vh 202 auto not coming outa 1st gear
hey guys
took my car for a spin up the road and it seem to be stuck in 1st when in drive and it also only stays in D when selecting gear Could it have to do with the vacuum of the trans at the moment i havnt got the vac line hooked up i gotta work out where it connects to? i also check the oil and its fine evan when hot.... any ideas?
Check the VAC line from the carby to the back of the box on the drivers side.
do u mean the metal hose that come from my trans....i dont know where it goes its just sitting there? dose it run the the side of the carbyOriginally Posted by seq4x4
Give me a few mines, ll get some pictures.
My curly wurry hose is what connects the manifold to the line. Then the second pic (didnt wanna get under the car) Is the vac line going to the solenoid at the back.
[QUOTE=seq4x4;1762496]My curly wurry hose is what connects the manifold to the line. Then the second pic (didnt wanna get under the car) Is the vac line going to the solenoid at the back.
so could this be why its not chnaging gear in D
This is the exact reason, when changing my head last night i forgot to put the vac line on, was cruising around in first for a long time thinking the head was stuffed. This was my exact problem. Stuck in first.
:):):)
It never ends aye. haha.
Will it shift if u do it manually?
Heres a pik of the box vacuum line If it helps..
Can't find where it goes to on the motor tho
nah it dosnt it like 1st and Low have vanashed but im hoping it work out tommorro when i put that hose on
Goes to the manifold/carby, since its a vacuum line.
It just goes to any manifold vacuum source, the trans thinks your giving it a boot full as there is no vacuum to the modulator, exactly the same conditions as when you are giving it full throttle -there wont be any manifold vacuum while you do that. You 'might' be albe to trick it it into the next gear by manual shifting from 1 to 2 at higher revs but probably not from 2-3.
and also done anyone know what the thing called that stick out the top of the thermo stat housing and it has rubber lines running from it to the carb and also theres ones next to the carb that screw into the head they have letters marked on it A' B' ect.. iv gotta order new ones in
they are Thermal vacuum switches, in other words they let the vacuum through or not once at a certain temperature. the one on the thermos housing lets the dizzy signal vacuum through from the carby once the engine is warm (its pretty cool when it opens <50 degrees cel) then it also has a constant manifold vacuum port that opens at about 110 degrees cel or around there when the car is running hot to try and help cool it down by (advancing?) i think the timing a little, it does this by suppling the manifold vacuum through to the dizzy at all times instead of the ported vacuum it normal gets from the carby.(ive had a mental blank on which way you adjust the timing to help cool the engine), the other TVS on a blue motor im pretty sure at the front of the head is just a switch that triggers the exhaust flap, it allows manifold vacuum through until the engine is warm then closes. And the exhaust flap is closed by vacuum so it then opens, allowing the exhaust to flow freely. Its just an emissions thing to help it warm up quicker.
There should also be a TVS around the middle of the head, it actuates the EGR valve, and that TVS opens when the engine is warm to normal operating temperature. It allows ported vacuum from the carby to open the EGR valve allowing lovely exhaust gas back into the engine.
ok my trans is still not changing while trying to drive it in "D" and 1st n L dont work either after doing the vac lines
on holiday
do you have the detent solinoid wire attached
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
yep i evan checked for vac at the vac solinoid on the trans
i have a feeling its the vacume modulator thingy so im gonna go wreckers tomorro but i kinda have a weried feeling that its still not gonna work
on holiday
detent wire is powered via the accelerator pedal if theres to much slack in the throttle cable the detent switch will be to far on at low tps % and wont shift out of first look inside the car on the gas pedal youll find the switch
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
ok it wasnt the detent wire the accelrator has no slack nor is it tight its perfect so im not sure
on holiday
the only other time ive seen this happen is when you leave the torque convertor on the flexplate and lift the trans up onto it instead of fitting it in the trans properly and fitting the 2 together
I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable
when i put this motor in we bolted the trans to the motor then put it in and i believe it went together fine
:):):)
i hear trimatics can be a b!tch to get to join to the convertor..
im pretty sure mine went straight in it was pretty easy all i did was sit my trans on a spare wheel that was laying around then lowered the motor with the block n tackle and put it in place and it went together pretty smoothly
captain halfajob
so you put the torque converter on after you bolted the motor and trans together?
theres ya problem!!! you forgot to put the torque conver in!!! tsk, silly.
hahahaha i dont know if the car woudl run without it its in there bolted to the flywheel
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