vh brake conversion

[mr j-man]

which of the later model 1990-2000 commodores brake booster and mcylider are a direct conversion to a v8 vh with discs all rounds?

[benny999]

I used a vs plastic booster and master reservoir with a vt master and line adaptors or use the vt line screws and get ur lines re flared and with the little bolt on the booster take it out cut the head off it and cut a line on the top for a flat blade screw driver and screw it in till it's flush

[benny999]

Make sure it's flush can't stress this because it will lock you front breaks on you might have to cut the screw down a bit and also use the master bracket off the vs will work good


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-37.648961,145.535034

[benny999]

Also make sure the master has 3 lines


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-37.648958,145.535107

[VK SL 3800]

I have the same as above, VS plastic booster and a VT/ VX master, you can either modify the booster pushrod slightly or purchase a little spacer. either way is easy. Then as said you need to buy the adapters for the brake lines because the VH uses a different flare on the end of the brake line which will not seal against the VT/VX master. Adapters are cheap and re flaring can be a pain if you dont have the tools and have to take the line out to get done.

[mr j-man]

so are the above mention components are they off of v8 vs and vt's??

[VK SL 3800]

V6 VS booster (have a feeling a v8 one is the same though) , either v8 or v6 VT/VX master both the same.

[mr j-man]

V6 VS booster (have a feeling a v8 one is the same though) , either v8 or v6 VT/VX master both the same.

cheers man thanks for the info

[Lewie]

FYI

VH Brake Upgrade

[Sabbath']

Just FYI aswell

I've got a brake upgrade kit that will upgrade the rotors,calipers and braided brake lines. It operates off a hub-in-rotor design, so you dont need to add adapter plates. Just put wheel bearings in like your old setup and away you go. Original mounting, no aftermarket brackets bolted in.

PBR Brake Upgrade VB-VQ (Front)

[mr j-man]

can ya use the vs master cylinder? if so does it do the job rather than fitting a vt one??

[benny999]

Yeah mate does the job great it's what me and another 2 mate have done


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-37.824327,145.293582

[VK SL 3800]

You should run a VT master as it has a 1 1/4" quick fill bore at the start to take up the initial play between the pad and rotor, basically gives a firm pedal sooner the a VS master.

[vhr32]

VS masters are only 15/16 or something.

I do Nissan 4 spot brake conversion kits for VB-VP Commodores and make front coil over struts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/IMGP4030.jpg

[benny999]

Oop ment to say the vt one


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-37.112969,145.909805

[juiceie vh sle]

ive got a really detailed how to on my computer with heaps of pics ...pm me with ya email and ill send it to ya

[mr j-man]

ive got a really detailed how to on my computer with heaps of pics ...pm me with ya email and ill send it to ya

hey mate i got that email...thanks heaps very helpfull.

[OFF T4P]

You can run a full vt setup including booster. You just need to mod the vh booster bracket to fit onto the vt booster or make your own. Also will need to drill a new hole in the shaft going into the car and chop about 10mm off the end of the shaft. Have a search on google there is a few thread about fitting vt booster to a early commodore. Pretty easy job.

[mr j-man]

ok - i have decided to run with the VS m/cylinder just for the fact that i have 2 of them + the booster for free.....no complaints from me!
Theres a couple of things i want to sus out before i start pulling it all down

#1 do the existing vh flare nuts (connectors into m/cylinder) adapt straight into the VS cylinder...ie same thread pattern??????

#2 the connections are in different posistions when comparing the 2 m/cylinders. i have labled which line is which on the VH one. i imagine the larger nut on the VS one is the rear brake connection???? correct me if im wrong or retarded!
the smaller nut connection (top right) and the blanked off nut (bottom right) i believe are the front brake line connections???? which is left brake and right brake???
pics below

[markovr]

here is my vh with the vt conversion showing the lines ....you need adapters to fit it .....front original 2 lines go into the back of the vt master and your rear goes to the front...works a treat

[mr j-man]

here is my vh with the vt conversion showing the lines ....you need adapters to fit it .....front original 2 lines go into the back of the vt master and your rear goes to the front...works a treat

hey mate where did u get the adapters from?? im in bris too and was hoping there is someone around that has them off the shelf, ive tried multiple brake shops and they look at me thinkin im like a f#@kin retard and they have no idea what im wanting! even with me showing pics and bringing in the m/cylinders!!
the only place that knew what i was needing and can get em was pirtek!

[mr j-man]

ok so ive bled all lines to each calliper! in correct order as per specs

the front left which is connected to the top right port connection is locking the the pads to the disc!
is there something i have missed??

the new (vs m/cylinder) had a blanked of nut on the bottom left (as per photo above).
so this makes me think that the top left port connection was feeding the 2 front callipers (when it was running on the vs) ??? is this correct??
what is needed to do to release the pressure from the front left brake connected to the top left port??
got me stumped

[markovr]

are you sure the cylinder you are using is off a vs and not a vt as the front pushrod length is too long for a vt cylinder on a vs booster? If it is it will probably not let the brakes release when you take your foot off the pedal.
the ports for the front lines dont really matter which side they go to. The original cylinder must have been on a abs car as they use only 2 lines to feed from the cylinder to the abs unit and the lines from the wheels connect at the abs unit.
My adapters came from race brakes in sydney but they were not cheap...22 each.

[mr j-man]

ok so i sussed it out as to why the front left locked up! for some reason there was an air pocket/bubble in the brake itself and wasnt releaseing. i just removed the caliper, used the pad spreading tool diconnected the solid line from the m/cylider and compressed it and allowed for the fluid to come out from the top of the brake line, re-attached then rebled the line....now its all good!

took the car for a quick test and f__k me what a difference straight up, i dont know y i didnt do this earlier, next weekend the new slotted rotors are goin on with a fresh set of anchors all round.
highly reccomended to anyone whos thinkin of doin the same