VH blue 202 ignition problems

[haynzey]

Hi all,
This is my first time posting here and I hope you can help.

Id been at the shops yesterday, jumped back in the car started her up, took off 5 metres and it stalled. Now it is still not firing. I did a service last week and replaced the plugs, leads, coil, Cap and rotor. so none of these are the issue. I have checked wiring and it all seems to be tight and in the correct place.

I dont know much about the ignition module and my "HAYNES" manual isnt worth the paper isnt printed on. I have noticed both the green and pink wire on the module are reading +12V is this right?

Also I cant get spark out of the coil lead (using a screw in end of lead) but it measures +12V with my meter. now i presume i should get a lot more than 12v out of the top of the coil.

Please help me im completely confused and its so hot underneath the bonnet!!! Any extra wiring diagrams would be helpful too if there detailed. thanks heaps guys

[DerekP]

Are you getting a spark at the plug(s)? Is the rotor turning when you you turn it over? Did it cough and splutter or did it just die - as in dead like when you turn the iginition off?

[haynzey]

No spark at plugs, the rotor is turning and it just died. The more I look at it this morning i think maybe the pick up coil (stator) could be wrong cause everything else seems fine. I tested all the wiring today but i have no info on the pick up.

[seq4x4]

Whats the coils model number?

[haynzey]

IC5 its an echlin ignition oil filled type. Does anybody know anything about the ignition module?

[ari666]

Does anybody know anything about the ignition module?

yeah a bit. but from the sounds of it you might have needed a ballast resistor with that coil, and if you have an ignition module then you shouldnt use a resistor=theres your problem.

you should really get yourself a bosch HEC715 if its an electronic ignition.

having said all that i have NFI what a IC5 echlin is, but a quick google search brought up a 1975 ford... so am guessing its a ballast resistor type

[haynzey]

my coil doesnt have a resistor. I have ordered a new pick up coil for tomorrow this should sort it out. thanks for your help .

[seq4x4]

Thats what he said, you may need one. Their $8 and easy as to install.

[haynzey]

I have tried 4 different coils. including the bosch, none start the thing. the car was running then stopped, wouldnt it have not started at all if i needed the resistor. also i was told by a mechanic you dont need the resistor on electronic ignition.

[seq4x4]

A resistor smoothed my idle right out. Its real smooth after it. Read up on them and youll see why. Next thing, did you say the rotor button was spinning when you were cranking.. Prob a stupid question.. Did you wire them up correctly?

[seq4x4]

yeah a bit. but from the sounds of it you might have needed a ballast resistor with that coil, and if you have an ignition module then you shouldnt use a resistor=theres your problem.

you should really get yourself a bosch HEC715 if its an electronic ignition.

having said all that i have NFI what a IC5 echlin is, but a quick google search brought up a 1975 ford... so am guessing its a ballast resistor type

Super shit auto refereed me to this one. Never seen it on a 202 before so i just grabbed the other type which was the Bosch SU12R. Was contemplating grabing the GT40R i think it was, but i dont see why i need such a spark like that.

[ari666]

also i was told by a mechanic you dont need the resistor on electronic ignition.

*sigh* your mechanic is correct, an electronic ignition will not function properley with a balast resistor, nor will a coil that requires a balast fuction without one (it will, for a bit, but it will die) i am saying/asking if the coil you mentioned was a balast type coil, and if so then it wouldnt suit the HEI (electronic ignition) system that you are running. instead you will need a bosch HEC715 or HEC716 (male or female) coil for it to operate.

oh and seq4x4, i wouldnt bother with anything but the HEC series. they are perfect. not too flashy but they are very reliable. you wont need anything special unless you are running dual plug, dual point, or MSD systems.

[seq4x4]

Oh true, ill grab one of those coils for the new engine once its finished being built. But for now this $30 odd one is working fine.

[haynzey]

i still havnt figured it out been to busy to try so i pulled the dizzy and coil from my kinga and chucked it in, got the battery on charge so tomorrow ill know if that works.

[codfishface]

Swapping "known good" for "suspect" is the way to go......but

If you renewed all the components - coil,leads,cap,rotor _ during your service...well, they should be good...to a point.

As your first post states, all was good till your trip to the shops, I would be checking to see whether a lead or component has come loose during your "shake down" run.

Don't over complicate it. It was running after all.

All the electrics in our old girls have seen a lot of service. Pay attention to the 25year old crimp joints and wiring. You may have upset some with your work.

Coils and Dissy's are pretty straight forward devices. Give them volts and mechanical movement and they either work or they don't. Think connectivity. Are the plug ends good? Has heat affected anything? Did that speed bump knock something off?

Fuel-Spark-Compression-Vrooooom.

Keep It Simple.

[haynzey]

thanks mate, thats the best reply i got. As I said in my last post i put the dizzy and coil from the kingswood in there and the next morning it fired fine. little out of time but that was a quick fix. The pickup coil I pulled tested fine so it must be the ignition module. Not to worry the next morning went out to go to work; cars been broken into, windscreen smashed, ignition screwed. So there I was stuck for work again. I cracked the @#!*# and went and bought my mates VN. So im stripping the VH. Ill post a new thred for parts shortly. Cheers guys