The big 3.. Using jumper cables.

[seq4x4]

Hey guys i have a question regarding the big 3 and jumper cables.

After my batt to starter motor wire frayed to much and became useless i found some old jumper cables.

So i replaced the wire with that. Works great on start up, however when driving for an hour then turning the car off for 5mins then trying to start again, its like the battery is flat. I figure it to have a short somewhere or something, but turning the sound system off helps abit. Thats one of the recent problems.

The real question i have is if i can replace my grounds and alt wire with the same jumper cable. Ill prob be asked if its a thicker gauge wire, to be honest i have no idea as my car is in the shop atm. But aiming to get it back tomorrow and was planing to rewire the sound system because im not happy with all the cut and taped wires.

Has anyone done this before or should i go out and buy some 4/2/0 gauge wiring?

Cheers in advance.

[soop]

Firstly check to make sure all the connections are tight.
Then check to make sure the Alternator is in good nick (check the voltage in the system at idle, It shouldn't be less the 14volts. If it is substantially less your alternator isn't doing its job).

Personally I would buy some new wire to run to the starter (Do the earth while you're at it too).
I think Zero gauge will be a little over kill, but two gauge should be alright. Might even be a little big as well. Take a battery clamp with you when you go to get it. Nothing worse then trying to jam massive wire into the battery clamp.

[acarmody]

Welders cable is about 1/4 of the cost of car audio cable, and is essentially the same stuff, a bit less bendy but thats about it.

[soop]

Welder cable is probably better for the job. Almost guaranteed to be more robust.

[seq4x4]

Cheers for the info guys, ill do it that way. I know my volts is less then 14 on idle, sometimes when idling it would drop to 12, back to 13 over and over, tap the accelerator and it stays on 13. When the sound system is on, itll drop to 11 as the sub thumps, then back to 13.

[soop]

I would go and get a an alternator of a V6 Commodore.
IIRC they're an 85amp alternator. I don't know what the VK is, but its not that.

[seq4x4]

So a Ecotec alternator? Good thing im wrecking a VS, will Have to do that tomorrow.

[soop]

Yeah, it should work.

Do that and replace your dodgy starter strap and you'll be apples.

[seq4x4]

Cheers mate. I knew i would find something usefull on that VS to help me out still.

[soop]

Haha, Is the starter strap no good to you?

Should be about the right length too.

[seq4x4]

Didnt even think to get the strap from there aye. Id be pissed if that starter fits the 202 aswell. I ended up paying $240 for a new one..

[soop]

Hahaha, nahh it wont fit the 202.
202 starter is a monster in comparison.

[seq4x4]

The old ones, the new ones are those bosh ones. Its about half the size.

Just realized they are the same size, just different mounts.

[torch]

The quality of jumper cables is typically no where near the leads that are supplied with the car or what you can buy as replacement battery leads. One factor is the insulation, for underbonnet use it will be more heat/acid/oil resistant and go the distance without perishing. Also buying the right length leads with the terminations already on them will save a lot of hassle and you can be sure the terminations will be done well.

Alternator, is the pulley from the v6 ecotec and 202 pulley just a straight swap, they are setup for different drive belts, what about the mounting holes for each?
The voltage fluctuation at idle sounds like your regulator/brushes(replacement is about $20-30) is worn, though loose connections are possible.
Depending on your sub, if its high power like 600W, then you are going to be drawing 50A+ on big bass notes. If this is consistently how you use the car(thumping music at idle), then yes you will need more alternator.

[acarmody]

Depending on your sub, if its high power like 600W, then you are going to be drawing 50A+ on big bass notes. If this is consistently how you use the car(thumping music at idle), then yes you will need more alternator.

Not sure where you got this info from. I was running 2000wrms on a stock VX 100 amp alternator. Another member here was running 5000wrms on a stock VS alternator, 80 amp I believe.

[torch]

Not sure where you got this info from. I was running 2000wrms on a stock VX 100 amp alternator. Another member here was running 5000wrms on a stock VS alternator, 80 amp I believe.

If you do the maths 600W at 12-14V = ~50A, that would be with the sub cranking. At idle the standard vk alternator isnt going to putting out anywhere near that and there is the rest of the electrical load of the vehicle to count for as well, which means eventually/quickly the battery would drain down, hence my reccommendation to get a higher output alternator if that is how the system is predominatly used. Most people dont use their system like this and dont need to upgrade the alternator.

I was running 2000wrms on a stock VX 100 amp alternator. Another member here was running 5000wrms on a stock VS alternator, 80 amp I believe.

likewise if you do the maths on your systems, then your sub would have been drawing ~150A at full output, well beyond what your alternator is rated at, and a truck load more than what it would put out at idle ~40A. You obviously werent using the system on full power for hours at a time(thank goodness for that) otherwise you would have experienced flat batteries often.

[acarmody]

Well generally when I got my sound system going I am driving, usually down the highway, so full 100 amps being produced. I'm not one of those car-park warriors.

What you have to remember is that the subs which are generally the majority of the power draws are only about 'on' about 20% of the time. Unless you have a song that is just massive amounts of rolling bass, it will only be playing a lot of short bursts. So in reality a 2000wrms system might only be pulling ~50 amps continuous.

[torch]

What you have to remember is that the subs which are generally the majority of the power draws are only about 'on' about 20% of the time. Unless you have a song that is just massive amounts of rolling bass, it will only be playing a lot of short bursts. .

I have to remember?, did I forget? Im well aware of the power demands of all types of music, and there are some types that put a high constant drain through the subby.

As for your sound system drawing a constant 100A for hours at a time, how do you manage that without flattening the battery if all your alternator output is only matching what the sound system is using, what's powering the rest of the electrics?

[soop]

You might want to rethink your attitude.

[Cameron P]

sorry to invade this thread but i just bought twin OA 12inch subs and they have something like 2400rms... is it bad that my dash headlights and tail lights dim a little when the subs kick??

its noticeable on a dark quiet road at night?!?!?!?!

[torch]

sorry to invade this thread but i just bought twin OA 12inch subs and they have something like 2400rms... is it bad that my dash headlights and tail lights dim a little when the subs kick??

its noticeable on a dark quiet road at night?!?!?!?!

If they are the only effects then Id leave it alone, its just indicating that the voltage is dropping from the normal 14V you have when the engine is running, possibly down to 12-13V level, which the rest of the electrics will still work fine at.

[Cameron P]

yeah my car doesnt die or anything.. but i still might get a better battery if not a capacitor but until then i wanted to make sure it is ok

it only dims a little bit.. its quiet funny actually.

cheers mate

[torch]

I dont think a bigger battery would solve the prob, however, one check you can do to establish the truth of the matter is to monitor the voltage at the battery with a multimeter when the music is thumping and the engine running at your normal highway rpm.

If the voltage drops below 12.7V, then a bigger battery would help but not totally eliminate the effect, if it stays above that then its really the alternator that isnt capable of maintaining its output on the peaks and/or the alternator regulator is a little slow to respond.
You are most likely still going to notice dimming when the voltage varies by a volt or so.

It may be also a case of where you sound system is getting its power, do you have a lead going direct to the battery(desired) to power your amps, or is it getting its power from near where the headlight relays get theirs which could also create the dimming?

[l1ck3r]

sorry to jump in.. can u upgrade an altenator to a higher amp jus by changing the brushes/regulator?? or is it an internal mod?

[soop]

You could just get a better alternator of a newer commodore. thats common practice.