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Thread: Opinion on re using these valves.

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    Default Opinion on re using these valves.

    Im planing to just clean the head myself and just getting the shop to give it a flat base as itll be cheaper.

    Im unaware of what the valves are (hardened or what not) But i thought i might remove one, clean it and get 2 pics and get some opinions.

    Iv got the valve lapping paste (with the corse and fine) and bearing blue to check the seal. Ill be doing it by hand with the suction tool as i dont trust myself attaching it to a drill.

    So would you use these again?


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    soop is offline Banned
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    I reused old valves once. Dropped one into the cylinder after about 5000km.

    My fault?
    Probably.

    Could I find a cause?
    Nope.

    I think the shaft was worn, collets didn't hold #### together.

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    Ah true, its got a nice seal aruond the shaft i think its called. Im replacing the collets as there only about $20 and simple to do.
    Im giving everything a good clean and the best job as i can as im about to put a set of rollers in.

    So iv bought: New lifters, new push rods (as the ones im using are from the engine i snapped the rod in), new stem seals, new collets. Im planing to clean the head myself. Get a smooth bottom, the springs are a hell of alot harder then whats on my current head so i guess thats a good thing.

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    ari666's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seq4x4 View Post
    the springs are a hell of alot harder then whats on my current head so i guess thats a good thing.
    only if you like things breaking.

    that valve is toast. nevermind what the seat looks like. see there is a ring around the face? that wont seal properley. they need to be completely flat and shiny. all pitting (little block dots) needs to be surfaced off. lapping is never gonna do it in a million years. if you want any kind of performance/fuel economy you will get the head re-done properley.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Opinion on re using these valves.-valve.jpg  
    Last edited by ari666; 05-03-2011 at 07:37 PM. Reason: added pic

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    soop is offline Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by ari666 View Post
    only if you like things breaking.

    that valve is toast. nevermind what the seat looks like. see there is a ring around the face? that wont seal properley. they need to be completely flat and shiny. all pitting (little block dots) needs to be surfaced off. lapping is never gonna do it in a million years. if you want any kind of performance/fuel economy you will get the head re-done properley.
    ^^^^
    What he said, I can see the valve well enough.

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    So strong springs (their only standard) are bad?

    I guess im next question is, where can i buy some new standard valves for the head?

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    for the cost of rerstripping the motor down, stick a new set of valves and springs in the thing for under $100 its not worth messing with

    scott


    Loads of VB-VK information, All you need to know about EFI 5L Conversions Ultimate EFI 5L Conversion resource "
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    What do you mean? Bottom end is fine. My current head is ####ing oil into the bore. So i have another head i want to put on. I already have: roller rockers, push rods and lifters ready for the hew head, but i want these valves to be good and the base to be flat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seq4x4 View Post
    . I already have: roller rockers, .
    well now were talkin' no point putting rollers on with stock valves. talk to your engine guy about sticking some bigger valves in

    its not just the valve. the valve seat will be as bad or worse than that valve.

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    Those valves will clean up with a light grind.

    I'd also be checking the guide to valve stem clearance as that valve stem looks a bit worn. Its usually checked with a dial indicator on the valve tip with the valve off the seat by a certain distance.

    I had my heads reco'd with a 3 angle valve grind for $330 including chemical cleaning and facing, my faces were ground not milled. I went a litle further though and had the guides sleeved in bronze which cost an extra $400.

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    So in your opinions, i should go bigger valves, not just standard replacments?

    Im sort of on a budget. In the past 2 weeks iv managed to snap a rod and have an accident. So after all that i havnt got a dollar left.

    Im whilling to just buy standard valves and do most of the work myself, but doing oversize i doubt i can do myself.

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    Depends on what you want. Performance or just a rebuild.

    Oversized valve job is going to cost you.

    Take the valves to an engine reconditioning place and ask what they think.

    Personally i would just have them re-ground aswell as the seats which usually is what head reco is.

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    Well i wouldnt mind performance. But im not that rich. I mean if the bottom end had some work to it and the carby didnt need a retune then yea.
    But i guess standard replacments might have to do. I mean its a 202 i cant expect much power gain from chucking roller rockers on and bigger valves.
    I only grabbed the rollers cause they were cheap.

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    yeah soz, i go a bit overboard sometimes. i think from memory each valve was $2.50 to regrind. cant remember how much the seats were.

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    So i should just drop the head into the shop and get: Clean, flat bottome and the valves regrinded? Valve regrinding means the surface on the head where the valve sits on?
    If so i found a store that sells new valves from $12 each, but lists all different sizes so ill have to find out the stock sizes so i can order some.

    I got a quote awhile ago from a head shop. Theres only 2 round me, and both said the same price. To clean, give a flat bottom, crack test, and replace valves would set me back around $600.
    So if i could get away with buying my own new valves, lapping those and just getting the head clean, crack test, flat bottom and the valve bit on the head done, i should be right?

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    if you want to use the head that valve is off you are going to have to bite the bullet and get a changeover head. there are other things which need to be done at the same time too. this list goes: acid dipped, jet cleaned, crack tested, decked, new valves seats cut out and installed, 3 angle seats cut and the install height for your new springs checked, valves refaced, new k-lines, collets, retainers etc. and a complete changeover head will turn out cheaper than you buying your own stuff to go in it cos' the builder will be able to get everything cheaper than you can.

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    Itll be hard to get a change over head, due to the fact iv only got 2 head shops here and neither commonly deal with 202 heads.

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    Im trying to do it cheap.

    Iv got a price for reco. If i can get a price on an exchange i might be better off.
    At the end of the day, im getting the same priduct, its the price that will be different, which is what counts.

    i think iv spent a grand this week on parts, for the repair of the front end plus the new parts for the engine. So im running abit tight atm.

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    If you know what you are doing and have the tools it works out cheaper and I know sometimes you we do a better job than some mechanic shops, I have worked in an engine shop but believe me $100 saved now can cost you alot more down the track.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VR38 View Post
    $100 saved now can cost you alot more down the track.
    that is one of the best pieces of advice anyone can give IMO.

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    my last 202 head was $615NZ to supply new valves and seats full rebuild ready to bolt on
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    so thats like: 12.50 AUD and a box of tui... right?

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