Blue/black Dizzies And Stuff.

[burnz]

didn't the blue cam have a nylon gear drive

[matt69]

i chewed up 2 plastic gears on the end of my dizzy on my blue 202 vc till i got a metal one from the wreckers for $11.00

[unregistered]

Does anyone have an advance curve for a stock black 202? Im doing an experiment an i need a basic advance curve for this engine.

[Wheelz60]

Further to bjturtle's comment.

I've just made the change from the VK EST dissy to the VH HEI dissy.

There is a difference in the rotors for each dissy.
The rotor-shaft from the EST dissy is thinner than the HEI one.
The top of the rotor looks to be the same.

I dont know if there is multiple models of dissy in the VK.

While in Supercheap, I looked at the parts catalogue, and the two have different part numbers.
HTH.

[figjamidhVK8t4]

hey guys i need some i swaped the est for the hei but i need wiring help....
84 VK 3.3 carb

[figjamidhVK8t4]

hook it all up and i dont have spark

[glassfork]

<<< 1) Make sure that you also get the blue HEI dizzy as you will need to use that, due to the vk running a computer for the timing (doesnt have vacuum advance). ... >>>


is that aswell as something or meaning make sure i get a blue hei dizzy... sorry im new to working on cars

[HoldenMad]

On advice from many folks, I am switching from EST to HEI Dizzy.

I have 2 questions.

1) If I am not replacing the thermostat housing, where should the vacuum advance connect to?

2) Do I leave the EST connected, or can I rip the box out and blank up the plug, or can I completely remove the whole EST loom?

[Pub247]

Holdenmad just hook the vacum line up to any tvs on manifold or wherever and you can just unplug est unit.

[Crazymatt4546]

so when i put a weber 34adm on my 202 what exactly do you mean by "modifying the accelerator cable mount" does it just need to be bent or do i have to weld some kind of tag to it?

[RedVK]

Hey, I have an 85 VK 202 Black 5spd, runs okay, but i am at a loss as to where the hell my temp sensor is.... My E.S.T has been playing up recently, and i have no working display on the dash in relation to my engine temp... the engine idles at about 850, and under acceleration it feels almost like the donk is being flooded, resulting in a large power loss across the revs. Having had a quick scan across the forums, I see that this is a common problem... i'd like to see if i can fix it before it gets too ridiculous whatwith fuel prices... put it this way.... you would expect 42 Litres of 92RON to last at least more then 270 kays, but it didnt...

HEEEEELP!!!

(Cheers if ya can)

(images would be great!!!)

[85_VK_EFI]

Hey im new to justcommodores, i have a 1985 VK 202 EFI. When i saw this thread i thought i should ask wot colour is my motor coz it has a lot of red painted crap and so do a lot of EFI VK's but i thought they didnt come with red motors.
Also this thread talks a lot about the carbie motors and how to more power and differences and stuff like that wot about the EFI how can i get more power.
Thanx

[atrail308]

the EFI 202 was a black motor painted red, if you know what i mean...
as for some tweaks to your 6, better intake and a mild cam should make some difference...

[robbo10]

Hey, HSKEV260R8. And anybody else interested.
Have a look at the build date of the vehicles. You will find there is a commencement date for the fitting of airpumps to vehicles and includes the gallery along the top of the exhaust ports. I have a VK SL 3300 (202) that you can have the airpump from, if you want it(the pump still works). The pumps were fitted to all petrol powered vehicles as part of the ADR requirement of the time, prior to catalytic converters being mandated. Don't believe it achieved anything worthwhile though, except putting more money towards the fuel companies and causing horse power loss.

[oldmatevh]

just wanted to know main difference with vh and vk carby?i got a vh and have a fully rebuilt vk carby will this work ok?

[vk202]

hi mate the temp sensor is located near #6 spark plug ive put up a pic to show u were you should find it

[86VL5spd]

Hi ive got a VK and cant get my temp gague to work, was wondering which and where is the wire for it? lot of wires have been cut in engine bay?

Also my dizzy hasnt been put in prply, was wondering how to set it up correctly coz for it to run nice i have to turn it right into engine and it keeps breaking then vac hose off?

Thanks Damo!!!

[commsirac]

I refitted my electronic dizzy with a metal drive, but perhaps that wasnt the right thing to do. Not sure about the full story on these, but here are some things for consideration:

As stated ^ previously, the gears "may" have been made out of plastic in order to protect the drive gear on the cam.
I have heard of some problems occuring with missfires on electronic dizzys with the metal drive fitted between 6-7000rpm that is cured by fitting the nylon/plastic drive........dont ask me how or why....I dont know! (perhaps some type of resonance problem)
Holden designed these parts with 200000km ~15 year lifespan in mind, so just like the speedo drive and driven gears these parts dont last much longer.
Perhaps the best thing to do is to replace the plastic drive every 80000km or ten years.

[philbio]

I think it should be mentioned that the VK varajet carburettor does not have a vacuum advance port to attach the VH HEI distributor to (only port available is below butterfly and 'constant' vacuum). It appears that I will now have to source an earlier version with the port or somehow modify the VK varajet model (drill hole)?

I am happy to take further advice on this.

Update:

In speaking with a carburettor shop the VK carburettor has to be drilled and then fitted with a Holden Camira Base. I chose to replace the carburettor with a VH model.

[vulkus]

All you do is pull out the EST dizzy, and drop in a blue HEI dizzy. The pink wire stays connected to the + side of the coil, and the 2 wires from the HEI one hook onto the coil too. It's as easy as that. There is a brown wire in the VK that hooks onto the coil neg terminal for the tacho.

My question is this, I have the donor car with the HEI, I have my car with the EST.
Do I need to static time the engine first?
Or do I just throw salt over my shoulder and pull out the EST dizzy and plop in the HEI?

[edsvk]

i own a vk wagon with a black motor, at a certain point it developes a vibration througout the cari i tried changing from the EST ignition to HEI but had a large amont of problems so changed back to the EST unit. I have also tried other EST units with no success and rebuit the Varajet 2 carby twice. What could the cause of this be? any help would be appreciated

[hiy_po]

This might be a bit off topic but did the 173 (3.0inch stroke) blue motor crank get any treatment to lift its torsional vibration up the rev range same as the 3.3 cranks (thanks to the extra counter weights). or is the 2.8 blue crank the same as the 173 red crank ??
Thanks

Back on topic I have spent the last few days fitting and experimenting with a MSD BTM #6462. I used the EST crank trigger and EST dizzy + rotor with the MSD taking over the timing from the EST computer. It didnt work for me, it detonated its rings out on my turbo but with a std VK est it may be a good upgrade to get a bit extra out of the 3.3 varajet combo. I would think any of the 6ALs out there would wire and run the same as the BTM Im using.
I removed the crank trigger and EST dizzy + rotor and dropped in a VH bosch electronic distributer I removed the module and wired the pickup wires from the dizzys coil (opposite to the std setting) to the magnetic pickup on the MSD. This works better but I still cant get any adjustment. Turning the dizzy seems to do nothing to alter the timing.
My best result so far has been by not using the magnetic pickup on the MSD but by removing the green wire from the coil and connecting it to the white wire on the MSD. Then the pinkish wire from the dizzy (+ve on the coil) gets hooked in with the red wire and the ignition +ve wire from the loom.
Ill still tuning so Ill update if I find anything interesting out.

Next day: I removed the module from the Bosch dizzy along with the two wires that normally go to the coil. Hooked the Bosch's magnetic trigger up to the MSD's magnetic pickup but crossed them over ie small plug to large spade, big plug to small spade. I also removed all of the mechanical/centrificle advance from the blue motor dizzy so it is now locked with no advance. After an afternoon of testing I have the boost upto 11psi and have the retard set to 2 on the BTM. I set the inital static timing to 12degrees. The car is starting easier and is way better to get moving without having to ride the clutch. the lag is noticeably reduced. It pulls hard and faultless upto the 6000rpm rev limiter. It was hard to wipe the smiles of our faces as we put the car away tonight.

[mightyredvc]

hope this is the right place to post this...

i fitted a weber 34 adm to my blue, made the adapter and everything my self, and was really happy with the results. more power, better economy, easier starting, all the good stuff.

problem is it chewed through 3 throttle cables in 12 months. i can see the angle is wrong and all but i have no idea how to fix it. it mentioned in the start to the thread that the linkage needs modifying. how?
what exactly do i need to do?

[AJ-VL-23]

I have a VH 202 auto bluemotor, the HEI dizzy was broken i now have what i believe to be a redmotor standard vacuum advanced one in there which works fine, i was wondering where these three wires go and if they are related?


Green i wired to the temp sensor and the brown i wired to the alternator, i have what i think is a vk thermostat housing which also has a temp sensor in it, should i wire this wire to that instead of the one near plug 6? or will the one near plug 6 work fine? i have a VC stage 2 dash installed without a tacho

also i fitted a CAIN intake manifold and a 350 holley, i used the pipe from the side of the carb to the dizzy vacuum advance i copied this from the patrol that the holley was from, i don't have any EGR gear as i have extractors fitted, this is how i have put the rest of the vacuum pipes, there is a pipe on the baseplate of the carby but it has been clamped shut should i move any of my pipes there?



i have no understanding of how the thermal vacuum switches work and at the moment they are bypassed if i need to use them how would i go about rigging them up, i also looped my pcv system back into itself, is this much of an issue?

sorry for all the questions at once, any info is much appreciated

[AJ-VL-23]

-----bump^