I recently blew the motor on my paddock bomb (VH) which was a blue 202. My mate has a red 202 in working condition that he doesnt need. Would this fit straight into the VH? The new motor came from a HJ Kingswood which was a manual 4sp and the VH is auto. Thanks.
You'd need to change the sump and oil pick up to a commodore one, other than that - should fit. (use the commodore engine mounts)
Although I think the manifolds are different?
It won't pass for a registered car, but for a paddock basher, it'l be fine
So i can just use the sump and pick up off the old motor then?? And prehaps the manifold if need be?
PS. If you've seen this car then you'll know there no way it'll ever be registered haha!
Not 100% sure if the blues and reds are identical, I think the coolant/oil galleries are different inside the head, but i'm not sure if the ports on them are different aswell?
I'm pretty sure when we put the blue 6 - 3.3L (came out of my VH) into my sisters HQ, we used a red sump off a 202 (to suit the HQ) It might've just been painted red though?
At a guess, I'd say you could use the sump and oil pickup from the motor that is in the car now, (blue, to suit the commy) and use the exhaust and inlet manifolds off the red motor if he has them, And you should be right.
But wait for confirmation on that, theres a few guys that know there old 6's pretty well.![]()
Your manifolds off the blue motor will not fit the red motor head. You can fit the blue motor head to the red motor, but you will need to drill some holes in the head to line up the water galleries. This can be done by using a red motor head gasket on the blue head, then mark and drill the holes. To get around doing this, you could get a manifold and exhaust from a VB commodore, as they had red motors in them.
As mentioned above, you will need to use the blue motor sump and pickup, and use the blue motor's engine mounts.
You will also need to change the spigot bush in the end of the crank to change the red motor from manual to auto, along with the flexplate/flywheel.
It will be easier to use the blue motor's dizzy and coil, too, as the car's wiring is set up for this. It is just a straight swap over.
There's probably a few more things that I have forgotten.....
That may be a problem as the reason the blue motor blew up was because of the sump. Hmm...
If the sump has ahole in it you can weld it up with a mig or oxy. Its only made from sheet metal that has been pressed into shape so you can knock any dents out with a hammer cut bits out and weld it or do anything with it really.
do like my mate did. 2 plates of 3mm steel a bit bigger than the hole, sika flex on one side of each, 6mm hole in the middle of em, stick em' on the sump either side and do up a bolt and nut in the 6mm hole. worked a treat, except there was a small amount of leakage from the bolt hole.
if you dont have a welder that is.
It's fine, i checked the sump and found no damage. However i did find a large hole on the side of the block that is about 6 inches in diametre, that might be the problem haha. Also found out that the red 202 wasn't the original motor from the HJ if that makes any difference?
Sounds like your old Blue motor threw a rod. It doesnt matter if the red motor wasnt an original HJ engine. All red motors bolt up the same and have nine port heads. Blue motors have twelve port heads so the manifolds are different. Red motors seem to hang together longer than Blue motors. I think it is because red motors didnt have as much emissions crap to make them run hot.
So basically, the red should bolt straight up but only with the blue's sump, oil pickup and engine mounts? Oh and also the blue's distributor?
Also, just wondering what the stock carb size is and what would be a good upgrade?
A holley 350 would be the easiest upgrade for a 202, but I have heard of some people using a Weber(?) carby from a XD/E Falcon. You could probably try the blue motor carby on the red, but you'll need a different manifold.
I've been curious about running a two-barrel stromberg from a 253 on a red 202, but I don't have a working car with a red motor anymore, and will be getting rid of my VH soon, too.
Dad had a GTR Torana with twin strombergs on it, rekons it used to go hard for a little six.
Also been told if you can find a 4 barrel/square manifold to suit the 6 cylinder, the quadrajet (? stock carby off the 308's) is a good little upgrade for them aswell.
Alrighty, end of day one and already ran into a very irritating problem. One of the bolts goin into the gearbox will NOT budge! We wasted a good hour and a half on it before it got too dark. Tommorow im getting the grinder onto the firewall to get at the bolt better because i've had it. But i did finish welding up a bullbar for running down trees so it wasn't a complete waste. With the carbies, i'm looking for one to bolt straight up to the standard manifold, i'm not spending much money on this car.
Try letting the gearbox hang down at the back so you can get to the bellhousing bolts with a socket and long extension. There is not much to be gained from bolting another carby up to the stock red motor manifold. Try to get a 186s manifold and carby. This is the two barrel stromberg carby that was used on 253 engines. They show up on ebay for around $100. Another option is to use X2 twin stromberg carbies. They were used on the high performance 179 red motors. They are two single barrel strombergs mounted on a manifold made by holden. Dont forget to change the bush in the rear of the crankshaft. Auto and manual are different. To get the bush out you need to find a bolt that is a neat fit in the hole then fill the hole with grease and hit the bolt in so the grease forces the bush out. You will need to fill with grease a few times.
For a paddock basher just leave the red engine as it is and just chuck it in with the blue sump and pick up, remove the flywheel and put on the flexplate and away you go dont worry about the spigot bush in the end of the crank pretty sure autos dont use it anyway?, all will bolt up the same as the blue. to get the bellhousing bolts you lie under the car and get four long extensions from a standard 1/2 inch drive socket kit (think their 12" long from memory) and they reach the bolts from the back with plenty of room to move you ratchet or breaker bar.
Yeah i dont have four extension bars. And the problem isnt getting to the bolt, it's undoing it. I can not move it no matter what i try.
How are you trying to undo it? Its a matter of getting to right leverage.
If you cant loosen the bolt try smacking the end of it with a hammer to jar it loose. You might need to use a steel bar as a punch and hit it this way. Autos do use a spigot bush to centre the torque converter. There is a bit that sticks out of the centre of the torque converter and fits into the spigot bush to keep it lined up so you dont get any vibrations when you rev it out.
Just tried to put the transmission on the red 202, and it doesn't fit. The bellhousing is too big. Any ideas?
too big? in what way? length - too deep for the convertor, or too round to fit the bolts?
I thought they were the same stud pattern? :/
Get the grinder out!![]()
not to sure if anyone mentioned it, but going from a manual car to an auto, whether or not the spiggot bush in the back of the crankshaft needs removing (or one put in) as this is something i was told about when i was rebuilding an old 202 motor for my vh a long time ago, unfortunately i never made it far enough to investigate this