will definitely be fitting a trans cooler when the auto gets fixed as it is currently stuffed - wont' even change out of first and there is plenty of fluid in there also.

[commy vk]

Yep no worries sounds like U R getting there.I have found that going to a trans place is the best answer as they deal with them everyday.
I had a problem with my trans that was dropping down to 2nd and 1st while driving at 60kph and drove it in and the guy test drove it and told me it was a valve that needed replacing and I had that done with a service and low servo band service and still got change out of $200.Do U know that the car needs to be warm and running when U check for fluid?

[commy vk]

The seals that I replaced are
Speedo cable O ring
Selector shaft
Bell Housing
Extension Housing (rear)
Filler/dip stick O ring
Electric kickdown fitting (next to dipstick)
Only use specified torque on the sump bolts.
If the fluid is not a nice redish colour then there is the possibility that the clutch plates are worn and you would be experiencing slipping.

[ari666]

I had a problem with my trans that was dropping down to 2nd and 1st while driving at 60kph

easy fix for that is usually to check the vacuum hose from full vac on the carb to your trans. they persih more often than not and cause that exact issue. its a 2 dollar fix.

[ari666]

wont' even change out of first and there is plenty of fluid in there also.

if it wont change out of 1st i will bet a tonne that the little check ball is stuck, hence your fluid buildup. not cheap to fix and i wouldnt do it. straight to the tranny place.

[DerekP]

Yes operating temp and in drive, right? (let me know if this is worng) Problem is I don't fully trust my handbrake... I had a full seal kit put through so I assume that would cover the ones you list, but then again maybe I shouldn't be assuming anything!!!

Yep the old girl is definitley going to the auto doctor. I just wished I had taken it there before I took it to regular mechanics who clearly dont' know much about trimatics and savd myself a small fortune....

[v8commy]

yeh well youll love it once its fixed

[DerekP]

I certainly will, that's for sure!

Thanks.

[commy vk]

A few years ago I had a trimatic doing wierd things and while I was at Sprint Auto Parts for something else I mentioned it to the guy that was serving me.He seemed pretty well informed and confident which I liked and he suggested a bottle of Transmission Conditioner and told me that this would free up any sticky valves.Guess what?It worked and I drove around for years after with no problems only doing the usual bi yearly service.

[leigh 7005]

a rebuild kit is only about $250 a shift kit is $100 its not as hard as you think to rebuild a trimatic but a turbo 350 400 700 thats another story you just need a book and a few tools and a standard stall is about $250

[DerekP]

Forgive me for being a little naive but what exactly is a shift kit and what is it's purpose? I have heard the term bandied around a fair bit and I have to be honest I've never really known what it does....

While you are at it you might want to explain the 'ol stallie to me too!!

Cheers heaps

[immortality]

shift kits come in a various forms. the most basic have some new springs, check balls and a few drill bits. what you do is change the size of some of the holes in the separator plate, this changes the amount of fluid that flows through the various circuits in the valve body. by changing the springs you alter how much fluid pressure is applied to a particular circuit which dictates how quickly the box changes gear. the servo dictates the amount of pressure that is applied to the band. a better servo with more surface area applies more force on the band so it doesn't slip and it also increases the speed that it changes into gear.

some shift kits come with new separator plates

stage 1 shift kit is the most basic
stage 2 shift kit is what most people use and normally includes a new servo
stage 3 shift kits are normally a full manual conversion where the driver needs to use the gear selector to change gears

traumatics aren't the worst box in the world. they are the lightest of the 3 speeds used (lightest gear sets etc) they may not be as strong as a T350 or T400 box but they also suck less power to drive. certainly in any application that is less then 400hp a built traumatic should be fine. i have read a article where a traumatic was rebuilt to handle 600hp+ but there was some serious coin involved

the only issue i have with the traumatic is it's bad habit of changing from 1st straight to 3rd. i tend to drive it manually and lock it into 2nd when taking off quickly

[DerekP]

Mate thank you very much for taking the time to explain that to me, it's all becoming so much clearer now!
With shifts kits in mind do you think it is worth my while getting a stage 1 or 2 fitted while the old girl is at the auto doctor? Bearing in mind I will be keeping the car mostly original (except for some minor improvements) so HP is not going to be an issue. I hate that 1st to 3rd change too, does my head in....

Cheers

Derek

[immortality]

i've only really looked at the T700/4L60e shift kits and not 100% certain on the trimatic ones. but normally the stage 2 kit is the winner.

i prefer manual boxes. i'm going to rebuilt my trimatic with shift kit and a decent stall converter and if i still don't like it then i'll throw a T5 behind it instead