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Thread: Painting products.

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    Goon's Avatar
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    Default Painting products.

    Hey all

    Just asking on the cheapet and long lasting paint around to buy from either one of these 3 locations

    Superchape, Repco & Autobarn

    Engine paint ?
    Brake paint?
    Interior paint?

    ps. I Already have my car body & underbody paints
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

  2. #2
    electric_monk Guest

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    VHT vinyl dye for interior, the surfaces need to be very clean though otherwise the finish won't be too great. I've had my interior done for over 4 months now and still looks like when it was first done. Pretty long lasting. Although can't say the same about for the door cards which are starting to show a spot or two now :b: Available from repco for around $16 took two cans to do the dash.

    How much did you get your car body & underbody paints for?

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    I got the body paint for 120 at Supercheap, the hoods been done so far it looks good. I'll post a pic soon..

    I brought the underbody paint from Repco the KMH matt black stuff for $60.

    Don't forget paint thinner for ya paint, about $ 30 ? at supercheap
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    For exterior Paints I can highly recommend Spies Hecker colour & Upol clear

    For pressure pack stuff for engine paint I can recommend the VHT stuff I have had excellent results. I used the VHT 1500degF heat proof paint on my exhaust with excellent results, it just took heaps to cover it properly.

    I have even used the elcheapo $2.50 a can pressure pack enamel on my brake rotors with great success, as long as you prep the surface well it works & lasts well.

    Im planning on respraying all my dash parts and im planing on using exterior acrylic. For painting vynals etc use the propert vynal dyes they work vell and wont rub off.

    cheers
    Scott


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    Quote Originally Posted by vkberlina
    For pressure pack stuff for engine paint I can recommend the VHT stuff I have had excellent results. I used the VHT 1500degF heat proof paint on my exhaust with excellent results, it just took heaps to cover it properly.
    I was going to get the VHT flame proof stuff and use primer as well. How many cans of top coat will I need to do both extractors?

    Do you think the K&H stuff is as good as VHT? Well ones American and the other is Australian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goon
    I got the body paint for 120 at Supercheap, the hoods been done so far it looks good. I'll post a pic soon..

    Don't forget paint thinner for ya paint, about $ 30 ? at supercheap
    How many litres for 120 bucks? Is it metallic or just plain?

    $30 for thinners? That seems heaps. I haven't checked out prices myself but it seems a lot.

    Have you got a air compressor and gun?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zoist
    I was going to get the VHT flame proof stuff and use primer as well. How many cans of top coat will I need to do both extractors?

    Do you think the K&H stuff is as good as VHT? Well ones American and the other is Australian.
    I have used a couple of K & H products when in a fix and havent had any problems.

    I used 8 cans of heat proof paint to paint my exhaust, I bought a box of cans I would say 2 cans for your headers, Give all the welds a really good clean up with a wire brush etc
    When you begin painting give all the welds & joins a couple of coats first then do a couple of light fill in coats over the entire header. The dry light coats will help prevent any oil or silicon boils.
    Pay particular attention to areas you will see including all top edges, so add a couple of extra coats there.
    When installing them wrap them in the thick microwave glad wrap so they dont get scratched or damaged.

    cheers
    Scott


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    8 cans?! I was thinking I could get away with a can of primer and a top coat. These cans are over $15 from memory, maybe a lot more. Can't remember. I was going to use the aluminium as a top coat as a colour would make it look stupid IMO. Thanks for those tips Scott.

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    Oh, another thing Scott. Does the paint take a while to cure? You said about it getting scratched... Will the coating harden more after it has been cooked a bit?

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    it does harden but it marks easy, the paint has a high percentage of talc which helps its heat properties amoung other ingredients. The down side is it marks easily.
    I found my best results was to really wet up the final coat when applying it, not to the point it runs but close to that point.

    also hang the headers up when your painting them, I hang mine from the roof of the shed.

    cheers
    Scott


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    I was thinking of hanging mine from underneath the balcony in the back yard I just need a good day without wind. Thanks for the tips.

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    Yeah mate i paid 120 for a hot plain colour, arylic and 4L, the same for the under body but half the price.

    Have you got a air compressor and gun? yes < - Price on this i wouldnt know, as i brought mine at mates rates 2 years ago

    Ps. what paint product gives ur paint the clear shine? gloss? "over body paint" or alot of wax?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    I had a 2.5hp 40 litre air compressor. I had it for a year and got a replacement through KMart because it refused to fill up one day. Then last week it was leaking oil out of the cylinder so I ended up taking the crap back to Kmart and got a refund. Not bad getting a refund after a year of use!

    I thought next time I get one, I am going to spend 500 bucks on a trade quality belt drive one, not these cheap arse 150 buck ones. Too many headaches.

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    The guns another story, i'm on my 2nd one so far u can pay a good price and either get a crap one or a good one....

    I've also got a drill for the compressor, though ive had to fix it 2 times.. i love the nosie! and taking the tyers off without breaking a sweat :P
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie-b View Post
    well i think a "headjob" would be better than stroking it?

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    As for interior paint, for all the vinyls, and plastics for that matter, use VHT vinyl dye. Don't use the Septone crap from supercheap, as it turns out much worse, and needs more coats. The VHT only costs like 3 bucks a can extra anyway.

    I know this from experience, not just someone telling me that septone is crap.

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    electric_monk Guest

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    VHT vinyl dye 3 bucks a can? Where do you buy it for that price? Bloody repco charge around 20 bucks a can

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    not 3 bucks a can, 3 bucks more per can than the septone shit, i got them for $16 per can from Autobarn.

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    also with the hard plastic interior parts you need to use plastic primer first. If you don't the vinyl dye won't stick and can scratch off easy. the vinyl dye is only good for soft vinyl.
    Cheers Damien"SL/ENUT" Smith, The SL/E Fanatic!
    A lucky owner of 2 SL/E Commodores, a rare VB SL/E and a 2 tone VC SL/E. Just need a VH SL/E and have the set!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goon
    The guns another story, i'm on my 2nd one so far u can pay a good price and either get a crap one or a good one....

    I've also got a drill for the compressor, though ive had to fix it 2 times.. i love the nosie! and taking the tyers off without breaking a sweat :P
    It's funny because now that my tank has gone, I miss it!

    All I have now is a 20 metre hose, impact ratchet/rattle gun, chuckless drill, body saw, nibbler and a heap of other tools but no tank.

    I tell you what, these air nibblers are gold when you want to cut out sheet metal like parcel shelf metal and stuff. Beats a jigsaw. And the chuckless drill is good because of it's small size. Oh yeah the rattle gun is great for removing nuts. I actually used it on the steering wheel nut! They can be buggers to get off and put it back on with the rattle gun and it's a tight fit again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slim
    I thought next time I get one, I am going to spend 500 bucks on a trade quality belt drive one, not these cheap arse 150 buck ones.
    My father-in-law was in charge of the paint shop at the Nissan factory in Dandenong in the '80s so knew everything there was to know about auto painting. Anyway, his son wanted to paint cars as a young buck so his old man bought him a top quality belt-driven compressor and spray equipment. As per most adolescents that phase passed and he never painted a car. So 20 years later when my father-in-law has moved into a retirement home all this "new" spray equipment becomes my wife's (read: mine ). The compressor still works like new but all it does now is inflate the tyres. Sadly underutilised. I do need to buy a few tools like a nibbler and a rattle gun - any idea on prices?

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    I have bought my tools of ebay. I did buy a nibbler off a guy $80 and it lasted about 5 minutes until it was starting to go faulty and I was damn annoyed and ended up getting a full refund through the Paypal protection system. Then I bought a nibbler off Air Tools WA. This cost $95 and it's absolute gold quality.
    Don't buy any nibblers that look like this with the large nut near the head:


    That large nut loosens and the head ends up spinning. That's a similar one I got a refund on. It's sitting in a box now as a useless piece of junk.

    The rattle guns are $40+, plenty on ebay. I bought mine for about $50. It works well but not pro quality of course.

    If you are unsure, I would go to a local shop and spend a bit more. That way you can easily get a refund/exhange and probably better quality tools.

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    ok i need some help... i sprayed the door trims with that VHT vinyl dye but it chips off too easily.. what kind of sealant should i use? or a clear coat over the top???

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    if you have the harder plastic door trim, you just need to do a very good prep job, and you could use a clear coat on the top, but it's the sort of thing that won't last forever, no matter how many times people tell you it does, some are lucky with it, some aren't, but there are way to ensure it lasts for a while.

    The best piece of advice i can give, BE CAREFUL, ofcourse it'll chip off if you bump and scratch it.

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    If its hard plastic you need to put plastic primer on first.
    Cheers Damien"SL/ENUT" Smith, The SL/E Fanatic!
    A lucky owner of 2 SL/E Commodores, a rare VB SL/E and a 2 tone VC SL/E. Just need a VH SL/E and have the set!

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