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VK - possible alternator problem

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Ozgirl

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VK executive sedan - EFI. About 18 months ago I had to get a new alternator. I am a single mum on a pension so bought one from the wreckers. Took it to an auto electrician who replaced the regulator (regulator on outside) and no problems til recently. Battery started undercharging, lights dimmed etc. It killed my battery, a friend gave me an almost new one, was fine for a week, now same problems. If it is my alternator, can I use one from my old EA Falcon? Auto electrician said no 18 months ago, but I didn't ask why. I have a "spare" connection hanging off the wiring to/from the alternator, but there are two connections already on the alternator. An auto electrician tested both battery and alternator and said both were charging (he did the test while revving it - doesn't sound right to me). He also said he didn't know what the extra lead was but as there were two connected, no worries.

Well as I am living close to the bone, week to week, it is a major worry to me. Any clues? Can I really NOT use an alternator from another car? Another alternative is one from my daughter's car, an old 3 cyl Suzuki about the same vintage as the VK.

I have a mechanic friend who can swap alternators for me, whereas I can't afford an auto electrician. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

The old alternator I got rid of 18 months ago had a Holden label on it. I can't remember if it was the Bosch - 45 amps, or the Hitachi 60-70 amps.
 

NORTI

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hhmm we lead such similar lives! lol Im having power prob with my VKC, prob alt too...

As for alt... being 2nd hand prob is the regulator again. You can buy just regulators new from auto stores & arent too dear, VN one only cost me $25.

If ya handy you could try removing the brushes from regulator from the suzuki, & see if they are the same as inside the VK...

D.
 

Demons1964

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Symptoms do seem to indicate the alternator is on the way out. The fact you've got a relativery new regulator and new battery support that. So either you've developed a current leak very recently (unlikely and a pain to track down) or the alternator from the wreckers is cactus (likely). Just check first to make sure you haven't got any lights staying on in the car (glovebox, bootlight) that may be draining your battery. Preliminary check that you can do on your own is that the alternator belt is tight enough. I'm not sure on your mechanical expertise so I'll run you through it. With the engine off, using your thumb press down midway on the belt that runs from the water pump to the alternator. The deflection should be around 12-15mm. If that checks out ok, next up are electrical checks with a multimeter - the alternator should be putting out a bit over 14V with no accessories on.

But given you're on a strict budget it doesn't sound like you have a multimeter and can't afford an autoelec. What town/city/suburb do you live in? I'm sure there's a member on here who'd be willing to help you out. You never know, they may even have a spare alternator floating about and it's a simple job to replace it.

By the way even if it did fit, the 3 cyl suzuki alternator would never be able to recharge your battery with the ampage required for the ignition on the 6 cylinder. Maybe someone else with Ford experience can confirm if the Falcon alternator is viable in the VK, but I doubt it.

Mark.
 

fitykemp

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i have a spare alternator from a VH 5.0l, id say it would prob be the same? i know it works but not sure for how much longer. Brushes in the regulator look fine. Where abouts are you located?
 
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Ozgirl

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Thanks for all the replies. Today I had to make a trip to Newcastle (I live on the Central Coast, NSW). Trip up was great, the battery seemed be charging well, even when stopped at lights, using indicators, occasional wipers use etc - typical false sense of security... Got 1/3 way home and stopped for fuel. Car wouldn't start. Very busy servo, attendants couldn't help, asked almost every person that came in over the next nearly 2 hours if they had jumper leads, not a single person had them, or at least wanted to admit to it.... I had a car full of kids, one disabled, plus one tyre went flat while I sat there! Someone changed the tyre for me - my jack is one that you poke through a hole and has bamboozled most people who try to use it. A mechanic's apprentice eventually was convinced to bring over a portable jump start kit from his place of work which didn't work - he then admitted it wasn't a great one. Was at the servo long enough to watch the petrol price go up 9 cents a litre :yeah:

Then I noticed an auto electrician I hadn't seen, across the highway! I am not sure if this is divine intervention or not (i.e. car stops today with what now looked like broken starter motor just as I was about to fork out for second hand alternator) but the guy came over with his van and testing gear etc and said starter motor is cactus. After hitting it with a jemmy and hammer while using an ignition attached to the starter motor after each hit, it eventually started but he said don't turn it off til I get home as it was probably last time it would ever start. So, I bought a starter motor on the way home from the wreckers for $60, my mechanic friend will put it in first thing in the morning and hopefully all systems go. He is (like a lot of other mechanics I have spoken to) not totally sure about electrical things so couldn't say whether the alternator was also dead. Can a crook starter motor cause same symptoms as a dying alternator? e.g. headlights very dim, battery power goes way down with use of blinkers, headlights etc?

So I don't think I can call this thread closed just yet but I certainly do hope it is just the starter motor. When I get the car home I will check the belts etc. There are no lights staying on anywhere either. The belts actually look like they are all originals as well. Once again, thanks everyone. I will give you feedback when I know more.
 

gd81

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Best recomendation I ever got for an alternator from an auto elec was to to rebuild an old bosch 45 amp unit with the internals from a vn 85 amp unit.
It works an absolute treat in my rally car, can have High beams and spot lights on at idle and you can't notice it dim at all, Have got an old battery in car but the alternator has kept it going. My car has efi, wich has 2 elec fuel pumps plus injectors etc going at idle as well.
What you do is take the pully,fan and front mount bracket form 45 amp unit, scrap rest. then dismantle vn unit throw away pully,fan and front mouint braket, keep every thing else including screws as they are longer. now put it back together using the other bits you kept form the old alternator.
Lastly you need to grab the connector from a vn, or a new injector plug to plug the light wire into the alternator, there are 2 wires out of VN reg, one marked L goes to the dash light, same wire as old unit, the other marked S goes to the battery + terminal. don't cheat on this run it to the battery as it is a senser wire that will stop the alternator causing high volt spikes if the main output wire has a dodgy connection.
 
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