water keeps getting in with the oil

[TY318]

just recently iv noticed my 202 keeps getting water in the oil the head gasket has been replaced was because i broke a bolt on the head an the was also water in the oil im not sure what i should do when i replaced the gasket i did sand the block and head down!

[DJ-Bolan]

the surfaces might not be completely flat, little gap from head to gasket to block.

run the car for 5 mins and check under the oil cap lid. see if there is any water present there, if not take it for a drive. come back and check again. if there is, bleed the whole system of oil. and refill with oil and check again. otherwise you're going to have to machine the head and block completely DEAD flat. try using a bigger cork gasket (if you are...) this is prevent having to do again.

-D

[TY318]

ahh ok atm im using what bursons rekon is there top of the line gaskets should i replace it with a cork gasket

[DJ-Bolan]

well the real question is, when you re-assembled the head, did you over tighted the bolts or did you check the manual and use a torque wrench or just do it by hand? did you add a sealer between the gasket and head to make them stick together? i've used cork gaskets and they seem to work very well. as long as you:

- Head the head and block completely clean and use degreaser to wipe away excess grease/oil, from the block/head. make sure you put the gasket on with a proper gasket sealer, place the gasket on straight, and correspond the manual with a torque wrench in the right sequence to get a perfect seal.

check the net and find a good head gasket for your car, or reuse the one you have.

-D

[machone]

it could be a few things mate even though you sanded the surface it could be a hairline crack in the head...but you said you broke a bolt originally it could be a case your bolts are stretched which is common your bolts are now a little bit longer than original so when torquing down the bolts they bottom out before they are fully tightened you should get new bolts for it... also make sure you tighten your bolts in sequence when tightening the bolts down... do it gradually tighten them down at a lower torque setting than it should be then let the head sit for awhile then tighten a bit more then let it sit for a bit again then fully torque them up....run the car for a bit then re torque them....im not sure on a 202 been years since ive worked on one but make sure if any the bolts go into water valleys that they have gasket sealant applied on them btw do not use silicone.

hope you get her fixed

[TY318]

well the real question is, when you re-assembled the head, did you over tighted the bolts or did you check the manual and use a torque wrench or just do it by hand? did you add a sealer between the gasket and head to make them stick together? i've used cork gaskets and they seem to work very well. as long as you:

- Head the head and block completely clean and use degreaser to wipe away excess grease/oil, from the block/head. make sure you put the gasket on with a proper gasket sealer, place the gasket on straight, and correspond the manual with a torque wrench in the right sequence to get a perfect seal.

check the net and find a good head gasket for your car, or reuse the one you have.

-D

when i bolted it up i used the torque specs that i got with the gasket thats for that motor when i replaced the other gasket witch was the exact same brand as the one. I got now! i had to sand all the crap off from the old gasket because it was half stuck to the block/head and i think on the packet it said it didnt need the sealer because of what its made from

[DJ-Bolan]

then i'm assuming that when you removed the bolt that snapped, and sanded it, there is a hairline gap there, and thats where the moisture/water is getting in. the only 100% fix is to head the head and block properly removed and machined and put back together with that gasket, or try using a cork gasket WITH sealant. i'd say either first get a thicker cork gasket with sealant, put it back together, see if more moisture is in there. if so, get the head machined flat (might need to get it properly done as everything has to be within 1/100 of a mill pre much.

sorry to hear about this. that's pretty shit situation, just remember, cork gaskets won't last as long as newer gaskets, so just make sure it's on completely perfect from the start and hopefully you won't have to deal with it for another 100,000K's

stop burning rubber too much too haha.

-D

[vkberlina]

when i have done headgaskets before I have used a razor blade to scrape off the old gasket, then use thinner on a rag to wipe off the old glue, oil and other contaminants off the head and block. If the gasket wont come off too easy I use a scouring pad to give it a scrub. Before you pop the head off again try using a bottle of chemiweld in the cooling system.

scott

[Drewie]

Bit confused about some of the answers here, are we talking about a head gasket or a rocker cover gasket?

[L67 Calais]

Me too....... Cork Head Gasket????????????

[ari666]

try using a bigger cork gasket (if you are...) this is prevent having to do again.

-D

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

HOW DID I MISS THIS THREAD?!?!?

(caps)

[TY318]

found the issue cylinder 3 has a leaking valve and also the head needs to be machined

[VK SL 3800]

leaking valves dont have anything to do with coolant, was the head gasket blown?

[TY318]

nah the head gasket was fine but it defiantly needs to be machined

[VK SL 3800]

Put a straight edge on the block while you have the head off.

[TY318]

yeh i did throu the middle of the head u can see light through it

[TY318]

Put a straight edge on the block while you have the head off.

oh wait sorry i thort u ment on the head lol ill av to do that tomorro