:):):)
i reallllly want to do these v6 conversions.
i dont plan to keep my vk for verry long but u no im bored and my one tonner is almost done
i want to have fun with my vk
by doing one of the vn,vp,vr conversions in the sticky thread
i just cant find actually how hard it would be i have all the tools etc. but i want to know
just how hard and how much money ide be looking at..
and i dont understand engioneer certificates at all.
can someone help explain all this too me
expecially engioneer certificateeeees?
thanks guys
Originally Posted by BIGbrown1
:):):)
and how would i go with a vs eco
The newer the engine the harder it gets, as VR forward have a BCM (Body control Module) which controls all the airbags and stuff like that, but it talks to the ECU for the engine relaying various data back and forward and just adds another level of complexity to the wiring as you have to gets a BCM simulator or reprogram the ECU so it doesnt go into limp home mode because it cant find the BCM, same thing with VR forward auto's, they are electronically controlled and if the computer cant talk to it, it basically panics because it thinks theres no gearbox and goes into limp home mode as well.
Engineers certificate is just a certificate saying your new modified vehicle meets all safety and emissions standard, or ADR (Australian design rules). So with a V6 fitted the engineer will inspect your vehicle and check to make sure all your wiring, were you run your fuel lines, engine mounting, the engine has all it emissions gear hooked up- catalytic converter ect. Then if they are satisfied with your work they will approve your vehicle and rivet a stamp to it stating your new engine/ vehicle combination is legal and so if you get pulled over theres no trouble with the fuzz.
As for difficulty, it really depends on your skill but seeing you 1 tonner project im sure you could manage. The easiest way is to simply to unbolt your whole entire front end setup and lift the body off the engine and front suspension, obviously after you have taken off all the wiring connections and hoses and tailshaft ect off. So all you need is some sort of overhead crane or a gantry or something like that, or you can just get a whole heap of your mates and lift the body off. And the do the same thing in reverse but with the new engine and VN K frame . Then the wiring is the hardest part, and the difficulty will depend on what model engine you use. Best bet is to go for a conversion kit wiring kit with the plug the connects into your existing harness and has instructions on what exactly to do, like this goes here that gos there, you get what i mean. You got it easy with your fuel tank as yours is already EFI so the pump and return lines arent a drama, you can just hack into them somewhere.
Anyone else feel free to correct me.
"..of mice and men.."
One way would be to try and buy a running wreck, that way you'l get everything you need, engine, all the harness and computers and stuff, also transmission.
But most likely you may need a custom tail shaft made up to suit your VK, to make up for the difference in dimensions.
VK wheelbase: 2668mm.
VN - VS wheelbase: 2731mm.
On the 7th day, God created Holden, then on the 8th day, God created Ford, to keep idiots out of Holden's.
Carpark Mechanic.....
Yeah, just buy a running wreck, i was offered a wrecked VS for $350 a little while back, was going to do an eco conversion..
JONNO, are you intending this on your P's???
[09-01, 22:47] HoZy: VKC doesnt finger, He fists... Because Ranga
:):):)
vk sl 202 thanks for all that mate thanks for explaining it all etc i understand it all now
vkcomo, not allowed to for p plates im pretty sure, ill have my wagon or work car by the time i get my ps
so ill just be using it every now and again
For your tailshaft if you use a T5 manual, the front half of manual VN and rear half of a VL are exactly the right lenght. Auto im not sure what you use, probably VN auto front half the VL rear.
:):):)
ill probz have to go auto
will i need a new diff?
Being a VK 6cyl it should have a Borgwarner diff which would handle the power, it is probably a 2.89:1 ratio diff, and all V6 commodores run 3.08:1, so you may want to change the ratio depending on how well it goes with the current one, being a higher ratio diff it may make the car feel a bit sluggy but it would improve fuel economy as your engine revs less in any given gear, but being lighter it might be just fine, either way the diff can wait until later.
Last edited by VK SL 3800; 20-04-2010 at 11:08 PM.
"..of mice and men.."
Wouldn't 2.89:1 be 'higher' than 3.08:1, not 'lower'?
I always thought the bigger the number, like say bigger 3's or 4's, would be a 'lower' gear ratio, so it revs higher.
But a smaller number, like lower 3's or 2's, would be a 'higher' or 'taller' ratio, so it revs less?
Or have I had that back to front all this time?
On the 7th day, God created Holden, then on the 8th day, God created Ford, to keep idiots out of Holden's.
yeh mate your right, its really late and im pretty tired lol, ill edit it just a sec.....
VK 1/2 Borg Warner diffs had 3.23:1 ratio
VKJonno has an auto so wouldnt it have a high diff to make up for less gears? I know my VK 6cyl has a 3.23:1 and was a 4spd, and my VK 5ltr is an auto and its 2.60:1 but its got a salisbury.
Carpark Mechanic.....
good.. because i was going to say dont do it because you would have to get it engineered and then apply for an exemption..vk sl 202 thanks for all that mate thanks for explaining it all etc i understand it all now
vkcomo, not allowed to for p plates im pretty sure, ill have my wagon or work car by the time i get my ps
so ill just be using it every now and again
Wagon?? work car?? do tell
[09-01, 22:47] HoZy: VKC doesnt finger, He fists... Because Ranga
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