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Thread: Burnt out valve

  1. #1
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    Vs statesman 5ltr

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    Default Burnt out valve

    Does any1 know anything bout valves on a vc

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    They are round on the end, and most commonly found in the cylinder head. whats more to know.

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    Ok cool are they easy to fix what am I looking at for price and will I need new gaskets??

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    vkberlina's Avatar
    vkberlina is offline VK Madman
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    You will need a VRS kit + vales, seats is worn, maybe springs, collets, retainers & shims

    whats the problem?

    Scott


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    A easy way to solve your problem is to get an exchange reco head and all you'll need is a head gasket.Have U done a comp test yet?

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    Quote Originally Posted by commy vk View Post
    A easy way to solve your problem is to get an exchange reco head and all you'll need is a head gasket.Have U done a comp test yet?
    So what do you do for the thermostat, exhast manifold gaskets?
    Better off buying a VRS kit and chucking the stemseals?

    I do agree esp for the inexperienced an exchange head is the way to go, dont forget to use the holden threat sealant on the bolts so they dont rust in


    Scott


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    Quote Originally Posted by vkberlina View Post
    So what do you do for the thermostat, exhast manifold gaskets?
    Better off buying a VRS kit and chucking the stemseals?

    I do agree esp for the inexperienced an exchange head is the way to go, dont forget to use the holden threat sealant on the bolts so they dont rust in


    Scott
    I wish mine was as simple as just a vrs kit but after I got my stem seals changed the smoke became worse than ever,so that's what I did and the problem is fixed.I suppose it all depends on the amount of time someone has to dismantle a head clean it up have it tested and machined.Not only that but how many ppl have got their worshop set up for such an operation?So yeah I'll take the easy way out (changeover) thanks very much.

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    ari666's Avatar
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    I thought home headjobs with lapping paste went out when unleaded fuel appeared.
    What was the purpose of the lead in super? If you want it to work and dont want to buggerise around for days get a reco head

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    Fit new valves and seats to a head without lapping them in and perform a leakdown test, it will dribble like an incontinant 90yearold woman.

    pretty much all valves should be lapped in,, the last head i did I got lazyand put an old cotton buff ball into my cordless drill and on a low speed when nuts, you have to keep stopping and check for correct lapping but its pretty quick and easy

    Scott


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    Quote Originally Posted by ari666 View Post
    mate. lapping paste was useless even when there WAS lead in fuel.

    you ever done it???? tallllk about a waste of your life. my god.
    it worked on my old 202
    Had a couple of leaking/burnout valves. I stuck the valve in the end of a reversable drill, some valve grinding paste on the seat and off I went.
    tipped fuel down the inlet to check for leaks and it was sorted. Engine ran puurfect. I know it's a rough as guts method, and I don't necessarily recommend it but I had no plans of hanging onto the engine for a long time, so thought I'd have nothing to lose.

    but the OP seems to have deeper problems. If it's blowing smoke after fitting valve stem seals, then sound like he's got valve guide problems

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    Quote Originally Posted by the_boozer View Post
    I thought home headjobs with lapping paste went out when unleaded fuel appeared.
    What was the purpose of the lead in super? If you want it to work and dont want to buggerise around for days get a reco head
    I think the purpose of having the lead in the old super grade petrol was to cushion the valve and seat so they don't melt.I could be wrong and someone might correct me on this,maybe someone who works on them for a living.Cheers....Merry X mas.

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    My oldman don't like spending money yes I've also wasted days of my life doing it, I don't even think a car yard would bother doing it.
    In my case the guides weren't too bad but the head didn't last a year . Maybe when old blokes rebuilt grey motors every 4 months it was the done thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darren_L View Post
    I stuck the valve in the end of a reversable drill,
    CHEATER!!!! lol,

    anyway back on topic, pretty much any time i touch an unknown head i send it to get the valves ground and seats re-cut. its not that $$ think 400 bucks for a pair of V8's inc decking and hot tanking. you may have to shim up the springs after, depending on how screwed the seats are.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the_boozer View Post
    My oldman don't like spending money yes I've also wasted days of my life doing it, I don't even think a car yard would bother doing it.
    In my case the guides weren't too bad but the head didn't last a year . Maybe when old blokes rebuilt grey motors every 4 months it was the done thing.
    LOL yep in the good old days we could just get away with a new set of stem seals.
    Oh I can just smell the old Super grade petrol...AHHH
    Can anybody else remember it??

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    Quote Originally Posted by commy vk View Post
    LOL yep in the good old days we could just get away with a new set of stem seals.
    Oh I can just smell the old Super grade petrol...AHHH
    Can anybody else remember it??
    Sadly yes - used to fill my first VH (253!!!) with it......

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    Quote Originally Posted by commy vk View Post
    LOL yep in the good old days we could just get away with a new set of stem seals.
    Oh I can just smell the old Super grade petrol...AHHH
    Can anybody else remember it??
    Mmmm yes the grey tailpipes

    Scott


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