VB Starting Issues

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Hello everyone,

I have a slight issue with my car.
When the engine is cold car takes a very long time to start / warm up, and when it does it warm up I might drive off and then suddenly it'll stop (as i'm pushing the accelerator), it'll start I rev it and drive off, all good, then a little while later will happen again, and then after that the car is fine, it's getting a bit annoying because my old kingswood doesn't do it, so there should be no reason why this can't be the same.

I've noticed that,
- Air Filter Breather hose is damaged and taped on, air is restricted. (could this be a major cause)
- I haven't used the fuel additive for a few tanks now.
- Carb is clean.
- It feels like the car doesn't get enough air and thats the reason why it's stopping rather then it not getting enough fuel.

what do you all think?

Thank You

[VK SL 3800]

Not using additive is extremely bad if you drive a high speeds and/or drive hard, it flogs out your valve seats in no time so just use it, buy bulk way cheaper. If its running cool rep[lace the thermostat. they are about 10 bucks so why not, by breather hose do you mean the PCV hose? the one with the little metal valve in the tappet cover? Just by some new hose, it needs replacing regardless if its held on by tape, whether its the problem or not just replace it. Have you ever pulled out the PCV valve and stuck your finger over the end when the engine is idling hot? because when you do the idle speed drops and it will struggle to idle smooth from lack of air as its is the way the engine is tuned to run- so having restriction in it might just be your problem. My old Belmont ute is shocking to drive until it warms up, it wont idle so you pull the choke out then it dies cause its got to much fuel, but once it warms up its a-ok.

[VR38]

Does it still have points, weak spark could do it, also what carby is on it and is it in good serviceable condition and well tuned?

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Thank You for the replies, I don't mean the PCV one on the back but the one more towards the front (i'll upload a pic tomorrow), I have a replacement for both so i'll do that tomorrow. I'll try to warm the engine and place my hand over it and see how it struggles.
First thing i'll do is add the additive tomorrow, I didn't have any with me @ last fill up, i'll make sure I have some with me from now on.
To VR38 I haven't taken out the spark plugs & leads as they were changed in Jan this year by previous owner when the car had blue slip, I"ll inspect this tomorrow and report back. I"ll also check what carby is on it, I would say it's in good serviceable condition from what I can see. However I don't have a clue when it was last tuned, I would say it needs one.

[VK SL 3800]

Doesnt have to be warm, just make it easy cause it wants to idle properly. If its stock i think VBs still had a single barrel stromberg but im not quite sure.

[VR38]

Might need some points and a tune up, IMO if it still has points dizzy I would be looking into converting the system to HEI.

[ari666]

personally, i think you should change your thermostat...

but hey! spark plugs could do it too... sounds like either the choke isnt adjused, TVS isnt working or the thermostat is simply letting all the cold water through and stopping it from heating up properley. the flat spots (when you put your pedal down and it dies) will go away with a tune. fuel additive makes zero difference as long as you fill up on premium.

[mainpath]

Thank you very much for the replies they helped me a lot in locating the source of the problem.

I found that on the air cleaner box the plastic on which the breather connects was totally broken and incorrect hose was used.
I also found a thin breather cable (?) going from the carb to the distributor was broken i repaired it as i dont have a spare, i took the air filter box off the kingswood, put it on the VB, connected everything up correctly and it seems to work okay now.
The engine was a bit warm when i did this but that flat spot seems to have almost disappeared, i think what was causing the majority of the problems was the friggen box. I'll try this theory out properly tomorrow morning once the engine is cool again.
I think i still need to adjust the carb as mentioned above, i know the thermostat is so simple and cheap to change but i just want to explore everything else before that.

Thanks again for the replies.

[ari666]

the vacuum hose to the dizzy is your vacuum advance, if it was perished, then it'd be doing two things. 1. leaking precious vacuum, 2. not advancing your dizzy, so then your whole TVS system would be defunct, hence it not running properley when cold.

the breather on the airbox wouldnt make much of a difference.

good to see you sorting it out yourself though

[PirateJoe]

personally, i think you should change your thermostat...

but hey! spark plugs could do it too... sounds like either the choke isnt adjused, TVS isnt working or the thermostat is simply letting all the cold water through and stopping it from heating up properley. the flat spots (when you put your pedal down and it dies) will go away with a tune. fuel additive makes zero difference as long as you fill up on premium.

Fuel additive makes all the difference if you dont want to destroy your valve seats. Unless you already have hardened seats fitted..
Thermostat isnt going to cause flat spotting or rough running or stalling.

Good job finding the vacumn leak.

[Darren_L]

as said the vacuum advance hose leaking more than likely would have been the main source of your problems.
It won't be an air intake issue, or the car would do the same thing when it's up to operating temps.

& yeah VB's ran points & a stromberg carb

[ari666]

Thermostat isnt going to cause flat spotting or rough running or stalling.

lol, ok then mate. whatever you say.

edited* to make more sense for further arguments.

[Lewie]

my VH was running really crap recently. It was diagnosed as mutipile vacuum leaks and seized EGR system butterflies. Same symptoms including NO thermostat. Put one in, replaced some hoses and little tree things that stick out of the intake manifold, pulled apart the intake and exhaust manifolds and replaced the gaskets and got rid of the EGR butterflies all together and it really runs sooooo much better. smoother and much nicer. I actually thought I'd dropped a valve at one point. Until recently I never really considered running without a thermostat to be much of an issue. I see it now though.

My $0.02

[c2105026]

I agree with some of the above - replace the thermostat. But whilst under the hood, consider some new spark plugs and leads ($50), air filter ($15), points, rotor ($20), and if u think u are up to it a new carb repair kit ($30). oh, and new emissions tubing ($30). c.1980 red motors are surprisingly complex given their assumed simplicity

[VR38]

EGR butterflies???

[Lewie]

VR38

EGR butterflies???

I think I meant EFE not EGR. I dunno. Check out the pic. The "valves" (butterflies) had seized so I filed them off got rid of the "EFE Vacuum Motor" altogether and blocked off the vacuum hose to the motor.

[VR38]

Oh them butterflies, like imagine coming on a forum and announcing "hey, I have a great idea, lets put these big restrictions in our exhaust to make the world a better place"
Now I'm sure Holdens did not want to do it but they had to sell cars and this is what the govt. wanted, goes to show how stupid big brother is.

[ari666]

i think they put them on to help with cold starts actually...