vr engine in a vh?

[markovr]

Just wondering if anyone has put a v6 and gearbox out of a vr into a vh without too many major modifications?
Ive heard the k frame out of a vn/r/s will bolt straight up tp a vh...is that true?
I noticed a vk on ebay with one in it

[SL/ENUT]

the VN/VP K frames bolt up, the VR/VS are different. Its best to use a VN whole front end, the k frame and struts.

[darkmoon]

Have been consulting a few people in the know and I have been advised to use the whole front end. Wheel/axle assembly aswell as the struts out of the later model car. The VK front end apparently doesn't have enough clearance for the V6 motor and you cant shave the oil pan because its a structural part of the engine. I have been investigating these thing as Iplan to do this to my VK with a VS ecotec engine.
This is all speculation and the best way to find out the nigglies is to talk to some one who has successfully done it.
Kain

[hemipoweredvk]

speak to v6 conversions, but when i spoke to them they said just use a vn\p k frame and then all i needed was the modded wiring loom, modded tailshaft comprised of the t5\700 front yoke and vk rear. its an easy swap and well worth it but may i suggest using a vp v6 with the vp 4l60 then u can just use a t350\400 speedo cable, instead of electronic and needing a pulse converter as these boxes r $350 compaired to a $50 cable

[Aurc_2]

I herd the same thing about the tailshaft from v6 conversions and its not true unbolted my tailshaft at the center bearing, went to bolt the vk one on and didnt fit
as for the vp 4L60 it still needs the 2 pulse converter to use overdrive properly

[markovr]

I have heard of a drive setup that you can get that has a cable drive outlet for a cable speedo and a pulse converter as well so everything will fit in that department.

[Aurc_2]

yeah
the cheapest one ive found was from kalmaker for about $125 and you just wire up the two pulse signal straight to the brown/yellow wire at the dash labled 2 pulses, that runs straight back to the ecu

[Doctor Bob]

if you use a vh sle dash with the speed sensor in it you can run the analog signal from that through a convertor to produce the desired digital signal for the ECM
Rob

[hemipoweredvk]

I herd the same thing about the tailshaft from v6 conversions and its not true unbolted my tailshaft at the center bearing, went to bolt the vk one on and didnt fit
as for the vp 4L60 it still needs the 2 pulse converter to use overdrive properly

no u just cant join the two at the centre bearing lol u need to use the t700 front yoke and have the vk tail shaft front half shortend to fit all up not very expencive round the $130 mark with a set of uni's installed at same time.


use a t400 manual speedo cable and with the modded wiring loom there should be a plug already wired for the torque converter lock-up so it works as its suppose to be.
other than that The four pin connector (only has three pins fitted) has two pins for the lock up torque converter, one has +12 volts supplied to it when the ignition is on. The other is grounded by the ECM to lock the torque converter.
The third pin is for the transmission 4th gear / overtemperature signal. If the transmission is in 4th gear and over a certain temperature (very hot) this pin will be connected to ground.
If you are not using an ECM, you can drop the pan off the transmission and bypass the temperature switch. This pin will then be grounded when the transmission is in 4th gear and can be used to control the torque converter clutch via a switch in the cabin.
I have heard of other setups that use micro-switches on the accelerator and wired into the brake light switch also. It is not desirable to have the torque converter locked under closed throttle, more than about 60 percent throttle or when braking. It should also only be locked above certain road speeds, this is why using the 4th gear switch is a convenient solution. The hydraulic system in the transmission makes it impossible for the torque converter to lock in 1st gear. Locking the torque converter reduces engine RPM, improves economy and reduces heat in the transmission.
You can use a toggle switch to switch the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) on and off, but you will have to use it with some level of discretion. If you leave it turned on the TCC will lock whenever the transmission is in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. Locking the TCC at low RPM and low speed almost stalls the engine. You really only want it locked once you are cruising above about 80 km/hr. Downshifts are also very rough if you don't unlock it before you give it a bootfull.

You could hook a light up to the 4th gear/overtemp pin, but I wouldn't bother, It will probably only come on on a hot day if you are towing a caravan. Locking the TCC whenever possible means the transmission won't get hot anyway.

The connector on the transmission has three pins (four holes but only three pins) The TCC pins are the ones towards the outside of the transmission. The front one (pin A) is +12 volts and the rear one (pin D) is chassis ground. You can either supply 12 volts to pin A and switch the ground to pin D or ground pin D (connect to a bolt on the body of the car somewhere) and then take +12 volts (only with ignition on) via a switch to pin A. It only draws about half an Amp.

The 4th gear/overtemp signal (pin B) is the front pin toward the centre of the transmission. This gets connected to ground inside the transmission when transmission fluid temp gets over 130 deg C in 4th gear.

The VN/VP ECMs control the TCC, it will lock under the following conditions:
Vehicle speed above 72 km/hr.
Engine temp above 44 deg C.
Throttle position above 4 percent and below about 50 percent (varies with vehicle speed).

If the TV cable is adjusted correctly, the TCC will unlock at a throttle position of about 10 percent less than the kickdown point. With a TH700 kickdown is determined by vehicle speed and throttle position, not only at full throttle like the electric kickdown trimatic.
If the ECM receives the 4th gear/overtemp signal, The speed input and engine temperature are disregarded. The TCC will lock once 4th gear is engaged, whenever the throttle is above 4 percent open. This reduces the amount of heat produced in the transmission, to allow it to cool down. It will not unlock before a 4th to 3rd kickdown.

[darkmoon]

I little off topic but is there components available to fit a VL Calais intrument panel to a EFI VK? Been pulling my hair out
Kain

[3800VH]

Im just going to go with a VDO speedo gauge. its $360

[Aurc_2]

[QUOTE=hemipoweredvk]no u just cant join the two at the centre bearing lol u need to use the t700 front yoke and have the vk tail shaft front half shortend to fit


No You can't just unbolt them and swap the two at the center bearing
but thats what the "Experts" at V6 Conversions told me when i rang them lol

his exact words were "its as simple as unbolting the allen keys at the center bearing and changeing over the rear section" Cant get further from the mark than that, but ive called all the "Experts" and the only one that was all that helpful was kalmaker

p.s. Why would you bother useing the vk tailshaft with the vn yoke, when you can get the vn one shortened and it wont snap on you lol

[hemipoweredvk]

[QUOTE=Aurc_2]

no u just cant join the two at the centre bearing lol u need to use the t700 front yoke and have the vk tail shaft front half shortend to fit


No You can't
but thats what the "Experts" at V6 Conversions told me when i rang them lol

his exact words were "its as simple as unbolting the allen keys at the center bearing and changeing over the rear section" Cant get further from the mark than that, but ive called all the "Experts" and the only one that was all that helpful was kalmaker

p.s. Why would you bother useing the vk tailshaft with the vn yoke, when you can get the vn one shortened and it wont snap on you lol

neva said to unbolt at allen keys (as i said "u cant just join the 2 together"). u need to cut both shafts and have the t700 front yoke welded onto the shaft ur going to use with a sals rear end and shortened to the correct lenght. a machine shop will charge u around $130 including uni's and if u pay anymore than that id seriously ask why?

i can show reciepts from all the modded shafts i have do over the years, the trimatic to 9in converted shaft, t400 to 9in, t700 to 9in, toploader to dana, t350 to sals and b\w.

im not gloating just every dam post i have done someone has had ago. i dont speak from what i hear i speak from experience

[Aurc_2]

[QUOTE=hemipoweredvk]

im not gloating just every dam post i have done someone has had ago. i dont speak from what i hear i speak from experience

Im Not haveing a go at you, im telling you thats what was said to me on the phone by them,

as for the shortening, i done the conversion a while ago and the best setup i could find was to shorten the rear section of the vn shaft by 2" as the frount section is already spot on an this cost about the same as yours

anyway this Thread isnt about arguing its about shareing the info we know and thats all im trying to do

[darkmoon]

guys ...guys wheeew. lol j/k
I have to thank you 2 tho, has answered some questions

[bacon-n-eggs]

Heres a link to another forum, but it has exact details if you want them buddy...

http://forum.****************.com.au...light=V6+VB-VL

[bacon-n-eggs]

whoops, wont work. i'll pm ya orite dude

[darkmoon]

whoops, wont work. i'll pm ya orite dude

Appreciate the effort mate but I did what you said in the PM and it still wont work for me. Maybe a java thing i dont know. I am chasing a VK body. I would prefer a Calais with interior in tact if possible, it doesn't need to be running as long as the chassis and subframe is straight. Panelling would be nice straight but its not a real concern. Anyone PM me or mail me at santhera@optusnet.com.au
Kain