shitty brakes

[Jonno]

Hey guys
First off only ever driven my vk so dunno if it's normal..
But my brakes are reall soft and don't grip well but then if u push too hard they just lock up n it skids and feels really unsafe cos it takes forever to slow the car down, (so I have Been driving slower and braking earlier..)
But still they couldn't have been like this Standard
It's either too soft or locks up I am more used to my dads 4wd brakes and the brakes on my go-karts but these just scare the crap outa me to dive

Soo basically the question is.. Is this normal in the vk?? And what are some good pads/disks I should upgrade to?
Not really interested in conversions cos it looks like affair bit of work


Also had new disks/pads for a roady in December 09 but it was driven like 4 times between then and me getting my license...


Thanks in advance

[low vs]

id get that checked asap

[vkberlina]

Standard VK brakes were pretty crap, spongy etc,

What pads did you fit?
if your locking up what rubber have you got?

Best brake upgrade is
VE caliper & rotor upgrade kit forum member sells wont be long and he will post here.
Rear discs off a VB-VS

scott

[VK SL 3800]

They should be better then that, even with the drums on the back my vk pulled up pretty well, wasnt sensational but it didnt feel unsafe or nothing then lockup. check your caliper slides aren't seized up, change the brake fluid. Bleed it slowly to get all the air out. Is the booster working, does the idle change if you hold your foot on the brake.

[Jonno]

Um dunno what ever the rwc pace put in

Is a conversion hard? I'll go search thru pages soon
Would I have to change things like master cyl n shit?

[Jonno]

Nah idle doesnt change man!

[Sabbath']

Change the brakefluid. If it hasnt been done since atleast 09 then it's getting near due for a change.


To check your booster's working, pump the pedal 3-4 times then start the car. You should feel the pedal sink.

[Jonno]

All right sab thanks I'll get dad to call hr guy that did out toner brakes to giv em a clean n shiiit (:

[Darren_L]

the standard brakes on a VB-VL weren't so bad for a standard car, and normal driving conditions.
I wouldn't bother with VT/VE upgrades unless you plan on driving the car hard.
If you really want an upgrade, a set of VN-VP V8 front rotors and calipers is a good upgrade and is a very easy job (need minimum 15 inch wheels)

As mentioned already, first thing is to flush the old brake fluid out and bleed the system. Brake fluid only has a useful life of about 12 months. After that it absorbs too much moisture and starts breaking down.
Brake pad compound can also have a big influence on brakes. Don't buy cheap shit brake pads. Use a reputable brand like Bendix or Ferrodo. If you have drum brakes on the rear, then pull the drums off and clean all the brake dust out (keep in mind it may be asbestos so use the appropriate breathing protection and/or wash the brakes with water). Make sure the wheel cylinders aren't leaking (pull back the rubber caps and check for fluid leaks). Then adjust up the rear shoes correctly.

If you have done all of this, and the brakes are still bad, there's a good chance that there may be a problem in the master cylinder. Also make sure the correct master cylinder has been used - a previous owner may have replaced the master cylinder with the wrong one, not knowing there is a difference (they appear the same from the outside). Disc brake rear uses a different master cylinder to drum brake rear. Drum brake rear master cyliner has a residual valve built into the rear circuit whereas the disc rear hasn't. If you have the wrong master cylinder it can lead to rear brakes dragging or disc rear not applying properly.

[ari666]

vk brakes are not all that bad.

add me to the list of "bleed the brakes" guys.


you wanna see bad brakes? try driving the impala with its 4 wheel drums

[Jonno]

Lol I'd love to do that ari.. I have a feeling you wouldn't let me though

[DerekP]

Old rubber can lock very easily particulary when cold - could be a factor.

[Jonno]

New eagle avs tyres

[commy vk]

Gee i wouldn't want you to be behind me and have to brake hard,the best thing you can do for yourself and others like myself on the road is to have your car towed (don't drive it) to a reputable brake specialist.Brakes are the most important thing on a car and they should never be overlooked.When your car is in for a service ask for an upgrade to slotted DBAs which I can thoroughly recommend.

[Darren_L]

vk brakes are not all that bad.

you wanna see bad brakes? try driving the impala with its 4 wheel drums

I hired the girlfriend a 65 Mustang for her birthday last year, great looking car but she took it for a just a bit of a spirited drive through the Gold Coast Hinterland, and we literally ran out of brakes. Had the trans in first gear, foot all the way on the brake and it wouldn't stop down the range. Had to wait until we found a bit of an uphill and run it off the side of the road. Scared the crap out of both her and me lol - got to love 4 wheel drums on yank tanks!

[the_boozer]

sorry to hijack your thread as my issue is very similar , My oldman has put disks on the back of his vk and after lots of bleeding the pedal feels ok then as soon as the engine is started the pedal gets very sponge again the oldman is telling me the master cyclinder came from a disk brake commodore (don't know if it did or didn't) as the pedal is sponge the brakes are very touchie this is noticed when moving the dunger around the yard so he cant be driving it around.

Is there a thread around here that will help me identify weather or not it has the correct master cylinder on it or anyone have any ideas on what we have done wrong?

[gslrallysport]

Best brake upgrade is
VE caliper & rotor upgrade kit forum member sells wont be long and he will post here.

Yep, see here:
VE Twin Piston Upgrade Package suit VB-VZ Commodore!!!

[Jonno]

As I said I am willing to spend money because braking and handling is very important to me

But as I'm still a student that might be a little to expensive for me at the moment,

I think I will just get new pads disks and get the calipers rebuilt, so what

Pads and disks are the best for me to buy ?

[VLC86]

As mentioned, get a quality set of pads as it can make a big difference. (ferodo or bendix) there are a few threads on god value for money brake pads so search around)

As for the rotors I wouldn't spend the extra just for slotted rotors, they are designed to enhance cooling efficiency so if you are working the brakes harder for a longer time they will remain just as effective. Seeing as its only a daily VK this shouldn't be an issue (correct me if I am wrong, I did do a little bit of research)

But make sure you bleed them properly if you do do it yourself


Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

[Jonno]

resolved
brakes are getting overhauled on friday by the guy that did the ute
thanks for all your help guys

/thread

[180sc]

hey Idea for upgrade if your rebuilding calipers. go to wreckers by some vr vs calipers then rebuild them by vn/vq slotted front rotors and pads and fit them will stop awesome in comparison.

[Jonno]

yeah i didnt think it was worth it... if i want them better after the rebuild i might upgrade

[vkberlina]

get a rpice on the upgrade and get a prive on the overhaul, I doubt there would be much difference, esp if your buying rotors on the overhaul.

Scott

[machone]

4 wheel disc brakes love em

[vh-holden]

sorry to hijack your thread as my issue is very similar , My oldman has put disks on the back of his vk and after lots of bleeding the pedal feels ok then as soon as the engine is started the pedal gets very sponge again the oldman is telling me the master cyclinder came from a disk brake commodore (don't know if it did or didn't) as the pedal is sponge the brakes are very touchie this is noticed when moving the dunger around the yard so he cant be driving it around.

Is there a thread around here that will help me identify weather or not it has the correct master cylinder on it or anyone have any ideas on what we have done wrong?

I've got the same problem with my vk. I have put a booster from a vr on it and a new master cylinder. There is pressure when the car is off, but as soon as the engine is running and the booster has vacuum it goes spongy. It stops the car (in the driveway tests anyway) but has no feel.