VK motor temperature problems

[VKuser]

I was wondering if other VK owners with high powered motors have experienced the same problem - Remove letterbox grille and also number plate and I can get the temp to come down 195F when travelling on the highway a drop approx 10F but cannot drive around like this ....... yes my other mates have strokered motors and gone to either PWR or Desert Coolers and have had success immediately too cold sometimes ........ I believe it is trying to get enough air into the radiator to cool it down and also the amount of heat generated around the engine bay is the problem with the VK's like to hear your comments especially from VK owners ....... Cheers

History with the problem at the moment car runs around 210 220F open highway 190 - 200F around the street ambient temp around 36- 38C
1 - High flow water pump and matching thermostat ( new )
2 - 4 core brass radiator triple bypass for better cooling ( pulled down and checked )
3 - AU thermo fans and correct direction ( new )

[vkberlina]

My problem was a 60thou bored block I cant really understand why but when i moved the internals except pistons of course into a 40 thou block i havent had the cooling probs i used to have.

Also cooling system
The faster the water through the engine isnt always better, dont forget the faster it goes the less time it has to cool in the radiator before it goes back into a hot engine.
I also found a larger 2 core radiator worked better than a 4 core radiator, my theory the air passing over the multiple cores heats up and works less effectivly, from memoryt he PWR alloys are 2 core.

I used to run an 18" electric fan and has major cooling issues ended up back with the original clutch fan to solve my probs. When i get a chance to spend some money i want to go back to electrics with a PWR alloy radiator.

also check your radiator cap if it isnt holding pressure it will boil as well.

cheers
Scott

[VKuser]

I will get the cap tested and not to help this issue I am not losing great amount of water probaly 1/3rd of a cup if your lucky on a big run ....... cheers

[Darkman]

Make sure the cowl around fans is seated on radiator other wise you cant get max air through radiator. Also if the block is 60 thou - like VKBerlina - this menas a lot less metal in the wall between cylinder and water jacket and it heats up way water way quicker due to heat transfer, physics thing.
Maybe try havin the thermos kickin a bit sooner 5 or 10 deg - easier to keep it cooler than try to cool it down, (nuther physics thing) did similar with one of my old girls. still not best in peak hour traffic but does the job.

Also make sure you got the right mix of antiboil/freeze - need a higher ratio for hotter(worked) motor

[kego]

we did some testing with a brand new standard rad and a JAR and PWR rad and we found that yes both the alloys worked a little better but realy the brand new standard rad was realy realy good.

all rads had twin Craig Davies thermo fans, brand new water pump, brand new thermostat and brand new coolant.
all tests were done on 500hp 355 in a vk with the HTD cold air scoop.
and we tested lower temp thermostats, i am now running a 85 degrease thermostat.
and we had a different temp switch so the thermo fans come on a sooner as well.

hope that helps mate.

[v8commy]

My problem was a 60thou bored block I cant really understand why but when i moved the internals except pistons of course into a 40 thou block i havent had the cooling probs i used to have.

Also cooling system
The faster the water through the engine isnt always better, dont forget the faster it goes the less time it has to cool in the radiator before it goes back into a hot engine.
I also found a larger 2 core radiator worked better than a 4 core radiator, my theory the air passing over the multiple cores heats up and works less effectivly, from memoryt he PWR alloys are 2 core.

I used to run an 18" electric fan and has major cooling issues ended up back with the original clutch fan to solve my probs. When i get a chance to spend some money i want to go back to electrics with a PWR alloy radiator.

also check your radiator cap if it isnt holding pressure it will boil as well.

cheers
Scott

would have been that you were to close to your water jackets and heat was generating into the water

[ari666]

my problem was really simple in the end, the two heater hoses on the water pump were on the wrong way round. one of them was pumping directly into the path the other one was pumping, and the 2nd hose had no flow at all cos' both sides were meant to recieve (if that makes sense) was hitting half temp everyday, most days 3/4 temp, swapped the two hoses and it sits on 1/4 temp, hasnt been over 1/2. even on a scorcher of a day we had recently.

edit* mind you mine is just a hot cam 308, not a 355...

[VKuser]

VK berlina - the block is bored 40thou - cheers
Darkman - Yes the cowling is flat against the radiator and also I have lowered the thermo fan setting to come on earlier and the thermostat comes on around 160F was 180F

ari666 - I wish that mine was that easy - thank you guy's for your input