1984 Vh not started in years

[metalfossil]

Great Forum Thanks.

I've got a 4.2 litre SLX VH in my garage that hadn't been started in 7 years. I've a few questions that I wonder if you good people can help me with?

The tyres were completely flat. All pumped up now, but are they safe to drive? It started after three or four attempts and I've had it running for a few hours.... What sort of problems should I be looking for?

What sort of petrol should I fill it with?

Am I allowed to drive it (unregistered) to a garage for a roadworthy?

Thanks in advance

[VR028]

i would probably change the engine oil before driving it unless the garage is very close and get the mech to do it for u while he's roadworthying it. the tyres should be fine if they've got tread, just check they arent leaking. fill it with whatever petrol u want. and im pretty sure vic roads can offer a tempory cover note or something to drive an unregistered car for the purpose of getting a rwc

[ari666]

yeah head on down to vic roads and get yourself a 30 day registration. its about 50 bucks (from memory, maybe more) and you can drive it to and from places of repair during business hours.

i would always use premium fuel 98. the tyres will be fine for short trips, but the firewalls could be cracked so i wouldnt be putting it through any fast corners. as mentioned, the oil will probably be full of water by now, so a quick change and new filter couldnt hurt.

also before you go driving in it, THROUGHLY check your fuel hoses for seepage. if there are cracks in the braid and fuel sprays out in a mist, it can catch fire. so if there is any wetness on the fuel hoses, fix it. i guess the same could be said for the cooling system also, so yeah, check all the rubber hoses.

really nice to see a VH come back to life. what are your plans? are you able to create a new thread in the "my rides" section?

[GetToDaChopa]

I would have thought it's better to buy standard fuel and get some lead additive.

[ari666]

I would have thought it's better to buy standard fuel and get some lead additive.

here we go

[metalfossil]

yeah head on down to vic roads and get yourself a 30 day registration. its about 50 bucks (from memory, maybe more) and you can drive it to and from places of repair during business hours.

i would always use premium fuel 98. the tyres will be fine for short trips, but the firewalls could be cracked so i wouldnt be putting it through any fast corners. as mentioned, the oil will probably be full of water by now, so a quick change and new filter couldnt hurt.

also before you go driving in it, THROUGHLY check your fuel hoses for seepage. if there are cracks in the braid and fuel sprays out in a mist, it can catch fire. so if there is any wetness on the fuel hoses, fix it. i guess the same could be said for the cooling system also, so yeah, check all the rubber hoses.

really nice to see a VH come back to life. what are your plans? are you able to create a new thread in the "my rides" section?

Thanks for all the advice guys. Thanks ari666. I ran it for about two hours and couldn't find any leaks. I guess if they're there they'll show under load though...

I've had diiffering advice on the tyres. They were only six months old before the car was placed in the garage. They were however completely flat and I think that has changed their shape...

My wife has really wanted me to get rid of her. She was really surprised that it fired up so quickly though. I would really like to do her up (the car not the wife), but I'm a bit rusty in that field. For instance, I've just noticed that one of the retaining bolts to macpherson strut suspension arm has snapped off. Not sure if that's a job I'd be able to do myself...?

It will definetely not be going for scrap though.

Thanks again

[DerekP]

Excellent, great to see another classic VH back on the raod, well almost. I would be betting that the cooling system has probably turned to brown sludge and will need some close attention (coming from a bloke who has had no end of cooling issues with his VH.............).

[ari666]

I've just noticed that one of the retaining bolts to macpherson strut suspension arm has snapped off. Not sure if that's a job I'd be able to do myself...?

hmmm would depend on which bolt you are referring to. although this is off a different car, its very similar to my VK, so i assume VH.


which bolt is broken?

[metalfossil]

hmmm would depend on which bolt you are referring to. although this is off a different car, its very similar to my VK, so i assume VH.


which bolt is broken?

You're a legend. Thanks for the diagram. It's actually the bolt at the top left diagram. The one with the word cover pointing to it. Does that strut mounting insulator come as a seperate part on the VH? I think it's time to purchase a manual.

[VK SL 3800]

Its just a strut tower bolt, probably have to replace the hole plate they are the same from VB-VP so theres plenty around at the wreckers. Not a difficult job but you need spring compressors and a rattle gun makes life easy.

[ari666]

yeah they are a press in bolt i believe, so you out of luck.. but on the plus side (as vk sl 202 mentioned) they are plentyful. i believe all models are the same, V8, efi and 202 so plenty to choose from. but yeah i wouldnt really try it without spring compressors. you undo that middle bolt on the top of the strut without it being secured and your likely to lose half your face... they tend to come off with some force.

12.50 on ebay plus postage COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR 2PC AMPRO QUALITY BARGAIN! - eBay Coil Springs, Suspension, Steering, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 08-Aug-10 20:33:17 AEST)

[metalfossil]

Excellent, great to see another classic VH back on the raod, well almost. I would be betting that the cooling system has probably turned to brown sludge and will need some close attention (coming from a bloke who has had no end of cooling issues with his VH.............).

Hopefully I'll be able to get it back on the road. Surprisingly after seven years of not being started it runs surprisingly smooth. Did you restore yours or are you just having problems?

[metalfossil]

Its just a strut tower bolt, probably have to replace the hole plate they are the same from VB-VP so theres plenty around at the wreckers. Not a difficult job but you need spring compressors and a rattle gun makes life easy.

Brooklyn wreckers is close, so I'll be having a look. Thanks.

[VK SL 3800]

When you remove old one take note of where the old plate is- the little cap in the center will be closer to one side then the others, there are three different positions possible as the plate bolts are eccentric to allow for Castor adjustment.

[metalfossil]

Excellent, great to see another classic VH back on the raod, well almost. I would be betting that the cooling system has probably turned to brown sludge and will need some close attention (coming from a bloke who has had no end of cooling issues with his VH.............).

Yep, It is leaking brown water into the front passenger side; not much but...I'm guessing from the heater? Probably rusted out?

[GetToDaChopa]

Yep, It is leaking brown water into the front passenger side; not much but...I'm guessing from the heater? Probably rusted out?

Hey mine does the same, but only after it rains. I thought there must be a leak somewhere.

[metalfossil]

She scrubs up ok...but lots of work to do.

[Stretchomatic]

good on ya for hanging onto it. too many have gone to wreckers and hoons, nice to see one thats been stored away.

[ari666]

oh damn, thats nice!!!!

also, the brown water may be (if your lucky) one of the heater hoses that go into the firewall. i think generally when heater cores leak in these they go into the cabin, and all over the passenger floor. cos' the core is in a plastic box behind the glove compartment.

it cant hurt to replace all your hose clamps, they are about 2.50 to 5 dollars each from bunnings and well worth it. dont go cheap though cos' your better off with rusty originals, nipping up the originals may fix it, but i am a believer in new stuff.

[DerekP]

Hopefully I'll be able to get it back on the road. Surprisingly after seven years of not being started it runs surprisingly smooth. Did you restore yours or are you just having problems?

No mine is an original low k one owner job I bought a few years back - a weekend cruiser with a few low key mods planned... But I think these cars came standard with cooling issues, especially auto's with A/C. I have spent $$ on it - new 3 line rad, large electric fan etc etc - still not convinced that it has done the trick waiting for the next hot day to test it out........ got any pics of yours? (I love the VH's!)

[metalfossil]

No mine is an original low k one owner job I bought a few years back - a weekend cruiser with a few low key mods planned... But I think these cars came standard with cooling issues, especially auto's with A/C. I have spent $$ on it - new 3 line rad, large electric fan etc etc - still not convinced that it has done the trick waiting for the next hot day to test it out........ got any pics of yours? (I love the VH's!)

Mmmm, I never had any problems with mine overheating with the a/c on. Is yours an eight or a six? Would you believe I even owned a Starfire VH 4 cylinder with a/c? That never overheated either. I posted a couple of pics in a previous post.

[DerekP]

LOL I didn't think that A/C was an option on a starfire!! Mine is a 308, pretty much stock, and I also used to own a VH SL/X 253 auto years ago and had cooling issues with that too, I must be one of the unlucky ones!!

By the way that brown water leaking on your passenger side is undoubtedly your heater core, if you are lucky it could be a rotten hose as ari666 said but usually it's a burst heater core - an absolute bitch to replace I'm sorry to say.

Also, VH's have a tenedency to leak from around the windscreen when it rains, best way to fix that is to take your screen out and re-seal it.

Edit: BTW I like the pics, classic original - keep it that way!!

[hiy_po]

If you still need to repair that broken stud, I would suggest you get an adjustable top from K-Mac suspension parts. The standard ones only allow 3 positions to adjust camber and caster, The k-mac allow you to do a much more accurate wheel alignment. HERE They are not cheap but will save on Tyre wear and if you ever want to lower the car, the correct adjustments can be made to compensate. They are also made from a longer lasting neoprene that will prolly last longer than the car where as the rubber in the originals is well past its use by date. One new stud could fix your problem but fitting these will pay off for you in the long term

[ari666]

^^^ please dont do that. keep it original.

[Cane_It]

^^^^^^
I hear Noltec make a better adjustable strut top