Hi,
I would like to hear from people working on their 308's removing timing chains. I want to replace my lifters, cam and timing chain.
What I'd like to know is do I need to take off the sump, or can the timing cover slip out with any major headache such as sump removal?
Thanks.
Steve to the rescue again.....
Remove rocker covers
Remove rockers
Remove push rods
Remove alt belt and fan
Remove intake manifold
Take out lifters
Drain coolant
Remove water pump
Remove timing cover
Mark 2 marks on timing chain (1 at bottom of crank cog so as cog and chain meet up again is same place, 1 at top of cam cog so cog and chain meet up again.)
Undo bolts holding timing chain cogs on and remove cogs
Wriggle cam out
Now to replace:
Grease new cam with assembly grease (all lobes and bearing contacts)
Push in turning as you go
Put cogs and chain on (dial cam in while doing this. instructons on this should be in box with cam)
Grease lifters and put in
Use a new seal and bolt timing cover back on
Use new seal on the water pump and replace
Use new seal on intake manifold and replace
Put push rods in
Bolt rockers back on and torque up (dont know exact torque sorry)
Replace belts and fan
Turn engine over by hand to check every thing moving ok
Bolt rocker covers back on
Re-time ignition timing (it will have been stuffed when the cam was pulled out and replaced
**Remember to grease everything**
Every thing should be honkey dorey now but anyone else feel free to add anything ive missed.
Hope this helps you,
Steve
Thanks for that. So I don't need to remove the sump? Would I need to remove the radiator? This is a black 308 so if yours is a red it might be different.
The motor is in the car right?
Yes it is.
Yes remove radiator and grill first. It can definatly be done in a day, I have done to a gen 3 ute: a cam swap, built heads and installed, pod filter, removed and had a diff rebuilt then replaced and then the boss tuned it all in one day.
So yes it can be done.
remove distributor.
drain coolant first.
ensure that no flakey bits or bits of manifold gasket get into the sump via the drain holes in the lifter valley, or you'll have oil pressure issues like a mate of mine did in his VN SS.
Nothing slows down a job better than drinking booze. Trust me. Always have the radio going.Originally Posted by Goon
Cheers again for all the info. I've been fiddling with my 253 and I think I will need to undo the front two sump bolts as it looks to be bolted to the timing case, but not remove the whole sump.Originally Posted by slundy
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to to the job properly u need to drop the sump as the timing cover seal has 2 feet which slide in-between the sump and block, if its not done properly u will have oil leaking from there and u will have to redo sump and timing seals again which is not funtrust me lol also make sure the timing cover is sealed properly or u will turn ur oil white lol
Originally Posted by hemipoweredvk
Yeah true, it needs to be re sealed. My mate when he has worked on his (when doing the motor in-car) has put a line of silastic or auto silicon to seal the front sump to block. He said it has worked ok.
The reason I am doing this is because my lifters are bloody noisy, especially when the motor is cold. It seems to be getting worse. I figure I'd replace my cam and chain as well as these are parts which would be worn too with age. The bottom end is not bad. No smoke, good pistons. The heads are good too.