From my last thread about swappinga blue 202 to a red, I've got the motor in and running but it wont move. Shifter is hooked up. Note that some douchebag lost most of the cooler lines so we looped it straight back into itself and blocked off the thingos on the radiator. However i think its missing that metal vaccum hose from the valve on it to somewhere ( anyone know?). Could this be the problem? Yes it has fluid.
without that vacuum line connected youll be struggling to get out of first before it reaches 6000rpm as it will think you have ya foot to the metal.
as for no drive, have you got the linkages set up correctly? torque convertor bolted to flex plate? ive seen that happen before, people forgetting to bolt the convertor to flex plate and wonder why it wont move. ive nearly done it myself once.
is the fuild at the right level? (within the rang on the dipstick whiles its running) if its low it proberly wont move.
with out the cooler its not going to last very long
So with no vacuum hose it wont move at all? a 202 wont do 6000rpm lol.
it will still move just not want to change out of first with out vacum
Well at least the engine side of things is working, one down one to go i suppose. Everything has been bolted up and before the engine swap the trans was working fine. It has not seen any dirt or water. Shifter is fine. Really doing my head in.
Bump. Any idea as to why it's not moving?
If the shifter and converter is bolted up fine an idea, i had a mate who installed a trimatic after it had sat around for a while, he put the rear up on stands and left the car idling in gear for some time and after a while it started to turn the wheels.
Can you feel it drop into gear or is there nothing at all?
VR38, it does not drop revvs or clunk or anything when i put it in gear. When we took it out it lost some fluid but i topped it up and the dipstick says full so... How long did your mate make his car idle for before it caught gear?
did you put the torque convertor right into the box and turn it till all the splines clicked in and it wouldnt go in any further or have the TC bolted to the engine and join the 2 together if you had it on the engine its most likely pushed the pump out the front of the box
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
Feeling like an idiot right now. Checked the dipstick 2 weeks ago after the new motor was put it, full. Checked it today, very very low. Sure enough, top it up and away it went. But it does not go up hills, and must be babied when you first get it moving and sometimes it jumps out of gear. Bearing in mind it has some fluid, but not heaps could this be the problem?
I can't believe you are even asking.
well if it is below the ADD mark on your dipstick then theres your problem.
Tutorial for ya on how to check trans level, you dont seem to know how to.
1. Start engine, run through the gears one by one with foot on brake engine idling.
2. While enigne idling, pull dipstick out wipe clean, trans diptick that is.
3. reinsert dipstick fully then pull out again and check level.
4. if level not up to Full, then add more transfluid until such time it is on full, you can leave engine running while doing this.
5. test drive and youll find it is all ok if you have vacuum line connected and everything else connected ok.
probably should get those 2 lines hooked up to the transcooler in the radiator.
if the lines have been lost, a trip to the wreckers where you could get em for $10 eac is gonna prolong the life of the gearbox
Did that, came back full. Still slips and doesnt want to select gears every now and again. Wouldn't worry about it because it still drives, fast enough for the state of it. I have another gearbox sitting in the shed. And the motor is already starting to knock so i doubt it will last long enough for the gearbox to die. Anyway, problem solved thanks. By the way, it will ALWAYS jump out of gear on a sharp turn left or right, wtf?