Problems when buying a vh?

[smi5575]

To all of you with experience in owning a vh and because they are so old, what general problems and set backs have you had in modding your cars?


Cheers Ben

[BENJAMUM]

Rust and trying 2 find good parts eg rebuilding a 202 lol

[smi5575]

fair enough also as im only 19 i can't get a v8, well i can but I might get busted, do they attract much police attention?

[BENJAMUM]

hahahah funni story i just got my licence back got cought driving a v8 on my ps, 7 points for driving a high performance vehicle and 2 for no p lates and lost it for 3 mths lol just half 2 wait 3 mths for my blacks now lol

[smi5575]

oh no that sucks what state ru in? and how do they determine if its a high performance vehicle?

Im sure there are people driving around with routed v8's that struggle to get from a to b

[BENJAMUM]

Im in NSW no v8,turbos,supercharges except if its desiel thats y i think it should b power 2 weight

[smi5575]

yer we have similar rules here but I'm not sure what happens if we get caught with a v8, I've heard its just a warning. I'm stuck in a dilemma I want a vh so bad, i don't know why I am so fond of these cars but every time i see one i just feel something and I think i have to just have one of them. the sound the look its just too much for me, I'm overwhelmed lol, kind of like an ex gf that I can't get over lol. But to get a good one they are all v8's.

On the other had i could get a vz but i don't have the passion I've always had for the early girls, I just don't know what to do anymore.

Go with my heart or with my head? I fear that I'll never be satisfied until I own a Vh

[Darren_L]

the VH was the third revision of the first gen body shell, so a lot of the problems had been ironed out.

Keep in mind the VH is approaching 30 years old, so age will take it's toll on cars that haven't been restored.

Rust - common places are under the front and rear windscreen seals. Not always detectable, but often you can feel lumps in the windscreen rubbers if you run your fingers over them. Chances are there is going to be at least some rust under the screens, unless it's already been repaired. They also like to rust behind the bottom of the rear wheel arches. Mud gets caught up in the corner of the gaurds and rusts out. Also pay attention the sills, if the water drains are blocked the sills will also rust. Have a good look at the boot floor and the tail light panel (inside boot). Leaking tail lights that aren't rectified allow water into these areas and often rust bad if neglected. Rust can also occur in the area behind the kickpanel. Leaking windscreen runs water into these areas, usually you will only notice the rust if you remove a front gaurd - but can be seen if you look hard enough.

Wiring can also be a source of problems, but not something that can't be repaired. Main connector in the engine bay (near the firewall drivers side) tends to melt causing loss of power to the entire car. Usually the best fix is to cut the connector out and solder the wires. Crappy ceramic fuses under dash can also cause headaches. I'm planning on converting the fuse box to blade fuses

If the car has been dumped on it's guts, riding bump stops etc for too long, sometimes the weld where the quarter panel meets the roof, can crack - crack/s in the paint around that area are a giveaway.

Suspension bushes are usually stuffed if they haven't already been replaced. Can make the car an absolute dog to drive if the bushes are flogged out. However, not an overly expensive exercise to replace. Also check the strut top rubbers. Also check the upper bearing on the steering column (check for vertical & lateral movement in steering wheel)

The blue motors were good engines. No real issues with them, apart from usual wear & tear, oil leaks. Trimatics are usually trouble free. The M20 & M21 manual gearboxes are rather fragile - particularly behind the V8's. Check for crunching gears, excessive noise etc.

Check tailshaft centre support rubber, they usually crack with age.

Not many parts are available from Holden these days, so you are going to have to rely on second hand bits from wreckers, aftermarket bits from the likes of e-bay, repco & rare spares. The majority of parts are still available if you are willing to look around - just be prepared to pay inflated prices for some parts - especially NOS parts.

Overall these cars have held up well for their age, whilst there are a lot of neglected examples around - I do often see some well looked after VH's for sale. If you plan on going down the V8 path, don't overlook a good condition VH 6cyl. The conversion to a V8 is very easy, much easier than repairing a V8 VH full of rust etc

Probably going to need to spend some time & money on a VH (unless you buy one already restored). But they are well worth the effort IMO. Great classic Commodore look, not too big, not too small. A feather weight at around 1300kg! I'd never get rid of mine - love it too much.

[vk.jonno]

On the other had i could get a vz but i don't have the passion I've always had for the early girls, I just don't know what to do anymore.

Go with my heart or with my head? I fear that I'll never be satisfied until I own a Vh

dude.. thats deep.

[DerekP]

Go with the VH. They are a great old bus, the last of the chrome bumbers. I have owned three VH's over the last 18 years or so and never had a major problem. I drove to Queensland and back twice in two of them and they never let me down. Darren_L pretty much summed any issues you may experience but all in all I'd say pretty minor compared to what can go wrong with modern cars, but then I'm a little biased!...

I will add however, if you do go with a VH try and get one with low K's - they are around I see then all the time in the trading post / car sales. One that has been garaged and serviced all it's life by the same elderly owner....

[smi5575]

Thanks for the advice darren I have read about your Vh before and you gave me some advice on a vh I almost bought a while back in December.

I was planning on buying one that has already had a fair bit of cash spent on it so I wont have to worry about getting it roadworthy first and hopefully all the running gear all in good order.

I was considering the option of doing a injected v6 conversion. Does anyone know what is involved a job like this? I have read about people having to change their brake booster and master cylinder?

Also do I have to change the K frame (not 100% sure what this is) and fuel tank? And if so why?

also I'm in no rush and I'm open to new ideas so feel free to speak what you think, any advice is appreciated
thanks again

[Darren_L]

my pleasure mate

V6 conversion is fairly easy.
Yes you need a crossmember/k-frame out of a V6 Commodore. It bolts straight up.
Yes you will need an EFI fuel tank (they have a swirl pot inside). Easiest swap is a VL 6 cylinder tank
There are conversion wiring harnesses available from the likes of www.caenterprises.com.au - EFI Conversions

And no you don't need to change the brake booster & master cylinder - they are essentially the same as the VH. I'd recommend using a 1 inch master cylinder though if the VH doesn't already have one fitted and you'll need rear disc brakes fitted

[smi5575]

Thanks darren your advice is very helpful and I still have a lot of thinking and planning before I decide what I want to do.
Because I am so young I sometimes feel like I am over my head, in modifying car world, that's why I really appreciate your advice, cheers.

[GenReaper]

Check the floor pan around the seat rail mountings as well and make sure it has no cracks.
Best bet is to chuck it on a hoist before buying and have it inspected.